Rewiring an ER-6i just aint that hard, folks. Pics enclosed.
May 11, 2009 at 8:08 AM Post #46 of 83
Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hard. Like redesigning them.

Etymotic wouldn't accept them for warranty repair?



They did, but there warranty will only cover manafacturing defects, which I would argue this is, being a defect of the entire design. But if they won't fix it under warranty the only solution is buying a entire new set. Which is absolutely crazy, and frankly I rather pay 20 or 30 bucks to someone here to resolder it with a new cable, then 5 bucks to ship it off to them, and then who knows what i'll have to do to get it back if they don't repair them.
 
May 11, 2009 at 2:44 PM Post #47 of 83
i hear that etymotic is likely to fix them for you, but i guess it's your decision.

i hope you find someone willing to do the work for you.
 
May 12, 2009 at 8:47 AM Post #48 of 83
090-296_s.jpg


my idea is quite simple

instead of opening it up and resoldering a cable connected out and down to a 3.5mm cable, resolder a cable connected straight to one of these, mounted at the point the cable exits the headphone.

I'm almost positive one of these will fit, and it eliminates the problem with pulling on the soldering point, not to mention provides for interchangeable cabling.

The only problem is I'm not sure if its possible to link p to mono 3.5m cables into a stereo cable. I would think it would be but I just dont have the experience, as all the cans I've seen with their own plugs use RCA.
 
Jun 24, 2009 at 3:52 PM Post #53 of 83
I just want to say that this is a damn good thread, i followed it step by step and it all went flawlessly.

I too used a set of iphone earbuds and the worked great, the colors of the wires even matched up, took about twenty minutes.

The one thing i am having a hard time with is finding clear shrink tubing in the right size, does anyone have any suggestions?
 
Jun 24, 2009 at 4:01 PM Post #54 of 83
The stuff i used was clearly marked 5/8" but some people have used 1/2" tubing. Mine was polyolefin but PVDF / Kynar or PVC should be just fine too. Just don't get the adhesive kind.

I'm lucky because i can buy it locally, but the store i get it from is not a chain.

It's not hard to find online.
 
Jul 8, 2009 at 7:24 AM Post #55 of 83
Hi all,

The cable in my Er-6i broke somewhere and I figure this is an opportunity to recable them.

Two questions, if I may:
1) I have twisted pairs of 26AWG wires; would a pair fit through each shell and, if so, would it be too tight still?
2) What kind of tip size should I be using to de/-solder the wires on the PCBs? The tip that came stock with my Weller station is possibly too large.

Thanks!
 
Apr 12, 2010 at 6:38 AM Post #56 of 83
I just performed the whole procedure but unfortunately the earphones still don't work. Could it be that I overheated and damaged driver? does anybody have problems with driver overheating and maybe solution to the problem?
 
Apr 12, 2010 at 9:04 AM Post #57 of 83
Hopefully the OP can still answer this question, but with the iBud cable did you put the knot back in for strain relief? Or does the rubber band type thing provide enough strain relief?

Thanks
 
Apr 13, 2010 at 5:43 AM Post #58 of 83
Quote:

Originally Posted by Artemka /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I just performed the whole procedure but unfortunately the earphones still don't work. Could it be that I overheated and damaged driver? does anybody have problems with driver overheating and maybe solution to the problem?


So, you replaced the cable completely and they still don't work?

If so, very puzzling. If you held the iron on the solder pads for a very long time, you could have damaged the driver, but I'd bet that the plastic frame would have warped as well from that kind of heat.

I suppose it's possible that there is some other failure mode for these IEMs and we just never heard about it before.
 
May 26, 2010 at 12:41 PM Post #59 of 83
 
I wanted to say thanks for this thread.   I came across this thread and remembered I had one half of a pair of ER-6is (the result of an unfortunate gardening accident!  :) sitting in a drawer.  What I did with it is a bit different than the others in this thread have done, but it was inspired by the folks here.
 
So...
 
When I'm out and about in public, I like to listen to a single ear so I can still hear people when they talk to me, and otherwise stay aware of the environment around me.  With normal IEMs this can be a bit of an issue because you have to tuck the loose IEM somewhere and you always run the risk of having it getting caught on something and ripped off and otherwise just being a pain.
 
I've also recently picked up a Jabra Clipper which allows me to listen to music and answer the phone for when I'm commuting.   What would be optimal, is if I had a "pair" of IEMs with only one headset.  Hey, I have a loose ER-6i sitting in a drawer...
 
I also have been recently playing with two part silicone for DIY custom earplugs and I just broke a iPod sync cable. I broke the iPod cable down and found it had four wires, two a bit larger, stiffer and with fewer strands, but two that were pretty thin (maybe 32g?) but had more strands and were pretty supple.
 
OK, what the heck, let's give it a try.  First, I made a ear mold with about half of a earplug kit.  This is the normal amount since you are supposed to split it in half -- one for each ear.  I was a bit more aggressive pushing it in however since I figured I was going to be adding more material after I fitted the ER-6i.  So the mold is a bit concave.  I also found something to use as a 1" bite block per advice in other threads about getting good molds for custom IEMS.  OK, good so far.
 

