[Timster]

but to go even further; any recommendation on the circuit breakers to use? I understood that it is best to avoid the automatic ones.

All circuit breakers are automatic, but when in the "On" position are passing the power through just like a switch.
If you didn't want any "automatics" in the path, you would need to use fuses not breakers, but I'm not sure they would be allowed now, depends on the local regs for the supply.
Circuit breakers would also be hard wired, whereas fuses would have exposed contacts and possible corrosion over time.
Your local supply regs may also require an earth leakage.residual current devices.... these too are automatic and detect current flow to ground and shut off the power.... There are an important safety device.

Honestly, I don't think you (or anyone) would notice the difference with or without Breakers/RCDs/Fuses. So for sure, get dedicated supply lines/circuits to the room but that would be it for me. Of course, YMMV

 

[Pietro Cozzi Tinin]

Multiple past discussions indicated that Schiit are unwilling to get into the streamer software support mess. As for new DACs, Mike mentioned some new experiments recently on his thread. Whether they'll yield anything, time will tell. And earlier he had talked about the Unison USB board under test, which might bring the USB input of the current Schiit modular DACs to the top of the input choices.

It wouldn't surprise me if they trashed that principle and made a transport/dac.
Software and updates are easily outsourced. They did that with part of the design of SOL too.

 

[Derrick Swart]

All circuit breakers are automatic, but when in the "On" position are passing the power through just like a switch.
If you didn't want any "automatics" in the path, you would need to use fuses not breakers, but I'm not sure they would be allowed now, depends on the local regs for the supply.
Circuit breakers would also be hard wired, whereas fuses would have exposed contacts and possible corrosion over time.
Your local supply regs may also require an earth leakage.residual current devices.... these too are automatic and detect current flow to ground and shut off the power.... There are an important safety device.

Honestly, I don't think you (or anyone) would notice the difference with or without Breakers/RCDs/Fuses. So for sure, get dedicated supply lines/circuits to the room but that would be it for me. Of course, YMMV

this is what i found on the internetz:
Modern consumer units make use of automatic, resettable fuses. They measure current-flow on a magnetical basis to interrupt current in case of an overload or short circuit. This automatic fuse contains an inductor and several (small) contacts. An advantage of these fuses is the reset function, a major disadvantage can be found in the negative influence it has on the quality of sound and vision. Automatic fuses (as used in any modern home) react extremely fast on surges that exceed the nominal current. Many amplifiers incorporating large power supplies don't have an inrush current limiter and cause an automatic breaker to trip immediately. This is fully due to the extremely fast response of these breakers. Fuses using a melting wire as used in our Cylindric Fuse Cartridges prevent these mishaps. In nearly all applications a 16 Amps fuse is more than adequate, even in combination with very powerful amplifiers

 

[Timster]

this is what i found on the internetz:
Modern consumer units make use of automatic, resettable fuses. They measure current-flow on a magnetical basis to interrupt current in case of an overload or short circuit. This automatic fuse contains an inductor and several (small) contacts. An advantage of these fuses is the reset function, a major disadvantage can be found in the negative influence it has on the quality of sound and vision. Automatic fuses (as used in any modern home) react extremely fast on surges that exceed the nominal current. Many amplifiers incorporating large power supplies don't have an inrush current limiter and cause an automatic breaker to trip immediately. This is fully due to the extremely fast response of these breakers. Fuses using a melting wire as used in our Cylindric Fuse Cartridges prevent these mishaps. In nearly all applications a 16 Amps fuse is more than adequate, even in combination with very powerful amplifiers

"...a major disadvantage can be found in the negative influence it has on the quality of sound and vision..." Really? Someone is making that statement .....No qualifying statements on sound quality. How is that measured?

Yes, a Circuit Breaker (CB) may react faster than a fuse, but when it is on, it still provides the same power to the downstream circuit. If it trips due to start up current, you maybe have a CB or circuit with too low a rating. And, they are generally not instantaneous. Just like fuses they have a tolerance. I also found on the internetz .... "Fuses represent a less expensive route for overcurrent protection. They also react faster than a circuit breaker," Regardless, the power quality will be the same, and start-up current would usually be so quick that neither would blow, unless you are running the circuit tolerances too low.

Here's a link : https://blog.steinerelectric.com/2016/07/key-differences-between-fuses-and-circuit-breakers/

RCDs/Safety Swithes/Residual Current Devices/Earth Leakage Detectors - these on the other hand are extremely fast to react to a current to ground situation (not an inrush.overload current) Less than 25 milliseconds usually, and are designed to minimize the risk of electric shock if we humans do something stoopid and short ourselves to ground.

Sound quality will not be affected IMHO.

 

[US Blues]

Need some advice. I am in the fortunate situation that the termites ate my house. No joke, but on the bright side: gives me a new floor and electricity in my listening room. Dedicated groups for my amps and dac will make an improvement but to go even further; any recommendation on the circuit breakers to use? I understood that it is best to avoid the automatic ones.

