[JohnBal]

Can someone recommend a SS tube for my Lyr 3? Don't know much about tubes ._.

I have found the Sylvania tubes to generally sound more extended than some others - if by SS tube that is what you are referring to.

 

[bob2299]

Maybe I'm referring it wrong, but a SS tube or rectifier. Something like the "LISST" tubes.

 

[FLTWS]

The OG version was discontinued a few years back. There is a new version coming but no ETA on when. I think Jason spoke to this subject recently in one of his posts.

And, the OG flat tops are now collectibles and command a premium price. The new ones will have a tube shape.

 

[bob2299]

Were the "LISST" tubes the only solid state tube the lyr 3 could take?

 

[FLTWS]

Were the "LISST" tubes the only solid state tube the lyr 3 could take?

To my knowledge, yes, nobody I'm aware of made this type of product or any other for amplification purpose.

 

[bob2299]

Hmm... guess i'll have to wait. Thanks for the info

 

[FLTWS]

I'll most likely buy one of the new issue when available. Per Jason they will be electrically identical to the old, just a different shape.

 

[jonathan c]

Lyr 3 in action with GEC L63 / CV1067 pair….

 

[bob2299]

Is there a way to remove the socket saver without removing the top plate?

 

[bcowen]

Is there a way to remove the socket saver without removing the top plate?

This is what I use for the stubborn ones:

 

[jonathan c]

….if you have an extra 6SN7, eight-pin tube or even s/s, maybe the fit will be tight enough to pull the s/s out.

 

[JohnBal]

Is there a way to remove the socket saver without removing the top plate?

Clean dental floss works. A long piece, wrap it around the bottom a few times and carefully work it out.

 

[bob2299]

Thanks

 

[FLTWS]

That's one reason I prefer flush mount tube sockets, you never need extenders and you never run into this issue. Secondly, I think the unit runs cooler.

Of course, that's more expensive to build. Holes need to be drilled in the metal, nuts and bolts needed to affix the tube sockets to the top plate, and since the socket is no longer attached to the circuit board the bottom pins need to be hardwired (hand soldiered) to the circuit board. All adding additional expense.

 

[Paladin79]

It is the only way I build tube amps. I have not seen it with Schiit tube products but I have repaired several amps that had solder joints or etches crack on the PC boards because of the pressure and flexing on the sockets as tubes were changed.