Schiit Lyr Tube Rollers
Mar 29, 2016 at 9:49 AM Post #8,776 of 23,494
  I made comments about this guy before. All of his tubes measure "super strong" because he uses the wrong testing parameters. Nobody seems to care... they keep buying his tubes.

Yeah I remember those that's why I decided to ask him.
He could still lie to me ofcourse. But I highly doubt all of his tubes measure > 20mA at normal specification.

His latest response is:
 

NOS = 100% is a physical farctor, so there are no differences possible.
The characteristic curce says what?
Uf = 6,3V; Ug1 = -1,2V; Ua = 100V ;; Ia = 15mA = 100%, S = 12,5mA/V​

 
Which I still don't trust - he won't be getting my money today :D
 
Mar 29, 2016 at 10:10 AM Post #8,778 of 23,494
  I'm confused with all these tube labels. What makes a tube an A-frame tube? Do they necessarily have to be labelled as CCa or will the factory codes/change codes override whatever label we see on the tubes?

A-Frame is tubes with the construction leading up to the getter that looks like the letter A:
 
Something like this
 
___    <--- getter
/ _ \    <- A-Frame
------  <---- mica
 || ||  <- anodes
------ <- mica
l l l l <- pins
 
 
Sample A-Frame: http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/d/9916-1/Siemens+and+Halske+E88CC+Late+1960s+A-Frame+Metal+Stamp+Date+Codes+-+Munich+Germany.jpg
 
CCa is well I've never met a scientific explanation what it is, but they are said and believed to be higher quality version of the standard E88CC, CCa stamp was supposedly designated for the Postal service in Germany, another similar one is BwB was aviation or military.
 
Mar 29, 2016 at 11:10 AM Post #8,779 of 23,494
  I'm confused with all these tube labels. What makes a tube an A-frame tube? Do they necessarily have to be labelled as CCa or will the factory codes/change codes override whatever label we see on the tubes?

Factory and tube type/batch codes override any printing on the tubes... CCa will have the same code as a 6922/E88CC since that is the tube type; it's just been labelled as a CCa because of the way it tests. (Sections that match tightly, strong test results).
 
There are numerous ways of figuring out the manufacturer and which factory a tube was made in, if the printing is rubbed off. (Nipple shape, type of getter, what the supports look like for the getter and if they're stamped with anything, amount of flashing on the top of the tube, what the mica looks like, what the grid looks like, inner construction, shape of the glass, etc).
 
With respect to the A-frame comments above, you'll also see there are various getter shapes (D-shape, O or halo shape in large or small sizes, square, saucer shaped, solid, etc).
 
Once you can label/identify the parts of the tube, and take a close look at some of the popular brands, you'll find it's fairly straightforward. The factories all seemed to have different fonts as well, so even if you have partial codes, you can normally figure things out. The getter shapes also changed with different years... in general, the D or square shapes are oldest, then O shaped, then A frame for the late 60's/70's. This all depends on the manufacturer of course.
 
Russian or chinese tubes are probably the easiest to identify, simply by their nipples on the top. The Russian 6DJ8 equivalents also normally always have saucer getters. And the glass is physically larger than others, usually.
 
Mar 29, 2016 at 11:25 AM Post #8,780 of 23,494
Factory and tube type/batch codes override any printing on the tubes... CCa will have the same code as a 6922/E88CC since that is the tube type; it's just been labelled as a CCa because of the way it tests. (Sections that match tightly, strong test results).
 
There are numerous ways of figuring out the manufacturer and which factory a tube was made in, if the printing is rubbed off. (Nipple shape, type of getter, what the supports look like for the getter and if they're stamped with anything, amount of flashing on the top of the tube, what the mica looks like, what the grid looks like, inner construction, shape of the glass, etc).
 
With respect to the A-frame comments above, you'll also see there are various getter shapes (D-shape, O or halo shape in large or small sizes, square, saucer shaped, solid, etc).
 
