is there any reason to purchase a freya simply for volume control purposes, so not switching between sources. is it correct that the freya, in passive mode, simply attenuates the signal of the source (my DAC) and not the amplifier (my headphone amp), so the chain is source > input preamp and then output > headphone amp. if so, what does one normally do with the volume on the headphone amp, which is variable - set it to mid or max?
1.) You can certainly use a Freya for just volume control, but that makes it a very expensive device for only that purpose and you miss out on great audio via its other stages.
2.) Yes
3.) I set my headphone amp's audio to full. There's no reason to reduce it. On the Freya between volume all the way off and 12:00 position, the volume is not overpowering (vs. my Asgard 3 headphone amp on high gain where it gets too loud past 9:30-ish). On the Freya, after 12:00, volume rises faster than it does up to 12:00.
Regarding my question about setting the volume of the headphone amp, I found this information, which makes sense.
***
When using a preamplifier and a power amplifier connected to the preamplifier, the volume control of the power amplifier should be set to maximum. This is because the preamplifier is responsible for controlling the volume of the audio signal before it reaches the power amplifier. The power amplifier, on the other hand, is responsible for amplifying the signal to a level that can drive the speakers. By setting the volume control of the power amplifier to maximum, you ensure that the signal is amplified to its maximum potential, while still allowing the preamplifier to control the overall volume of the system.
Not exactly. Freya's relay-stepped attenuator is linear on the dB scale, 0.625 dB for each step/click, whereas most attenuators have an impedance curve that allows for larger relative changes in volume on the lower side of 12 o'clock than on the higher side.
To add to the Freya-N discussion, I've been running 80's 6N6Ps in the cathode follower (left) position and 80's Sylvania JAN 6DJ8's in the voltage gain (right) position for some time, and they sound great. Yesterday I decided to roll some 1959 GE 6BZ7s in the gain section and have really been enjoying them. They're more "euphonic" than the 6DJ8's but still have very good extension and no notable frequency response coloration.
Love my Freya, quick question. With an empty pair of rca between the rca and xlr output, I get hum when either xlr output is attached to an unpowered amplifier 35' away.
Removing the xlr fixes this, just curious if this is normal, anyone tried that before, etc.
Love my Freya, quick question. With an empty pair of rca between the rca and xlr output, I get hum when either xlr output is attached to an unpowered amplifier 35' away.
Removing the xlr fixes this, just curious if this is normal, anyone tried that before, etc.
Regarding my question about setting the volume of the headphone amp, I found this information, which makes sense.
***
When using a preamplifier and a power amplifier connected to the preamplifier, the volume control of the power amplifier should be set to maximum. This is because the preamplifier is responsible for controlling the volume of the audio signal before it reaches the power amplifier. The power amplifier, on the other hand, is responsible for amplifying the signal to a level that can drive the speakers. By setting the volume control of the power amplifier to maximum, you ensure that the signal is amplified to its maximum potential, while still allowing the preamplifier to control the overall volume of the system.
I am running the Freya N into a headphone amp instead of a power amp. Have tried the headphone amp at max and controlling the volume with the Freya as well as the other way around. No difference to me, but ymmv.
Since it seems I missed the last of the Matsushita PC88/7DJ8 availability, what Is the next best easily available tube for those closed out Freya N? Retail channels please, as not much tolerance for eBay much less individual sales.
many thanks!
edit: $240 usd limit if possible, and I understand only a pair is really needed for upgrade. Yiggy GS2 for source, and amp to be named later driving Vandy 2s.
Since it seems I missed the last of the Matsushita PC88/7DJ8 availability, what Is the next best easily available tube for those closed out Freya N? Retail channels please, as not much tolerance for eBay much less individual sales.
many thanks!
edit: $240 usd limit if possible, and I understand only a pair is really needed for upgrade. Yiggy GS2 for source, and amp to be named later driving Vandy 2s.
Since it seems I missed the last of the Matsushita PC88/7DJ8 availability, what Is the next best easily available tube for those closed out Freya N? Retail channels please, as not much tolerance for eBay much less individual sales.
many thanks!
edit: $240 usd limit if possible, and I understand only a pair is really needed for upgrade. Yiggy GS2 for source, and amp to be named later driving Vandy 2s.
I have had great luck with eBay. You have to do the research, but many of the so-called "retail" channels started on eBay. I've learned quite a bit from a few eBay sellers who know their business, know the codes, have the right equipment, and, more importantly, know how to use it. Most do returns so that you can limit your exposure. Some from the US, others abroad. YMMV.
I have had one bad tube that a seller made good on....one even though in an extra on a used tube to cover if one of the used tubes went south early. ( Early 60's miniwatt PCC88.
Unless you're testing them on your end, I'm not sure if one is better than the other. I never purchased through a retail store or felt the need to, so I can't speak to the part of your original question.
I prefer the Phillips miniwatts PCC88 myself late 50's or early 60s. I had a later set, 69, which made the music sound unrealistic. I recently received a quad set of test60 '60s0's Matsushita PCC88, and although they do sound very good, I think the Miniwatts are a bit more holographic and have better detail. PCC88 can sound a hare on the warmer side than neutral as well. To my ears.
Good luck in the hunt.
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
Since it seems I missed the last of the Matsushita PC88/7DJ8 availability, what Is the next best easily available tube for those closed out Freya N? Retail channels please, as not much tolerance for eBay much less individual sales.
many thanks!
edit: $240 usd limit if possible, and I understand only a pair is really needed for upgrade. Yiggy GS2 for source, and amp to be named later driving Vandy 2s.
I just received some Tung-Sol grey plate 2 mica 6CG7s with the black shield in the middle. The most defined and clean treble out of the 6CG7 I have tried, no matter which pair of tubes was on the left. They are light on the bass but have very good separation between bass, mids, and highs, as a result. Currently paired with the RCA black plates as they are the darkest-sounding tube in my collection.
Here is the sound description for some of the tube combinations I have tried in my system so far, from darkest to brightest, Left/Right, ymmv:
- RCA Black w/ Raytheon Grey: slightly thin/wispy treble (very gentle sounding), extremely full and defined bass (very satisfying), euphonic mids
- RCA Black w/ Tung-Sol Grey 2 mica: Quite a bit more definition and clarity in treble, slightly less full bass and texture (still beyond excellent), and a natural-sounding midrange compared to the above
- Raytheon Grey x4: Neutral with bass boost. Jack of all trades, master of none. Good choice for starter tubes
- Raytheon Grey w/ Tung-Sols: Too clean of a sound, quite boring to listen to. neutral bass without much texture, clean mids, and even cleaner highs
- RCA Grey w/ Raytheon Grey: Neutral bass with good texture but sub-bass light. Mids also very dry and clean. Very thin treble and is slightly sibilant on some tracks. Has the most 'air'.
- Stock 6N1P tubes x4: Not that good after rolling 6CG7s in. Very detailed but also very in-your-face.
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