[nocturaline]

Eitr is self powered so you won't have the same problems again

Thanks!

 

[bullitt5094]

I have a Bifrost Multibit with a USB input. It is the latest/greatest version only 2 months old. Is there any reason to use this USB/SPDIF converter in front of it? The only reason I can think of is it would improve the sound. If the answer is already buried in this thread, I apologize. I sifted some and didn't see it.

 

[RickB]

I have a Bifrost Multibit with a USB input. It is the latest/greatest version only 2 months old. Is there any reason to use this USB/SPDIF converter in front of it? The only reason I can think of is it would improve the sound. If the answer is already buried in this thread, I apologize. I sifted some and didn't see it.

If you already have the Gen 5 USB, there is no reason to buy the Eitr.

 

[jcn3]

I have a Bifrost Multibit with a USB input. It is the latest/greatest version only 2 months old. Is there any reason to use this USB/SPDIF converter in front of it? The only reason I can think of is it would improve the sound. If the answer is already buried in this thread, I apologize. I sifted some and didn't see it.

like @RickB indicated, you should already have the gen 5 usb in your bimby. so buying the eitr would be redundant . . .

 

[bullitt5094]

That's what I thought. Thanks for the reply folks. I really do love the BiFrost but I am actually purchasing a Lyngdorf 2170 amp which has an internal DAC as part of it's digital signal path. I may try the BiFrost with it to see what sounds better, but it's very likely the internal DAC will be a cleaner solution. I wanted to give the BiFrost it's best chance though. Looks like I'll take a hit on it when I sell it too. But that's the way the Audio Ball bounces...

 

[Letmebefrank]

That's what I thought. Thanks for the reply folks. I really do love the BiFrost but I am actually purchasing a Lyngdorf 2170 amp which has an internal DAC as part of it's digital signal path. I may try the BiFrost with it to see what sounds better, but it's very likely the internal DAC will be a cleaner solution. I wanted to give the BiFrost it's best chance though. Looks like I'll take a hit on it when I sell it too. But that's the way the Audio Ball bounces...

I was going to say that I wouldn't be surprised if the Bifrost Multibit sounds better than the internal DAC of the Lyngdorf, BUT then I read that the lyngdorf is fully digital, so it would get converted back to digital by a D/S ADC so it would ruin whatever goodness the Bifrost is making.

 

[bullitt5094]

That is correct. It is an all digital front end right up to a PWM output, so it even has an ADC component for analog input. Amazingly enough, even the turntable analog input, having gone through a digital conversion, sounds exceptional. I've compared this amp to Linear Tube Audio's Preamp and ZOTL 10. As good as the LTA pieces are, which are exceptional, I like the Lyngdorf better. Even with Vinyl as the source.

 

[Charente]

If you already have the Gen 5 USB, there is no reason to buy the Eitr.

Unless you might, perhaps, be considering the new Gadget when it's released ... Mike Moffat advised in a thread some weeks ago that for optimum listening, the Gadget (which will have Gen2 USB input) would be best served by an EITR.

 

[Delirious Lab]

Is Eitr especially sensitive to things like power fluctuations and static 'zaps'? Let me describe the issues I've been having...

First of all, I live in a rural area where the power is rather unstable. Lights flicker from time to time.

Right now I have laptop, USB hub and Eitr plugged into a power bar (nothing special, probably bought for $25). The 25-foot coax cable goes into my integrated DAC/amp which is plugged in a separate outlet, also with a power bar (probably of better quality, say $45).

Every once in a while, when listening to music and nothing else going on in the laptop, I would hear a 'click' from somewhere in the room and the sound would disappear for a second or so. Then the music resumed from the same point. At first I suspected the DAC in my integrated (Marantz PM7005) but last week I located the source of the 'click': the thermostat in the room! I got up and played with the thermostat and, there you have it, I was able to reproduce the hiccup by simply turning the dial.

Then last night, I needed to take my rig to a nearby school for a talk about classical music, and I quickly noticed that if I had walked a bit, I would get a small static 'zap' when I touched any metal in the chain - whether it was on the amp, the laptop or Eitr. (November is getting cold and dry in this part of Canada...) And this produced the same hiccup in the sound - no matter how small the shock. So I proceeded to take things off the audio chain. I was even ready to go straight analog from the computer's headphone jack (ugh...) to the amp to avoid the hiccup happening in the middle of my talk. But fortunately that wasn't necessary. The first thing I removed from the chain was Eitr. With laptop - USB hub - Marantz DAC, there was no more hiccup, no matter how much I tried to replicate the problem.

When I got back home, I reinstalled everything in the music room, only this time I swapped the power bars - this time, the better quality bar was used at the laptop/hub/Eitr end. Since then, no more issues, static or otherwise. Even the thermostat is not causing hiccups anymore.

My conclusion from all this is that Eitr (mine,at least) wants a stable power supply - perhaps more so than other pieces of equipment.

Comments?