Once you can label/identify the parts of the tube, and take a close look at some of the popular brands, you'll find it's fairly straightforward. The factories all seemed to have different fonts as well, so even if you have partial codes, you can normally figure things out. The getter shapes also changed with different years... in general, the D or square shapes are oldest, then O shaped, then A frame for the late 60's/70's. This all depends on the manufacturer of course.
 
Russian or chinese tubes are probably the easiest to identify, simply by their nipples on the top. The Russian 6DJ8 equivalents also normally always have saucer getters. And the glass is physically larger than others, usually.

 


Mike's too humble to admit it but he has his PhD in Tubeology from University of Calgary, Tundra Branch.
Thank you, Doctor.
 
Mar 29, 2016 at 2:52 PM Post #8,782 of 23,494
i'm thinking like around maybe $20-50 vs the ones i've seen for 100 and up


If you are patient you can find a pair of Heerlen, Holland made (designated by a delta or triangle in the code) Philips or Valvo E88CC's. Very musical with a drop-dead gorgeous midrange. You can steal a pair for $50-$75. Most of what you'll find cheaper you won't end up happy with...which will end up costing you money in the long run.
 
Mar 30, 2016 at 1:58 AM Post #8,783 of 23,494
Thanks for the tube code clarifications! That will greatly help in hunting for tubes in the future.
 
Another quick question... I just received my Blackburn Mullards (B4I1 and B5H2) from the Tube Maze seller on eBay. When I plugged it into my Lyr, I tried giving the tubes a tap and there seemed to be some microphonics. Is there a chance of this going away after burn-in? Does this affect the life of my tubes in any way?
 
Mar 30, 2016 at 3:52 AM Post #8,784 of 23,494
Although I was looking for a set of E188CCs to use with my Ether C, I ended up being the lucky buyer for those 75 HGs from Matt. It was always my intention to get HGs eventually, so I'd say it was serendipitous. Looking forward to trying them out! Thanks, tvnosaint billerb1 Guidostrunk!
 
Mar 30, 2016 at 11:41 AM Post #8,785 of 23,494
This might be a deal. It would be worth asking the seller how many hours he has on them or if he has an ability to get you test results. He does say they are quiet. Heck offer $100 and see what happens. I think the seller is a Head-Fi'er (roman410) but I didn't see a post for these in the For Sale Forum. You could try PM'ing him. Check out the ebay listing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-Miniwatt-E188CC-SQ-O-getter-matched-year-pair-tubes-used-/222066744394?hash=item33b4359c4a:g:qiMAAOSwQjNW-Bzs
 
Mar 30, 2016 at 11:49 AM Post #8,786 of 23,494
I use those in nm24 dac. They are beautiful sounding tubes. Very natural but still very heerlen. My favorites to date in the dac. Over the 74 &75 reflektors ,75 voskhods, e88cc from Philips valvo and e188cc from Dario.
 
Mar 30, 2016 at 11:52 AM Post #8,787 of 23,494
Won these bad boys http://www.ebay.com/itm/361520647005 .
Ever since the yellow's discussion and me Listening again to my Red Valvo '62 Heerlen E88CCs vs my Philips E88CC '66 and the valvos blowing them out of the water even tough the Philipses have better matching and are stronger, I decided I want to hear more Valvo tubes - so if I find any deals I'm gonna jump on them :D Will keep you guys posted.. I've accumulated quite a few tubes now, might start selling off my stash in the classifieds soon keep a lookout if you're interested.
 
Mar 30, 2016 at 12:08 PM Post #8,788 of 23,494
Won these bad boys http://www.ebay.com/itm/361520647005 .


Ever since the yellow's discussion and me Listening again to my Red Valvo '62 Heerlen E88CCs vs my Philips E88CC '66 and the valvos blowing them out of the water even tough the Philipses have better matching and are stronger, I decided I want to hear more Valvo tubes - so if I find any deals I'm gonna jump on them :D Will keep you guys posted.. I've accumulated quite a few tubes now, might start selling off my stash in the classifieds soon keep a lookout if you're interested.