I would add that proper grounding/earthing of your electrical system will go a long way to giving you the best sound. Work with your electrician to "over do" the grounding of the main breaker box, and any sub-b0x you may be using for dedicated audio and video circuits.

 

[Pietro Cozzi Tinin]

Here we go again.
We had this discussion thousands of times here.
Believers that swallow everything they read and defend it even when never experienced "the phenomenon".
Unbelievers technical nerds who do not believe anything if it is not measured and trash it even when they never experienced "the phenomenon".
And very few intelligents who just measure with their ears and go from that.

 

[MatthiasP]

Today the Internet changed our life quite drastically - you know all that. For me the interesting phenomenon is related to what Pietro said:
Even if you said that you respect other opinions, but state with many words and arguments that this time the truth is different, AND say that you can proof it yourself by testing it, they will stubbornly defend what they've read!
It seems to me that brain wearers don't use it to thing for themselves anymore but "learn" what a group says/writes/states.
So: Listen with your own ears!
It's also so much more fun, and also easier!
Take care and enjoy!

 

[Androxylo]

Now that's a modern touch. I like it.
It's a momentarily electronic divorce.

Interestingly, with my ancient desktop system I still get much better sound than with headphones. So I listen headphones only at work. Compare those and tell me why desktop (2 feet from head) still beats cans:

Desktop: USB -> Khadas tone board -> power section (no preamp) Arcam Delta 290 -> Dynaudio M10

Cans: USB -> Topping DX3 Pro -> Denon AH-D7000

 

[Brubacca]

I’m unhappy with my sound right now. The Saga doesn’t give enough bottom end and punch to the Aegir in my experience (into Tekton Lore OG). Agree that’s the highs and upper mids are really spectacular with the Aegir and Saga combo, but at giant expense of the lower mids through sub bass. I had Vidar before. It was a very nice amp. Some transformer noise, but I think they can fix that; not the most refined in the highs, but amazing PRaT, and punch, worked well with the Saga because Vidar has unbelievable, effortless gain. Kind of regret swapping it for the Aegir. My best guess is that Freya S/Freya + is the solution. An actual gain stage (4x for balanced vs Unity gain on Saga). With that move, I could also get a second Aegir down the line if needed for more power (which I expect might be where I'm heading). Bottom line for me, Aegir is unreal in detail and musicality from the upper mids on up, in my setup, but I’m really feeling the lack of gain in the pre stage isn’t doing me any favors.

Every review I have read of the Aegir says that it lacks in the bottom end compared to Vidar. I have even read this with a guy doing Aegir Monoblocks. My point being that I don't think Saga is to blame for this.

I could be wrong as I own none of the components in question.

Good Luck.

 

[Pietro Cozzi Tinin]

Interestingly, with my ancient desktop system I still get much better sound than with headphones. So I listen headphones only at work. Compare those and tell me why desktop (2 feet from head) still beats cans:

Desktop: USB -> Khadas tone board -> power section (no preamp) Arcam Delta 290 -> Dynaudio M10

Cans: USB -> Topping DX3 Pro -> Denon AH-D7000

I simply don't know. I (but I'm a moron on techs) have the same opinion.
I'm a 2-CH listener first because it sounds so much better.
However I did my utmost to make it sound so good.

 

[Ableza]

It's like I've said a thousand times on this and other forums- 100% of audio is subjective since it is based on perception. We like what we like, and preference will always overcome tech.

 

[tafens]

Thanks! My only experience with tubes thus far has been with my Saga which I got last fall. I generally prefer the sound with the tube engaged rather than on strictly passive. Perhaps that means I like tubes...

Side question - how can you tell when a tube is wearing out and needs replacing?

I too love the tube sound, in my case out of a Lyr3

I found a thread here when I was looking into the same question as you;
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/do-tubes-degrade-in-sq-over-time-how-long-does-it-last.513635/

TL;DR: it works great until it just stops working, and that will be quite obvious.

 

[Robert Padgett]

It's like I've said a thousand times on this and other forums- 100% of audio is subjective since it is based on perception. We like what we like, and preference will always overcome tech.

A brilliant encapsulation of my thinking also.
If we came to this hobby with expectations that "The Best" is just around the corner--we will always feel the need to buy something different to make that happen, and that will inevitably result in disappointment.
But, if your selections produce a sound which engages you, draws you into the Music and give you satisfaction, then you will always be pleased with your choices.

 

[EricDH]

It's like I've said a thousand times on this and other forums- 100% of audio is subjective since it is based on perception. We like what we like, and preference will always overcome tech.

True, we all have our tastes, perceptions and preferences.

Still, I believe in physics. So, if differences are audible, they must also be measurable. Only, I think that often we don't know (yet) what/how to measure. Science isn't a finished project. For example in the audio, for decades people focused on the frequency domain, and thought this would explain everything. Until we discovered that our ears are much more sensitive to differences in the time domain than differences in the frequency domain. Without any doubt, there are still things we don't know, but have a significant impact. Even the best electronics designers admit that they can't always explain audible differences with measurements.

 

[Pietro Cozzi Tinin]

And.. one doesn't listen with ones ears only.