Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Nov 10, 2008 at 12:14 AM Post #7,771 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by x_lk /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The HDAM is attached to the socket via extension cable. It is then glued to the bottom of chassis by double side adhesive tape. I guess you are right, the 'AG' on PCB is the name of manufacturer. Which pin is the ground then? Somebody answers me, please ... anyone?



Hi,
Do any of these Pix of the Earth help?

н¨ÍøÒ³ 1
 
Nov 10, 2008 at 1:25 AM Post #7,772 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by StratCat /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Re: Multicomp ElectricalMechanical|MC21025|Switch Knob | Newark Canada

Just a quickie update:

I got mine from Newark USA, and it's a pretty good fit aesthetically and physically. It fits the Zero's front panel knob recess indentation diameter just about perfectly. Depth offeset is pretty close, tho could use maybe 1/16th" (~1-2mm) more depth to fit deeper into the front panel recess in a perfect world. But that's really a very minor quibble most ppl wouldn't even notice. It fits and looks pretty darn close to OEM, IMHO. Aesthetically, it's a perfect match.

There's a recessed set screw hole that may be visible dependant on the knob's rotation position, and the set screw needs to be really snugged down for a tight fit, since the Vpot's shaft is scored for a press-fit knob, not a slide on knob with a set screw like this one, and the knob can move few degrees perpendicular to the front panel unless fully tightened.

But I am really being very highly critical and detailed here (since I didn't post pics). It looks pretty much OEM spec'd and OEM quality, TBH. I'm happy with it.
k701smile.gif


I'll try to get some pics up soon.



Thanks for the update! I had just assumed it was a push on torx style, not set screw but 10 seconds will a dremel on the output shaft and I'll be set. We need pictures though!
 
Nov 10, 2008 at 1:35 AM Post #7,773 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by MasZakrY /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks for the update! I had just assumed it was a push on torx style, not set screw but 10 seconds will a dremel on the output shaft and I'll be set. We need pictures though!


How does it feel as far as weight is concerned?
 
Nov 10, 2008 at 2:05 AM Post #7,774 of 9,388
Nov 10, 2008 at 2:21 AM Post #7,775 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by les_garten /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hi,
Do any of these Pix of the Earth help?

н¨ÍøÒ³ 1



Thank you! Unfortunately LC ships a different HDAM, based on a previous post, it's Earth equivalent, but not the same. It does not have the ground tail like the three shown in these pics.
 
Nov 10, 2008 at 2:32 AM Post #7,776 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by x_lk /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thank you! Unfortunately LC ships a different HDAM, based on a previous post, it's Earth equivalent, but not the same. It does not have the ground tail like the three shown in these pics.


This pic shows the gnd wire from the first gen HDAM attached to the pcb hold down screw near the DAC socket.

I know it doesn't show precisely where the gnd wire is attached but it's on a pin that traverses the two halves (channels ) of the HDAM unit tieing the gnd's together. The length of wire seen in the pic is the extension of that gnd plane.




I wouldn't worry about it to much at this point. Just make sure it doesn't touch anything causing a short, if you don't use it (for now).

That's an old pic ...my Frankie has changed quite a bit since then (the H/Amp section most of all ).


Peete.
 
Nov 10, 2008 at 2:37 AM Post #7,777 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif
is the buzz only when you TOUCH the knob to move it?

I would suspect you are not getting a good ground, or you have leaky cables (not well shielded). are your cables long at all?

have you tried grounding the zero chassis with thick braid (or similar) from the zero chassis to your source?

also, does it matter if its opto or coax input to get the buzz, for you?



the buzz happen all the time,is the same sound level when i tough the knob and louder when I tough the case
you have leaky cables
You mean signal cable or power ? I think my signal is ok ,
and how to ground the zero chassis with thick braid (or similar) from the zero chassis to your source ? (you mean from the zero case to the ground or ???
Thank for your reply
 
Nov 10, 2008 at 5:31 AM Post #7,778 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by leothan /img/forum/go_quote.gif
the buzz happen all the time,is the same sound level when i tough the knob and louder when I tough the case
you have leaky cables
You mean signal cable or power ? I think my signal is ok ,
and how to ground the zero chassis with thick braid (or similar) from the zero chassis to your source ? (you mean from the zero case to the ground or ???
Thank for your reply



Check to see if the pot ground wire is there or not, if it is it may need to be re soldered. If there is no wire add one as shown in the pic.

Make sure opamps/HDAM's are fully seated in their sockets. Sometimes these can cause noise if not inserted all the way. It's pretty unlikely this is your problem or the cause of the noise. I'm willing to bet it's your pot ground wire.

Heres a pic of the wire and it's location. Please note my pot in the pic is the upgraded Alps.

AlpsGroundwire.jpg



Peete
 
Nov 10, 2008 at 2:06 PM Post #7,783 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by leothan /img/forum/go_quote.gif
@Pricklely Peete thank you very much ,the wire really works,now all the noise is disappeared


Who did you buy it from?
 
Nov 10, 2008 at 2:07 PM Post #7,784 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by sandchak /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hats off to Pete.. the post sorted my problem too.. well, looking at his mods and upgraded Zero.. I am having a headache thinking how I much I can ( I have to) do make these Zeros shine..
Thanks again



Where did you buy yours from?
 

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