Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread
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Jan 24, 2013 at 2:17 PM Post #5,026 of 8,735

Iamnothim

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For those playing along at home.
 
"E" is Heater voltage 6.3V
 
I totally missed the thread.  
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Jan 24, 2013 at 2:38 PM Post #5,029 of 8,735

HK_sends

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If that were the case, they'd be wasting the equivalent of a double-triode tube. 
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Yes.  That's why the Triode Flippers can possibly extend the life of the tubes for the Lyr...if one triode starts sounding bad, flipping to the other triode may let you squeeze more life from the tube.  Wasteful?  Probably, but I am sure Jason and Co. considered the cost vs. the benefits.  In electronic (especially analog) design, there's some element of waste.  Two tubes keeps the signal paths separate...
 
Cheers!
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-HK sends
 
Jan 24, 2013 at 2:46 PM Post #5,030 of 8,735

Iamnothim

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Yes.  That's why the Triode Flippers can possibly extend the life of the tubes for the Lyr...if one triode starts sounding bad, flipping to the other triode may let you squeeze more life from the tube.  Wasteful?  Probably, but I am sure Jason and Co. considered the cost vs. the benefits.  In electronic (especially analog) design, there's some element of waste.  Two tubes keeps the signal paths separate...
 
Cheers!
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-HK sends

Makes perfect sense.
Thanks
 
Jan 24, 2013 at 2:56 PM Post #5,031 of 8,735

magicman

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having different channels in separate tubes may reduce interchannel crosstalk ?
 
normally it should be one tube and using both triodes (balanced tube) and that would reduce the cost to 1/2 total, so dont get it ...
 
Jan 24, 2013 at 8:13 PM Post #5,032 of 8,735

SgtFarva

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Hello!
 
I am coming from a Asus Xonar DGX, a $50 sound card with a build in amp, and my experience with it has been great.
I've recently bought the Schiit Lyr to pair with my HE-500 and sad to say, I'm a little disappointed with the Lyr. In my experience, found very little, if any sonic improvement. I guess my sound card was a great buy!
 
I am looking to improve the sonic qualities of my amp by purchasing the correct tubes that fit my preferences but it has been a daunting task trying to read through all the posts. I'm looking to increase bass impact and extensions as well as open the sound stage and improve clarity. I don't need improvement in the mids but do not might if I get a little more sparkle in the treble. I can't stand the wooly warmth sound that you find on the "beats" headphones that make voices sound too bassy and unnatural. I guess you could say I like an analytical sound with tight, impactful, low extending bass. I'm using the stock GE 6BZ7.
 
I think I'm looking at the 6N23P. Are these tubes still relevant? Or, are there other popular tubes I should consider? My budget is under $70 for a pair. Thank you, knowledgable HiFiers!
 
Jan 24, 2013 at 8:24 PM Post #5,033 of 8,735
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I beliieve the Lyr only uses 1 triode from each tube, meaning the first of your examples is more important..... unless you have a "triode flipper" socket to plug your tube(s) in through.  I'm sure someone will correct me if this is not right.

 
Sorry, nope. It uses both triodes in each tube.
 
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Jan 24, 2013 at 8:31 PM Post #5,034 of 8,735

HK_sends

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Sorry, nope. It uses both triodes in each tube.

Whoa, really?  Was I wrong!  I'm sorry everybody...
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So Jason, can you expound a little?  How is it that some amps can run two channels through a single tube?
 
Sorry again folks...
-HK sends
 
PS - So I guess the Triode Flippers are moot for the Lyr...
 
Jan 24, 2013 at 9:51 PM Post #5,035 of 8,735

Iamnothim

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Whoa, really?  Was I wrong!  I'm sorry everybody...
redface.gif

 
So Jason, can you expound a little?  How is it that some amps can run two channels through a single tube?
 
Sorry again folks...
-HK sends
 
PS - So I guess the Triode Flippers are moot for the Lyr...

