[prima186]

I use Freya+ in tube mode and passive mode.
I usually put it in tube mode, and when not in use it's in passive mode.
It is "slightly warm" in passive mode.

 

[Orange5o]

.

 

[tincanear]

Elevating the tubes in freya N with sovket savers will allow for a cooler running chassis.

Freya S runs only slightly warm, even running 24/7.

 

[PJ219]

So like many others I am on my 2nd Freya N. Exactly the same problem as first one oddly enough. The stock tubes 6N1P pop only on the input side. I have three sets, 1972 Voskhod rocket 6N23P, and 79 Voskhod Rocket w/silver shields., and (sampling some mid 60's Phillips miniwatt PCCC88 7DJ8( what a trippy wild sounding tube ) With all V sets in no pops, all swapped around. The stock 6N1P's pop only on input side. Between 11am and 2-4 pm. They are also higher ma rated tubes. I am wondering if it happens with all tubes over a certain ma rating?

Not an EE, CE here but did the basic POE and that's where I landed. It has to be a QA/QC area issue from outsourced parts or assembly issue perhaps. Its a issue, but not widespread.
Two entirely different serial number units same exact issue and they sent me new tubes same problem. I just got a response from CS second go around that its normal to pop? I wasn't expecting that answer from Schiit.

Onto the sound. I personally like the tube section. I get the buffer section, and I do think it sounds great but with the right tubes its a whole different ball game. I wonder how many roll or just base the prefered sound off the stock tubes.
And yes it does run a bit hot 105+ on top panel.

My POV and newbie to tubes and describing in general:

Combo 1 Stock 6N1P 80's( Input and output)
Exciting, loud, can be shouty
very detailed all freq.
Lacks good bass and mid bass
Comparatively cheap to purchase
Can be very fatiguing after a while anything over middle volume,
least liked tube

Combo 2 71 Voskhod Rockets 6N23P SWGP Gray Shield (output) / 79 Voskhod Rocket 6N23P Gotw Silver Shield(Input)
Very Musical
Non Fatiguing at any volume ,minor roll off on treble, rich sounding tones
Female vocals slight warm and rich sounds like there in the room
Soundstage more "live" closer to stage
Instrument separation very good (low and middle range)and full body and stronger detail in the mid range
Detail is tight, clean and accurate, Slight Warm signature but not like an old school tube amp
low volume detail excellent as well. Natural sounding generally
Bang for the buck tubes, 79's slowly creeping up.72 is the warmer sounding/detail and the 79 bring the mid range tone and detail
My favorite combo and the one I listen to the most

Combo 3 71 Voskhod Rockets 6N23P SWGP Gray Shield (output)/ Mid to late 60s Phillips MiniWatt PCCC 88(Holland)(Input) On trial listen to buy

The PCC88 are really interesting tubes. The first time I listened to this combo I was all over the place on how to describe them.
Imagining and soundstage is huge compared to other combos, Reverb sounding comes to mind
Can sound 3d or holographic is a good description, sometimes its a bit much though
Bass is punchy and tight, detailed all around lacks a little bottom end richness on lower or sub base
The upper midrange and lower treble is extremely transparent, I hear musical tones/interwoven passages I have not heard in songs before. upper mid area is incredible separated.
Piano sounds tonally accurate, nice detail. If you play piano you will know what I mean. Tube in general is very detailed, not clinical sounding
tubes are sensitive to volume, at high volumes female voices can be sharp bordering harsh
I think i have noticed some odd artifacts here and there in sounds, I need to investigate that more. Not sure if tube issue or design.
Sweet spot is low to mid volume, non potential harsh sounding area.
This is definitely a fun/party type tube, but at lower volumes can really be a nice sounding combo.
2nd favorite combo of the 3 sets, although I have mixed feelings about accuracy of music sound sometimes, Wild tube!

I do have plans to swap input to outputs and vice versa but not expecting to much variance since the better tubes are used on the input side but we will see.
Overall I personally like this particular tube preamp, and the closeout price. The popping to be continued.

The tube combos were sampled through AMusic HD or better fed usb to Aune Magic 8 18th Annv. with Sparkos opamp installed, Freya N preamp, bone stock 1985 Hafler DH-220( recently tuned up(bias and dc offsets) but not modified), out to 1989 Klipsch KG-4's.

Cheers!

 

[Orange5o]

My N also is out for repairs, the usual 12 o clock pop, and sometimes my remote volume doesn't work. But ultimately, what I need is to know why, even with a Vidar and 92 db efficient speakers, I can't get to listenable volume in tube mode, I don't get any sound until past 12...

 

[mmmadog]

I am always way past 12 o clock and with the amp I'm using now I run out of volume.

 

[Orange5o]

I am always way past 12 o clock and with the amp I'm using now I run out of volume.

Had that with an Aegir and my floorstanders, which wasn't that surprising, but with a Vidar that seemed to be off

 

[PJ219]

My N also is out for repairs, the usual 12 o clock pop, and sometimes my remote volume doesn't work. But ultimately, what I need is to know why, even with a Vidar and 92 db efficient speakers, I can't get to listenable volume in tube mode, I don't get any sound until past 12...I

It has to do with there volume control very different that typical pentionetmeter

Had that with an Aegir and my floorstanders, which wasn't that surprising, but with a Vidar that seemed to be off

A friend of mine just picked up a Vidar 2 AB amp and(DT 9020) and with his Aune dac that is a preamp as well he has the same issue. He runs the dac though the preamp out xlr and it has a higher output voltage directly to the vidar. It does help with the volume. I did the same thing but felt adding a avg potentiometer volume control your adding another potential source of noise vs the line out. Its definitely louder early on the volume control but,.... using the line out of the Dac to Freya N then to amp, I can cause hearing damage if its past about 3, can i go louder without distortion sure, but why?
It did bother me at first but, not any more.