 

[jcn3]

Comments?

i don't have an eitr, but two thoughts: (1) are you sure that your outlets are properly grounded to the circuit box (and to earth)? (2) have you tried with a shorter coax cable?

 

[Ghosthouse]

Is Eitr especially sensitive to things like power fluctuations and static 'zaps'? Let me describe the issues I've been having...

First of all, I live in a rural area where the power is rather unstable. Lights flicker from time to time.

Right now I have laptop, USB hub and Eitr plugged into a power bar (nothing special, probably bought for $25). The 25-foot coax cable goes into my integrated DAC/amp which is plugged in a separate outlet, also with a power bar (probably of better quality, say $45).

Every once in a while, when listening to music and nothing else going on in the laptop, I would hear a 'click' from somewhere in the room and the sound would disappear for a second or so. Then the music resumed from the same point. At first I suspected the DAC in my integrated (Marantz PM7005) but last week I located the source of the 'click': the thermostat in the room! I got up and played with the thermostat and, there you have it, I was able to reproduce the hiccup by simply turning the dial.

Then last night, I needed to take my rig to a nearby school for a talk about classical music, and I quickly noticed that if I had walked a bit, I would get a small static 'zap' when I touched any metal in the chain - whether it was on the amp, the laptop or Eitr. (November is getting cold and dry in this part of Canada...) And this produced the same hiccup in the sound - no matter how small the shock. So I proceeded to take things off the audio chain. I was even ready to go straight analog from the computer's headphone jack (ugh...) to the amp to avoid the hiccup happening in the middle of my talk. But fortunately that wasn't necessary. The first thing I removed from the chain was Eitr. With laptop - USB hub - Marantz DAC, there was no more hiccup, no matter how much I tried to replicate the problem.

When I got back home, I reinstalled everything in the music room, only this time I swapped the power bars - this time, the better quality bar was used at the laptop/hub/Eitr end. Since then, no more issues, static or otherwise. Even the thermostat is not causing hiccups anymore.

My conclusion from all this is that Eitr (mine,at least) wants a stable power supply - perhaps more so than other pieces of equipment.

Comments?

D Lab. - I can't comment about the quality of power supply required by Eitr. I do have mine plugged into an inexpensive APC surge protector/voltage "regulator". Not real sophisticated it just keeps the voltage +/- 10-15% or so of the nominal 110-120V incoming (something like that). Why I am writing is to caution about static. It can be a killer for gear. Same story here in Central PA as in Canada during the winter with low humidity. I hooked a length of lamp cord to the ground on another surge protector and try to remember to discharge myself by touching it before touching any gear. Built up some tough scar tissue on my index finger (just kidding).

 

[JoeKickass]

...My conclusion from all this is that Eitr (mine,at least) wants a stable power supply - perhaps more so than other pieces of equipment.

Comments?

Fun read and good troubleshooting deduction!

I tried to replicate your results by walking in socks on the carpet to charge up and then shocking myself by touching the Eitr, but no dice.
In all cases, the results were pain for me but uninterrupted music from the Eitr.

I would email Schiit and try an exchange, better to do it now and get it over with than to live with an annoying problem!

 

[Delirious Lab]

Well, I'm home and the thermostat is making the music stop again...

i don't have an eitr, but two thoughts: (1) are you sure that your outlets are properly grounded to the circuit box (and to earth)? (2) have you tried with a shorter coax cable?

(1) I'm no electrician, but the power bar has a "Grounded" indicator that lights up a bright, reassuring green.
(2) Yes, I have tried a shorter coax - same issues. But I kinda need the longer one as long as I keep the music on my PC.

I would email Schiit and try an exchange, better to do it now and get it over with than to live with an annoying problem!

Fortunately the static isn't a problem at home (I sit down almost all the time). And as I said, my rural power is rather wobbly so I don't suspect I have anything inherently wrong with my Eitr so far. Hydro-Québec is rebuilding the distribution station close to where I live so things might improve when that is done... fingers crossed.

 

[behwatch]

I have a Bifrost Multibit with a USB input. It is the latest/greatest version only 2 months old. Is there any reason to use this USB/SPDIF converter in front of it? The only reason I can think of is it would improve the sound. If the answer is already buried in this thread, I apologize. I sifted some and didn't see it.

Try out the Eitr if u can.
My 2 months of experience is that Eitr still has smoother treble than Gen5 in my Yggy.

 

[winders]

Try out the Eitr if u can.
My 2 months of experience is that Eitr still has smoother treble than Gen5 in my Yggy.

That's not what I am hearing in my Yggdrasil. I was using an Eitr but recently installed the Gen 5 USB board. I think Yggdrasil with the Gen 5 USB sounds a bit more coherent with slighter better instrument and voice separation. The bass, midrange and treble all sound great in both setups. Bass might be ever so slightly cleaner with Gen 5 USB board. If anything, it makes sense that the Gen 5 USB board would sound better than Eitr. You are getting rid of the one conversion step and a cable.