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Here you go:OK, What's name? Ive searched amazon and cannot find them;
https://www.amazon.com/Practicing-Training-Official-Regulation-Thickness/dp/B07GFGWR7W/
Here you go:OK, What's name? Ive searched amazon and cannot find them;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q7435N2/refOK, What's name? Ive searched amazon and cannot find them;
I didnt realize you meant ACTUAL hockey pucks...I thought they were stick on feet. Sorry for the confusion!https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q7435N2/ref
Golden Sport Ice Hockey Pucks, Official Regulation, for Practicing and Classic Training, Diameter 3", Thickness 1", 6oz, Black
Yeah, but that cheap cable will just introduce noise.
They work. Solid. Cheap. If I put a bunch of audiophilia adjectives in front of them could mark them up.I didnt realize you meant ACTUAL hockey pucks...I thought they were stick on feet. Sorry for the confusion!
Yeah but a little noise here, a little there, it all adds up...Short of using a really long cable with a very thin conductor such that resistiveness becomes a proble, there is really no audible difference between cables.
Anyone who tells you there is is suffering from subjective biases.
Very informative, ThanksThanks for the invitation to throw in my 2 cents worth!
I bought the original Loki Mini a couple of months before the Mini+ was released. To my ears, it is completely transparent when set to flat (also tested by switching back-and-forth to to an amp input that skips the Loki entirely. And the 4 bands are good for adjusting the tonal balance in broad strokes: bass, lower-mids, upper-mids and air).
But in time I was craving some finer control than just 4 bands. I think there's a saying, "boost wide, cut narrow", and the Mini can't do the latter. So sometimes it was necessary to dust off my ancient Marantz 10-band EQ (which is the "nuclear option" because it does introduce distortion), either as a band-aid for a bad recording or when I wanted to fatten up the sub-bass without making the mid-bass bloated (maybe it's my room or just inside my head, but I'm often dialling back the region around 125 Hz). Anyway, the Lokius is great for the latter. Having an extra band at both the bottom and top ends is very useful, and I wouldn't go back to a Mini.
On both the Mini and the Lokius, I often liked to turn up the highest band a bit (perhaps compensating for some hearing loss...?), to make the cymbals sweeter and give the sound a more spacious feeling. And I don't think either the Mini or the Lokius has caused distortion for me, even when maxxing out the 20 Hz gyrator (although if the recording is distorted to start with, then cranking the dial can exaggerate that).
Maybe the other people's comments about the 20Hz dial having more effect on the Mini are because it has wider bands, therefore the lowest dial extends further into the mid-bass range. I think the Lokius could get the same result, but you'd need to also turn up the 120 Hz dial a bit.
As an aside, I'd been keeping an eye on Schiit's development of the Lokius and Max for a while, and was disappointed when it was announced that the Max would also only have 6 bands. If it had more bands than the Lodius, I would have been sorely tempted to get the Max instead. But I've since changed my opinion about the number of bands, and now believe that 6 is a good number for general duties ("thump, mid-bass, body, clarity, highs and air"). If you're wanting finer control than that, then a parametric EQ is probably the answer. So I'm still actually tempted now to shell out for a Loki Max... admittedly mostly because seeing the faders (ok, dials) snap into place for each preset is a really cool party trick
Thanks for reading my vague ramblings.
People who have spent money on these Schiit EQs have taken aim at me before. I think technically they work fine. I love Schiit. My amp and DAC are from them.
Take a headphone output chart - say from crinicle of your favorite can. Now figure out how to use each slider you have to effect a change to say - neutral. I doubt there is one can in 100 that will utilize each slider in a way as accurately as a parametric with same # of bands.
Digital Parametric tend to be cheap and some of them are very good. Analog parametric can get expensive. But if you want the best results use the right tool.
Basically using a Schiit EQ to get a can flat is like using the long side of a baseball bat to smooth wallpaper vs using a smoother.
You're right! You just can't take a graph and "fix it" with the Lokius. It's too broad for such fine sculpting.People who have spent money on these Schiit EQs have taken aim at me before. I think technically they work fine. I love Schiit. My amp and DAC are from them.
Take a headphone output chart - say from crinicle of your favorite can. Now figure out how to use each slider you have to effect a change to say - neutral. I doubt there is one can in 100 that will utilize each slider in a way as accurately as a parametric with same # of bands.
Digital Parametric tend to be cheap and some of them are very good. Analog parametric can get expensive. But if you want the best results use the right tool.
Basically using a Schiit EQ to get a can flat is like using the long side of a baseball bat to smooth wallpaper vs using a smoother.
I know and very much like both of those. A Lokius per your comment gives you the sound you like. Good. While I pick at crinicle settings and people that cleave to them with ferocity - I do try to maximize both enjoyment and accuracy with mods and EQ. Parametric is a better tool for that.You're right! You just can't take a graph and "fix it" with the Lokius. It's too broad for such fine sculpting.
Which is the point. Embrace the madness!!
All I really listen to is the HD800S and LCD-4 through the Lokius, and the thing absolutely fixes all their flaws. How? You twist the knobs until you get the sound you like (!!).
Surely. I know the mod well and it works. But what about the declining bass - and the fact that Senn made the damping less accurate than the 800 OG to get a few more Hertz. Your Lokius no doubt satisfied that problem for you.Did you know you can cool down the 6kHz peak of the HD800S without touching the 6kHz knob at all??
I'll take your word for it because it wouldn't work for me on my HE 6 SE, HE 500, and HEX v2. My Senn 600 gets more from my OTL amp than my EQ however but it still helps.There were some great graphs on "the other site" we can't link to which show you the EQ ranges and how wide the bands are. There's an insane amount of interactivity between the bands, so cranking the 2Khz knob may necessitate a cut on the 400Hz knob, but once you embrace the interplay between the bands, this thing can fix anything.
I need to have a satisfying to me rendition of reality before I can enjoy the music fully. Fun as in fun cans and fun tuning is anathema to me.Once you free yourself of parametric EQs with Q values of 4, you will have much more fun.
Nice. 800S needs less corrections. But the LCD-4 needs more doesn't it? How does the Lokius do with that?If anyone is interested, here are my HD800S settings that I created by taking a look at Crin's measurements, plus the "other" Lokius measurements I can't refer to. I got a spreadsheet together and got settings that bring the frequency response within a dB or two of the Harman AE OE 2018 target curve:
20Hz: 3:00
120Hz: 12:00
400Hz: 10:30
2kHz: 3:00
6kHz: 12:00
16kHz: 9:00
Looking at my chart, the 6kHz spike is exactly as it was before, but the rest of the FR is filled out enough where to my ears it doesn't really stand out.