[exdmd]

I haven't been able to follow schiit news as closely as I would appreciate it if someone can just clarify for me:

The Unison USB upgrade will be a hardware or software/firmware upgrade? If it's the former, I assume the various Modis will not be available? And what if it's the latter?

And I'll also join the call for a higher end Mani, specifically for MC carts. I have a Mani now, using it for both MM and MC carts, and I read various accounts online that Mani is great for MM but aren't the best for MC. I haven't had the time nor budget to buy various phono stages to compare with the Mani, but if Schiit were to ever release a higher end phono, I'll trust them enough to just snap it up on the spot.

Hardware for Bifrost and up not for Modis. You replace the Gen 5 USB input board with the new Unison board when available probably January 2020 at the time Windows 7 support ends. If you are using a Windows 7 computer you will have to upgrade to Win 10.

 

[ashirin]

Generally speaking, I think silver should always be an option, at least on your standard category products.

The only case that gives me pause is the upcoming gaming products that Jason has mentioned. I could see those coming standard in black, or even better, in a dark grey. It would look more gamer-y and help differentiate that product line.

Even still, keeping silver is a guarantee that any new Schiit product will match stuff that people already have, and that’s a big bonus. I was honestly thrilled when Schiit phased out the majority of the steel top products, not because the steel was bad, but because it led to mismatched stacks that didn’t look great in my opinion.

One more point: if Schiit do start stocking non-silver products as standard, I think they also need a matching button (and base case, like Jason already mentioned). The black screws are great but I think the input button on the black Bifrost 2 really stands out in a way I don’t personally like.

 

[Robert Padgett]

Silver should always be an option. Certain products are Silver in my mind...Schiit, Mercedes Maybach...you see where I am going?

 

[Alcophone]

Generally speaking, I think silver should always be an option, at least on your standard category products.

Definitely!

The only case that gives me pause is the upcoming gaming products that Jason has mentioned. I could see those coming standard in black, or even better, in a dark grey. It would look more gamer-y and help differentiate that product line.

My bet is on black and orange

Prototype of the "Schiit Hel" spotted at High End 2019 in Munich (driving the new Audeze LCD-GX):







Looks like a bigger Fulla 2 with a microphone input and a 3D printed top.

 

[Randonneur]

So far, my only grip about the Asgard 3 is the missing front LED.

Literally every amp you've ever made has had one, and they serve a real function.

I think its pretty lame that you decided to nix it on the Asgard 3.

This is one of the best but understated changes! The laser-bright LEDs on my Schiit gear get covered in two layers of slightly naff looking dimming film to bring them down to tolerable levels.

On the other hand, I'm really not sure that remote is worthwhile if it doesn't incorporate volume control. How often do you change source or want to mute, compared to adjust volume. And phase inversion on a remote? How often do you need that?

If there was an option to drop even 10 off the price by dropping the remote, I'd take it.

 

[Rensek]

This is one of the best but understated changes! The any laser-bright LEDs on Schiit get covered in two layers of slightly naff looking dimming film to bring them down to tolerable levels.

On the other hand, I'm really not sure that remote is worthwhile if it doesn't incorporate volume control. How often do you change source or want to mute, compared to adjust volume.

I've established that I am an audio noob (some would rightly say idiot).

Can someone point me to a clear explanation of what phase inversion is and why it matters? I didn't see it I'm the FAQ. I know alot of subs have phase inversion.

The switchable input remote would be useful for me, as I have my modi multibit in my living room. Google CCA feeds toslink, and my tvs toslink is put a nifty little box that turns one toslink or coaxial spdif into both coaxial and toslink. So the coaxial goes to my schiit, the toslink feeds the soundbar. I find in the evening I am switching between the tv and the CCA.

I don't want two remotes. I'm really hoping the dual component remote gets made quickly. I hate the little plastic remote that came with my original saga anyway. I'm always losing the darned thing.

Also, how much does the remote functionality add to the total cost of Bifrost? 25 bucks? Sure no problem. 50 bucks? Geez now we are talking real money. That's the state tax.

And another thought,

So let's just assume that Gungnr is headed for a similar make over.

What are the chances Gungnir 2 has nexus AND a volume control, ala saga or Freya. Also that means discrete output, and fully balanced. The so called digital preamp I've heard mention of a time or two....

That would be absolutely stellar....

 

[Alcophone]

And phase inversion on a remote? How often do you need that?

Unless you're close to a given device (e.g. desktop setup), any of its functions are ideally remote controllable. Phase inversion would be used for songs where the phase was inverted during recording, so in the worst normal case you need that for every song (song with right phase, song with wrong phase, song with right phase, song with wrong phase, ...). That's assuming you know which song needs it. To find out, you probably want to toggle it a few times while playing the song. Much less of a drag when you have a remote to do that.

I never use the phase reversal on my Yggy because, well, it's too darn far away, and behind a glass door, and half the time my cat is on me, and when I flip the switch I'm not in a good listening position to judge the effect anyway. A remote would make it much more likely that I at least try it again.

Edit: And machined buttons cost money, every time you make one, while everything else about supporting phase reversal is a one time cost (adding support for another IR code in the firmware, specifying the remote to have a button for it, documenting it in the manual). So if you have remote control already, supporting phase reversal with the remote is pretty darn clever.