 

[belgiangenius]

One thing I agree with regarding the Freya N is that the supplied tubes suck.

I've purchased three sets so far, 4x Philips Miniwatt, 4x 1974 Reflektor, and 4x Amperex Bugle Buy.

All sound a bit different and have strengths and weaknesses, but all are much better than the supplied tubes. The supplied tubes were also clearly used and didn't test that great on my tube tester.

 

[Uber Reem]

Update on my Freya N experience (12 o clock pop in tube mode) after getting replacement tubes from Schiit.

The replacement tubes were actually worse than the original tubes I received w my unit. The replacement tubes introduced more pops after 12 o clock and the pins were rather dirty. Cleaning made no difference. After I communicated this to customer support, they offered to receive the unit for repair.

But... from reading this thread full of experiences w the Freya acting funny w bad tubes, I purchased 2 matched EH 6922 gold pins from upscale audio and put those in the gain stage (w the 2 of best seeming schiit tubes on the left side). These new tubes made my Freya experience meet expectations. Not only do they sound better, but no more pops! That is the biggest thing, a clean volume dial. Those pops can really degrade the listening experience when passing back and forth. There is also no more pop when turning the unit off (I know... Amp first, but having to instruct the family on this...).

I also purchased some tube savers and got some slightly taller feet. I was expecting a bigger drop in temperatures from what I've read, but most of the Freya heat truly does seem to be transformer rather than tube. Not too hot by any means, but hotter than expected. Thay said, the tube savers are awesome! These little noval tubes look great sticking out of the Freya.

I am now fully happy with my new Freya N.

 

[vvume]

OK…my resistors are also soldered in now…I had an issue or two caused by lack of circuit board soldering experience……but I sorted that out and my unit is up and running perfectly and burned-in about 100 hours.
Listening to Felix LaBand "Dark Days Exit"… The 1st thing I am noticing above all is the 3-Dimensionality of the recording…it's off the charts. More clearly defined placement of instruments and sounds in the 3D sphere. It’s a little freaky. I think that the bass is tighter, too. Also, resonance on say an acoustic guitar, sounds more life-like. More resonant. The SS stage sounds much flatter now in comparison. I am not sure that I can attribute what I am experiencing to just the resistors or the combo of resistors and caps. All these things were improved with the caps, but the resistors seem to have put those improvements on steroids. This was all so worth the intense effort. So enjoyable to experience this. It connects me with my whole system In a personal way.
Question: Do you have any thoughts on audiophile fuses? Both the Freya and my Loki Max have fuses in fuse holders next to where the 120v power comes into the unit. Are they worth upgrading? It was in my face…so i am curious.

Going through the same journey myself. Just replaced the caps and boy did they make a huge difference. Now I have the resistors ordered (the older AN magnetic tantalums as they were significantly cheaper than the non-magnetric, silvers, etc.). Any tips on soldering specific to the resistors or are they the same deal as the caps? I struggled a bit to install/solder the caps, but I think I have learnt the knack now. Ironically, I am going to swap out the fuse with a Gustard nano fuse at the same time as I do the resistors (I have used a Gustard nano fuse throughout my system where a fuse option exists: Isolation transformer, Gustard R26, LHY OCK-2).

 

[PoMarantz]

Going through the same journey myself. Just replaced the caps and boy did they make a huge difference. Now I have the resistors ordered (the older AN magnetic tantalums as they were significantly cheaper than the non-magnetric, silvers, etc.). Any tips on soldering specific to the resistors or are they the same deal as the caps? I struggled a bit to install/solder the caps, but I think I have learnt the knack now. Ironically, I am going to swap out the fuse with a Gustard nano fuse at the same time as I do the resistors (I have used a Gustard nano fuse throughout my system where a fuse option exists: Isolation transformer, Gustard R26, LHY OCK-2).

Hey…do they have private messaging here? If you want I can talk to you on the phone. I was not that experienced and ran into some problems with the resistors. It’s a discussion. My caps went very smooth. I did them first and ran into issues with the resistors.
Edit…found it..sent you a message.

 

[Orange5o]

Got my Freya N back today, issue was not any usable volume in tube mode and loud pops. Happy to say it appears to be fixed, glad I stuck it out. Repairs made: "Replaced volume pot, resoldered resonator, replaced transformer."

Reserving sonic judgements until this and the new Aegir are broken in

 

[Orange5o]

Question for you....I have a Freya N with an Aegir I tried on 92db speakers, and in tube mode could not get decent volume. I didn't even think it was on until I turned the volume on the Freya 75% around, and at full max was not loud enough for a small room. How much volume are you getting in tube mode?

Strangest thing, to circle back to this. I decided to give it one more shot, so I sent it in for repairs, and now I get plenty of volume, but it sounds bad, anything with bass sounds like I have blown woofers or something, using either Aegir or Vidar. Either I'm doing something wrong or it just isn't meant to be in my system. Using same setup and cables going back to my integrated it sounds fine. The heck?

 

[theeclone]

Strangest thing, to circle back to this. I decided to give it one more shot, so I sent it in for repairs, and now I get plenty of volume, but it sounds bad, anything with bass sounds like I have blown woofers or something, using either Aegir or Vidar. Either I'm doing something wrong or it just isn't meant to be in my system. Using same setup and cables going back to my integrated it sounds fine. The heck?

Definitely weird. Have you tried w different tubes? I feel like I've heard rumblings of the stock freya n tubes not always being so great. Also, are you doing rca out to stereo in on a single vidar/aegir, or are they balanced out to monoblocks?