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Jan 24, 2013 at 9:57 PM Post #5,036 of 8,735

Iamnothim

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It's been said and I'm going to say it again.
 
1965 Amprex Orange Globes (Herleen) are one heck of a bargain.
 
I was hating my new LCD2 R2's.  Cables, breakin, etc.
Rolled the Globes in and they Ate Them Up  !!!!
 
What did I roll out?
1960 Amprex USA D-getters
4 x $
 
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Jan 25, 2013 at 12:50 AM Post #5,037 of 8,735

magicman

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It's extra gain I guess using 2 triodes of one tube for one channel + separate tubes for each channel = lower crosstalk ?
 
Jason could you clarify how these triodes are connected inside ? I mean does it matter if I get 18/15 & 18/15 tubes (1st triode/2nd triode) or do I have to get 18/18 & 18/18 tubes ?
 
Jan 25, 2013 at 2:27 PM Post #5,039 of 8,735

Iamnothim

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@Iamnothim
 
where can I find a matched pair from a reliable source?

Tube documents...
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/moq4g2gjnfeysps/rI_SEEqiG2
 
Many people buy from mercedesman6572 on eBay. 
http://stores.ebay.com/TUBEHUNTER
 
He's a straightforward, fair guy that is very concerned about his customers.  His listings will show the testing values
from his B&K tube tester.  120 is the max on his machine.  Other tube sellers use different brand machines and they have different scales.   Just as the tubes, AKA "valves", are old so is the testing equipment.
 
"Matched"  a matched tube from mercedesman might be described in the listing as 120 / 120.  Since 120 is the max value on the tester  this would be "testes as new".  120 for one triode 120 for the other.  A match.   These tubes would be "NOS / NIB"  New Old Stock or New In Box.  You pay more 50 year old new tube.  A lot of times tubes were sold in bulk to equipment mfg.'s. Tektronix test equipment as an example.  Bulk tubes might not have the colorful box.  Instead it's white with a lot of tube designations stamped on the box.
 
Tubes are said to last from 6,000 to 10,000 and sometimes a lot longer.  A lot of the better tubes came from military applications.  "Milspec" demands a part be of a higher grade and last longer.  This is true for tubes, AKA "valves" too.
 
I don't shy away from used tubes as long as the values are good.
 
There are many designations for the same or compatible tube. The difference is usually manufacturer.
Amperex, Mullard, Siemans, Philips, RCA, GE, Telefunken, La Radiotechnique, Valo, and Lorenz, Philips to name a few.
Some equivalent tube part numbers are    6DJ8, ECC88, E88CC, E188CC, 6922, CV2492, CV2493, Caa, 7DJ8 and PCC88.
The latter two are 7V as opposed to the standard 6.3V.  They work fine and are said to last longer.
E188CC, 6922, and E188CC are said to be a better grade.  To make it interesting some mfg.'s, like Philips / Amperex, made tubes for other brands.
 
What are you paying for?  A couple factors.
Age.  Tubes from the late 50's through the 60's are sought out.  In one discussion here posted that more rare earth metals were used then.
Manufacturer and factory.  Many mfg.'s had multiple plants.  As an example Amperex made tubes in NY, USA and in Herleen Netherlands, among others.
Tube design.  Shields and Getters.  The getter is a structure at the top of the tube under the shinny coating.  There are "D" getters, "O" getters, Dimple disc getters.  etc.  The might be held up by a single wire or an "A" frame.  The getter contributes a lot to a tube's sound signature.
 
The code.  This is the fun part.  How to decipher the code that is either painted or etched on the tube.  There isn't much of a standard and it changes by date and mfg..   But it usually contains yet another tube type designation, city code, and date.
 
As an example a small triangle designates Herleen Netherlands.  SInce Amperex is the only mfg with a plant in Herleen the triangle means Amperex in Holland.
 
And on and on and on…
 
My usual disclaimer below applies…… I am quite confident that  errors and omissions will be pointed out after this discourse is read by The Committee of Tube Elders.
 
 
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