[Mediahound]

Yeah, raising the tubes up definitely makes the chassis less hot. 

 

[zive]

  ...
1) Provide airflow under the unit. I'm using Herbie's Big Tall Tenderfoot - $50 for three, $66 for four.
...
 
 

I would recommend picking up a four pack of Vibrapods (model 2) from Amazon. At $24 for a four pack they are much less expensive and based on others' reviews provide comparable vibration/clearance benefits. If you want to step up from there (literally in terms of clearance) you can always add in the Vibrapod cones. A set of cones and pods can be had for less than the cost of four "Tenderfeet".
 
Cheers.

 

[Mediahound]

  I would recommend picking up a four pack of Vibrapods (model 2) from Amazon. At $24 for a four pack they are much less expensive and based on others' reviews provide comparable vibration/clearance benefits. If you want to step up from there (literally in terms of clearance) you can always add in the Vibrapod cones. A set of cones and pods can be had for less than the cost of four "Tenderfeet".
 
Cheers.

Do you remove the stock feet first and then put those on, or do they sit over the stock feet?

 

[FLTWS]

 
Do you remove the stock feet first and then put those on, or do they sit over the stock feet?

 
I'm using the tall tenderfeet, not for vibration control but just to get more air circulation under the unit and in conjunction with tube lifters and air conditioning I figure heat dissipation will be adequate as it appears that the entire chassis acts like a giant heat sink, by design, to expose a larger metal surface to the surrounding air instead of just the usual heat sinks of any solid state devices inside the case. I used a bit of double sided scotch tape on each one and placed them next to but inside of the stock feet.
 
I wasn't certain if these stock feet were sheet metal screws or nuts with bolts and washers on the inside that could go rattling around if unscrewed. Usually not a good thing to have loose metal pieces parts rolling around and coming to rest against electrically live circuitry when the power switch is thrown on. I also didn't want to have to remove the screws from the back panel to disassemble the unit if the screws served some additional purpose other than to just hold on the feet, unlikely, but why screw with fate!
 
The tape holds very well and I've lifted (not slid) and moved the unit many times without a foot dropping off. The material used in the tenderfoot is alleged to not mar or stick permanently to any metal finish. Some alcohol should remove any tape residue if I ever needed to, if not, a drop of acetone should do the trick. 
 
YMMV

 

[zive]

Yes, that's what I did. I saved the screws and feet in a separate bag and used the resulting holes as a guide for where to apply the new feet.
 
Sonically I noticed the greatest difference with these on my turntable. That said, having bought socket savers to cool my tubes I wanted to cool the rest of my MJ2 so I picked up another pair of the MJ2 mostly for thermal reasons (reducing vibration when walking around couldn't hurt either).
 
I hope that helps. 

 

[zive]

While on the topic of MJ2 accessories I thought I would mention a storage option I have enjoyed for my MJ2 tubes. The Pelican 1120 case is a nearly bulletproof way of organizing and storing up to four sets of tubes. The cases are pretty cheap and match well with those who already own LCD series headphones from Audeze. 
 
Cheers.
 

 

[FLTWS]

  While on the topic of MJ2 accessories I thought I would mention a storage option I have enjoyed for my MJ2 tubes. The Pelican 1120 case is a nearly bulletproof way of organizing and storing up to four sets of tubes. The cases are pretty cheap and match well with those who already own LCD series headphones from Audeze. 
 
Cheers.
 

 
 
An elegant solution.

 

[FLTWS]

Well, here's a new twist:
 
As previously stated I use Tall Tenderfeet and Tube Lifters with the MJ2.
 
I've been evaluating a pair of HD800's the past week with the stock SE cable, running Amperex 7308 Gold Pins for the entire time until this past Sunday when I switched to LISST's at the end of the day for the Monday session, and burned them in for 24 hours. When I removed the 7308's I also pulled the tube lifters and didn't use them with the LISST's which ran as hot as the 7308's both to the touch directly, and the volume knob.
 
I shipped the 800 back Tuesday and for giggles and kicks I pulled the LISST's and put in a new pair of Telefunken E88C/6922 "without" the tube lifters. I've had them burning in all day and I swear they are much cooler than either the 7308's (the grill, not the tube itself) or LISST's to the touch. I don't understand how that might be and I will be checking in the future as I roll in and roll out (just ordered some difference 6922 family types to play with). Has anyone ever noticed different amounts of heat being generated depending on the tube type? Especially given that I removed the tube lifters this result seems strange and counter intuitive.

 

[rnros]

Has anyone ever noticed different amounts of heat being generated depending on the tube type? Especially given that I removed the tube lifters this result seems strange and counter intuitive.

Yes, I have. Never paid much attention to it since it was always within the range of reasonable. (Can't say that it was any particular tube type.)
 
However, more recently I had a pair of NOS on the burn and the increase in temperature was enough that I paid attention to it. It did settle down to a normal range again, and I since I didn't note it in my tube burn log, I don't recall which tube it was. (I play with a lot of different tube pairs.) Although can't say I was surprised since I have noted output voltage fluctuations on some pairs during the initial burn (~50hrs).
 
Your post caught my attention since at the moment I'm listening to a pair with only a few hours on them and they are running a bit hot! But they sound so good...Maybe it's the extra heat ).
Haven't found rhyme or reason to the occurrence yet, although I can say that none of the tubes I have with substantial hours of use have any noticeable high temperature anomaly.
 
Different tube designations do have slightly different power ratings, even within the same family, but I don't think those numbers are sufficient to cause anything noticeable. Usually my Schiit amps run warm and never hot, so much so that I don't bother with socket savers to raise tubes. (I do use some tubes that do require adapter sockets.)

 

[FLTWS]

Thanks for the feedback mros.

 

[Jiexi]

Is there an easy way to get tube monger socket savers out without having to take off the case of the MJ2?

 

[gto88]

  While on the topic of MJ2 accessories I thought I would mention a storage option I have enjoyed for my MJ2 tubes. The Pelican 1120 case is a nearly bulletproof way of organizing and storing up to four sets of tubes. The cases are pretty cheap and match well with those who already own LCD series headphones from Audeze. 
 
Cheers.
 

Look really nice, did you cut the form for tubes? I don't think it comes pre-cut.
Is it easy to cut to the shape?

 

[Mediahound]

  Is there an easy way to get tube monger socket savers out without having to take off the case of the MJ2?

Easy way? Nope.
 
Some have had success wrapping a wire around it, I've taken packing tape and made a little circle around them adhesive side in, and worked them out that way. It's a PITA though so you are probably better off just leaving them in there and including them whenever you sell the amp to someone. 

 

[bluesaint]

 
Easy way? Nope.
 
Some have had success wrapping a wire around it, I've taken packing tape and made a little circle around them adhesive side in, and worked them out that way. It's a PITA though so you are probably better off just leaving them in there and including them whenever you sell the amp to someone. 

I just use small tweezers and added rubber tip, then fish it out .

 

[zive]

Thanks.
 
It comes with a solid foam block that is perforated into 1cm cubes of foam (Pelican calls it Pick N Pluck foam). All I had to do was arrange the tubes on top of the foam to see which cubes I would need to remove, then I simply plucked out the foam blocks by hand to give me the shapes I needed. All told it took me about 20 minutes to make the shapes, and was very straight-forward.
 
Beside the aesthetics of the pelican case I enjoy the peace of mind knowing that my tubes are well protected and no longer laying around in the loose paper boxes they come shipped in. 
 
I hope that helps, cheers!