JerryLeeds
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Anyone do any comparisons between the BF2 vs RME ADI-2 DAC?
I know the feature set on the RME is huge.
I know the feature set on the RME is huge.
for Bifrost 2, assume powered by the USB cable. to confirm, try unplugging the usb, power off Bifrost 2, then plug usb back in and see if host device sees the turned-off Bifrost 2.Any of you fine folks know if the Bifrost 2 Unison USB chip is USB bus powered or is it powered via the main power circuitry? Can I use a USB cable with no 5v+ line?
Confirmed it does not show up on the PC until you flick the on switchfor Bifrost 2, assume powered by the USB cable. to confirm, try unplugging the usb, power off Bifrost 2, then plug usb back in and see if host device sees the turned-off Bifrost 2.
for Bifrost 2, assume powered by the USB cable. to confirm, try unplugging the usb, power off Bifrost 2, then plug usb back in and see if host device sees the turned-off Bifrost 2.
Confirmed it does not show up on the PC until you flick the on switch
So if the host PC does not see the USB connected BF2 until the BF2 is switched on, then that indicates that the Unison USB chip is powered by the BF2 power supply and not powered via USB 5v+ from the PC. That makes sense as that is likely one of the design features that contributes to the lower noise attributes of Unison USB. It also means I can use my custom HQ USB cables that have the 5V+ line neutered.
(And confirms that the USB controller chip in EITR and Modi MB are powered by the PC USB 5v+ as neither worked with the neutered cable, while my Topping D50 DAC does work with the neutered cable. )
Thanks!!!
That was true for Bifrost Multibit (Multibit version of Bifrost 1), which uses the same 16 bit chips as Modi Multibit and the multibit module, but Bifrost 2 (which only comes as Multibit) uses better chips now, though still a lower grade of the 18 bit chips that Gungnir Multibit uses (AD5781ARUZ vs. AD5781BRUZ), and two instead of four (since Bifrost 2 is "cheap ass balanced" while Gungnir Multibit uses two chips per channel in order to be hardware balanced).Excuse my ignorance, especially if I'm about to ask a very stupid question. I am a happy owner of a Jotunheim with Multibit DAC added.
So on the Schiit website, it states the that the Jotunheim Multibit DAC module is "Schiit’s unique digital filter and multibit DAC architecture, as used in Modi Multibit..."
And then on the Modi page, it states the DAC module is "Schiit’s unique digital filter, and using the same Analog Devices AD5547 multibit DAC as Bifrost."
The Bifrost page then states it has the same chips as the Gungnir which has the same chips as the Yggdrasil.
Does that mean by getting the Jotunheim Multibit DAC, it's the same DAC as inside the Yggdrasil? I feel like I'm misunderstanding something basic here...
Well as an owner of Gungnir MB, I can say with confidence that Gungnir sounds different 3 to 4 days after being on then on very first day. On first day it sounded cold and bright. I left it on for few days and then compared against Qutest and to my surprise I experienced dense tonality of Multibit for first time with better treble. I never switched it off after that and got better surge protector to protect it.On another forum it's not just considered established fact that the Gungnir Multibit has received a silent Analog 2 update, but that the Bifrost Multibit also has seen a change that supposedly makes it sound significantly closer to a Gungnir Multibit (Analog 1, presumably).
Call me extreme, but to confirm burn-in as the reason for sound differences, I would buy two new units at the same time, open them up to confirm there are absolutely no visible differences (Schiit silently sold a few Yggdrasil Analog 2s at the old price before announcing the change, so it's conceivable that someone ordering two units may receive one older and one newer revision), confirm that the sound is the same initially (to account for good parts/bad parts, differences in the burn-in time at Schiit HQ, etc.), then use one for, say, 200+ hours with the other one sitting in a box, then turn the new one off and let it cool down for, say 4+ hours, then turn both units on at the same time, ideally with a Y splitter for power and identical power cables. If I then hear profound differences, going back and forth with the exact same cables, transducers, etc., I would be relatively certain it's burn-in (vs. warm up, silent revisions, parts differences, etc.)