 
Note, it is a bit harder to remove when it is pushed in so far, but we'll add more material later.
 

 
In my other thread, I mentioned using a drill to make the hole wasn't optimal and had been thinking about using a sharpened tube.  I rummaged around the garage and this was the closest thing I had on-hand (don't all DIY projects start in the middle of the night?):
 

 

 
Yep, that works MUCH better.
 

 

 
Mistake 1:  I didn't clean the tube first.  This left the hole dirty and the stuff basically doesn't come off.  Clean the tube before using.
 
Last time I had used a (large) drill bit to make a hole for the IEM, but that was pretty dicey and I thought I'd try something different this time.  I noticed a "V" woodcarving tool and thought I'd give it a shot.  Note a "U" would be a lot better, but I didn't have one handy.
 

 

 
That worked a lot better -- more control, but of course, be very careful if you do this, it would be very easy to cut yourself.  I ended up doing a lot more work, and sometimes got distracted and forgot to take pictures.  In the end, I used the "V", a flat bladed woodworking knife, and small scalpel.
 
I decided I'd use *two* strands of the wire per side to provide additional strength.  This is intended as a commuter IEM and will probably get a bit of abuse.  I twisted each wire in a drill, then twisted them together.
 
Then I realized my iron was a bit big.  Since this was going to be in a mold, I just decided to trim the plastic away with a nipper.  OK, soldered.  Yes, I melted the insulation a bit.  Turns out I'm pretty rusty with the old iron and I was pretty tired and impatient.
 

 
Mistake 2:  Make sure you have the right tools before you start the job, go slow, etc.
 
I decided I'd just cover the end with epoxy so the unit would be strong and avoid straining the wires.  Luckily I had some 5 minute epoxy in the garage.
 

 
Well, that worked... VERY poorly.  I don't know if the epoxy was too old, or cold from being in the garage or what, but it didn't set up.  Eventually after about a half hour I decided to proceed anyway.  I think the epoxy idea was good, even if my execution totally failed.  I had tested after soldering, but I managed to break the flex after inserting into the sleeve (you have to manhandle it a bit to push it down in there).  I had already sealed it up, so I had to cut it out and solder a jumper in place of each trace on the flex.
 
Mistake 3: Slow down.  When something doesn't work out, don't just push ahead.  I should have waited overnight for the epoxy to dry, and got some new epoxy the next day to finish up.
 
I had intended to put a light coat of epoxy on, insert it into the mold, then add a bit more epoxy which would have fitted the mold to give it extra security.  After the epoxy problem, I didn't do that, although in hindsight, my plan was good and I should have stuck to it.
 
It was pretty late, and I wanted to use it the next day, so I pushed on.  I just sealed things up with the remaining silicon.
 
Mistake 4:  I should have put a loop in the wire inside the mold to provide strain relief.  I didn't think of this till later.  Probably would be best in this case to do a loose loop, not a small knot. 
 
OK, I soldered up the plug.  I was thinking about potting the end with epoxy and using silicone as a strain relief, but the epoxy was right out, so I "potted" it with silicone and then used the silicone as a strain relief.
 

 
Mistake 5:  Misjudged how much the shrink wrap would shrink.  I thought I could taper the end down to the wire size with the silicone providing less and less resistance, but the tube didn't shrink down enough so I ended up just trimming it down.  Since I had intended to cover it with shrink wrap, I hadn't worried about making the silicone too pretty, but now it is visible.
 
Mistake 6:  Melted the insulation with the heat gun.  Again, it comes back to being too impatient.
 
Mistakes aside, while it isn't the most beautiful earpiece, I'm happy with the total effect.  It works well, it cost me pretty much nothing.  And the ER-6i head that was gathering dust is now a usable headset.  Heck, I had almost thrown it away!
 

 

 
[[full size pics in gallery]]
 
Again, thanks everyone for inspiring me to get off my rear and do this.
 
-john
 
May 27, 2010 at 12:46 AM Post #60 of 83

 
Quote:
 
I wanted to say thanks for this thread.   I came across this thread and remembered I had one half of a pair of ER-6is (the result of an unfortunate gardening accident!  :) sitting in a drawer.  What I did with it is a bit different than the others in this thread have done, but it was inspired by the folks here.

 
You're a madman!
 
And yet this gives me ideas for improvement 'cause you're still using half the original internal frame. Most of the custom IEMs seem to just have armatures floating in silicone.
 
I wonder how they do it. Do they use the silicone mold taken from the ear to make a plaster mold to make a 2nd silicone piece with the void already in it? that would certainly be more straightforward than creating  void in the solid silicone.
 
I don't know how durable the armature driver is when it's separated from the plastic housing - if we knew it was totally durable, you could put a single hole through the silicone end to end and just use a tool to force it in, then seal up the back end. I doubt it's that durable - you probably need two diameters to the void.
 
Edit: But on 2nd thought, Ety drivers need the tube and filter to create the correct frequency response. Nevermind.
 

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