 

[bryceu]

Oh yea I guess it wouldn’t be Bimby anymore

 

[Currawong]

And mentioning black, you’ll notice that Asgard 3 is available in black from the get-go. It’s also using new black screws on the black chassis, so It looks better, too.

I told you that you wanted black! (Couldn't resist.)

I blocked out this day so you guys can help me catch the errors. I was so proud of remembering the guides...and then we get "O" and "tubes" and "watts" and all kinds of other wacky stuff. Thanks for letting me know!

It's worse shooting video. I didn't realised I'd mixed up "regulation" and "rectification" in a video until someone pointed it out.

 

[gljus]

Question, with Saga, Freya, Ragnarok, and now Bifrost all having remotes, is there any chance you will be putting out a multi function remote?

One that works for both Saga/Freya and Bifrost for example.

That's a good idea.

Or not... as I can see someone having a Bifrost close to Saga/Freya and trying to switch inputs
Maybe offering it as an extra would work...

 

[axlic0]

So What is difference between AD5781BRUZ &. AD5781ARUZ?

 

[wout31]

So What is difference between AD5781BRUZ &. AD5781ARUZ?

Precision as you can see in de AD data sheet. And price fore that matter.

 

[wout31]

How would you characterize the Vidars compared to the Quad 405-II’s? I have one with a single dead channel and I’m trying to decide whether to get it serviced or let it go.
The reason I ask: my speakers are Totem Acoustic Mani-2 Signatures and they’re a tough drive. Stand mounts that go down to 26 Hz, they have a nominal load of 4 ohms, but they drop below 2 ohms at certain frequencies. The owner’s manual recommends using a power amp rated between 200 and 400 watts...!
I’m using a Meitner STR-55 right now, which although it’s rated 50W into 8 ohms, is also rated to swing 10 amps, and seems to control the Mani-2s nicely. I get good bass (although I don’t listen to a lot of organ music or EDM, the likes of Jaco Pastorius or Flea sound pretty damn good).
I’m trying to decide whether the Quad’s Current Dumping (and nominal 100W rating) would be better enough than the Floating Charge of the Meitners to make the repair bill worth it, or if I should consider Vidars instead (or, god help me, as well - this hobby can be evil and expensive...).
Cheers!.

I would characterize the Vidars as more natural, and with much more dynamics. The Quad is more held-back, as if the signal is squeezed off at some points.
4 ohm speakers that go to 2 ohm in some frequency ranges is not advised with Vidar used as mono blocks.The Quads are 8 ohm, go no lower than 3 ohm and do so without any weird phase responses due to the absence of frequency filters. All speakers have a push back effect on an amplifier that influences the sound. So no 2 combinations are the same.

I wonder why always that information on how low the bass goes on speakers. It's like a fetish to mention this number. The detail in mids and percentage of distortion is way more important (and never given by loudspeaker manufacturers).
That 26 Hz is a totally non relevant number that is only met in anechoic rooms, which for sure our listening rooms are not. And/Or measured 10 cm in front of the speaker at say 70 dB. What are the numbers at 1 meter and 90 dB? Or even better listening position (3-5 meters from the speaker) and 85-90 dB listening levels in a real room? I bet you wouldn't like those numbers! That's why the manufacturer doesn't mention any relevant numbers, but hides behind the likeable numbers. And we as audiophiles accept them without any context. The manufacturer trust we interpretate these numbers a being the numbers that are met when we listen to our music at normal listening levels in our room. I can assure they at not for any speaker out there in the real world.

If Vidar is your choice I don't know, it certainly is mine. Sold off the 405-2. Kept the 520F for historical value.

@Jason Stoddard and @Baldr Congrats on a new iconic Schiit product you created with the Bifrost-2. It looks a masterpiece of engineering to me.
Already Looking forward to the Unison-USB ™ upgrade for my Yggy in 2020 (still find the naming confusing with Universal Audio Unison) and Sol before that.
Also hoping for the high power Continuity ™ amplifier to follow Aegir.

 

[EricDH]

I can't decide between a black or silver Asgard 3 ...

At that price, buy both.

 

[johnjen]

Phase inversion is a useful control under some circumstances and for some systems.
In essence what it does is reverse the polarity of the generated pressure wave from the drivers so that when a kick drum is initially struck, the re-created pressure wave is actually positive and not negative.

The ear can distinguish the differences between a positive vs. negative pressure wave when musical instruments are being played.

Bass is where I hear the greatest benefit from use of this control, in that the bass response is enhanced and extended to lower frequencies, assuming of course the track has those frequencies to begin with AND the system is capable of delivering these lower frequencies.
But all sources of sound (vocals, instruments etc.) will respond to the proper absolute system phase, but these changes are even more subtle and can take considerable training/calibration in order to hear them.

Overall though I consider the ability to change the absolute phase of the signal a 'must have' feature, so much so that I have added a data field into Media Center devoted to the absolute phase for each track I listen to.
And granted for some tracks it doesn't seem to make any difference, one way or the other, but for other tracks having the deep rumble of subsonic bass present as well as the increase in the leading edge dynamic impact of every instrument, even for instruments such as piccolo's, and all tied into the music, is most gratifying.
So getting all this dialed in can result a most satisfying and delightful experience.

And the ability to hear and feel this degree of bass is MUCH more discernible on HP's than speakers, that is unless you have WAY more $$$$$$$$$$ than ¢'s, and even then it's often hit or miss if you can actually get speakers to re-produce true musical bass down to 20Hz and below.

JJ