 


Just to clarify (and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) Heerlen E88CC's (or E188CC's for that matter) labeled Philips or Valvo are the exact same tube. Of course there will be the usual unique sound differences from tube to tube (and certainly version and date differences) as there would be when you would compare Philips pairs vs Philips pairs or Valvo pairs vs Valvo pairs.
If you are intent on seeing the Valvo print on your tube and you want the Heerlen version, make sure you check the code for the delta symbol. Hamburg Valvos are designated with a "D" code.
 
Mar 30, 2016 at 12:33 PM Post #8,789 of 23,494
Won these bad boys http://www.ebay.com/itm/361520647005 .




Ever since the yellow's discussion and me Listening again to my Red Valvo '62 Heerlen E88CCs vs my Philips E88CC '66 and the valvos blowing them out of the water even tough the Philipses have better matching and are stronger, I decided I want to hear more Valvo tubes - so if I find any deals I'm gonna jump on them
biggrin.gif
Will keep you guys posted.. I've accumulated quite a few tubes now, might start selling off my stash in the classifieds soon keep a lookout if you're interested.

 




Just to clarify (and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) Heerlen E88CC's (or E188CC's for that matter) labeled Philips or Valvo are the exact same tube. Of course there will be the usual unique sound differences from tube to tube (and certainly version and date differences) as there would be when you would compare Philips pairs vs Philips pairs or Valvo pairs vs Valvo pairs.

If you are intent on seeing the Valvo print on your tube and you want the Heerlen version, make sure you check the code for the delta symbol. Hamburg Valvos are designated with a "D" code.

 


Wow, speak of the devil...check these Heerlen Valvo 1959 7L4 D-Getters . I've read in a few places that the 7L4's are tonally equivalent to the legendary Heerlen pinched waists (which ended with the 7L3 version). This could be a real steal...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-VALVO-E88CC-6922-RED-LABEL-D-GETTER-TUBES-7L4-CODE-EXCELLENT-EMISSIONS-/291719344185?hash=item43ebd3f039:g:V~MAAOSwxcRW9XD7
 
Mar 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM Post #8,790 of 23,494
  Thanks for the tube code clarifications! That will greatly help in hunting for tubes in the future.
 
Another quick question... I just received my Blackburn Mullards (B4I1 and B5H2) from the Tube Maze seller on eBay. When I plugged it into my Lyr, I tried giving the tubes a tap and there seemed to be some microphonics. Is there a chance of this going away after burn-in? Does this affect the life of my tubes in any way?


Not uncommon. Important question is whether or not you hear noise when playing. A good percentage of tubes have a degree of microphonics or ringing when tapped. It will also vary with the amp used. So even if the seller claims that the tubes were checked, it may be different for the amp used. Bottom line: if it's bad, complain and get an exchange or refund. If it's slight, only when tapped, does not affect sound, it's not uncommon.
 
I have many sets, including expensive sets, that have very slight microphonics or ringing when tapped, but it is very slight and does not affect listening sound. Some sellers, like Upscale Audio, will make it clear with certain tubes that some ringing is to be expected. By 'slight' I mean in volume and duration, should die off quickly after tapping. I have some great pairs with a little ringing or microphonics, they are as good as any other great pair I have. So, go figure. (At one point I was actually thinking the best sets I had were the ones that had a very slight ring when tapped...not true, but statistically in my collection at the time, it was. :) )
 
Life of tubes? Honestly don't know, but I don't think so. Burn-in? Well I do believe that some have decreased, I have not had any that have increased.
You can try tube dampers also. They are effective to some degree. Since I use them on all my tubes, it's actually the reason I can't be sure if burn-in reduction is happening. With the Schiit amps you can push the damper all the way down until the damper comes in contact with the aluminum case, this will act as a mechanical connection for any vibration that is not dissipated in the silicon itself. Yes, true that heat can not escape upwards along the sides of the tube, has to divert +/- 1/2 inch to the vent panel. Not a problem on my Schiit amps, they do not run noticeably hotter. Even with the 4-tube Valh2 using the higher-watt 6N1Ps.
 
Anyway, yes, a bit upsetting when you buy your first set of $299 or $399 tubes and you hear a little noise when you tap one of those precious glass jewels!
 

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