Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Sep 29, 2008 at 4:27 PM Post #6,931 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I hear you that it doesn't seem fair that you got questioned, but I've been thinking about this... how many of these things do you think they've given away for free by now? If the purpose of giving samples is in the hopes that one will then come back and make a big purchase, I could see how they'd get frustrated with a bunch of head-fi'ers looking for freebies, with no intention of actually purchasing anything ever... I wondered that from the first time I heard about it. Just thinking about the other side is all.
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Actually, the sample programs are geared to commercial use of their products (i.e. 1st party engineering, OEM, consulting, etc.) where the product may end up used in a design which will be manufactured. If you are incorporated or an LLC, or have a business address, you will very easily get samples, even those products that aren't listed in "official" sample programs, and at higher quantities than suggested on the websites, if desired.
 
Sep 29, 2008 at 4:49 PM Post #6,932 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I hear you that it doesn't seem fair that you got questioned, but I've been thinking about this... how many of these things do you think they've given away for free by now? If the purpose of giving samples is in the hopes that one will then come back and make a big purchase, I could see how they'd get frustrated with a bunch of head-fi'ers looking for freebies, with no intention of actually purchasing anything ever... I wondered that from the first time I heard about it. Just thinking about the other side is all.
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I know that, but the production cost is so minimal that it's worth it, to build the company name.....
We care for quality and like their product, it's a big advertisement.

The problem is: such IC here costs more than $25 a piece.....

But a friend from Brazil sold me two LT1364 along with opa632 and hd-650 for cheap.... this way I could upgrade my zero and enjoy it even more....
biggrin.gif
 
Sep 29, 2008 at 4:50 PM Post #6,933 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by bundee1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Which one of these would I request or even buy from somewhere else later?
Package Variations and Pricing
Part Number Package Pins Temp Price (1-99) Price (1k)* RoHS Data
LT1364CN8 PDIP 8 C $4.58 $3.70 View
LT1364CN8#PBF PDIP 8 C $4.58 $3.70 View
LT1364CS8 SO 8 C $4.80 $3.85 View
LT1364CS8#PBF SO 8 C $4.80 $3.85 View
LT1364CS8#TR SO 8 C $3.91 View
LT1364CS8#TRPBF SO 8 C $3.91 View




Now you got me.... but I'm pretty sure it's one of these:
LT1364CN8 PDIP 8 C $4.58 $3.70 View
LT1364CN8#PBF PDIP 8 C $4.58 $3.70 View




Diego
 
Sep 29, 2008 at 6:06 PM Post #6,934 of 9,388
its true that this thread and our sample requests are helping promote linear tech because lawrence must be orderin quantities fronm somewhere to upgrade all the zeros he is selling.

are you sure that its the ones with the pdip designation? if that's the case then your recommendations are good. the pbf at the end only means its lead free.
 
Sep 29, 2008 at 6:40 PM Post #6,935 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by bundee1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
its true that this thread and our sample requests are helping promote linear tech because lawrence must be orderin quantities fronm somewhere to upgrade all the zeros he is selling.

are you sure that its the ones with the pdip designation? if that's the case then your recommendations are good. the pbf at the end only means its lead free.



Thank you for making my point of view valid.
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Well PDIP and SO are the packages type.
From wiki:
Howto identify chip packages - Wikihowto: a howto site anyone can edit

Zero uses DIP package for DAC and Head Amp op-amps.

PDIP is Plastic DIP.

So I guess there's no mistake....
biggrin.gif


Diego
 
Sep 29, 2008 at 8:09 PM Post #6,937 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ccschua /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The website "our first generation discrete opamp" actually refers to the HDAM which is marketed under Bursons (they got the rights).

OPA-earth is the second generation discrete opamp design with the same circuit as HDAM. Below is the improvement made to the OPA-Earth :

1. OPA Earth has been improved with new parameters values used in the components. Its output sound quality is more stable across wider supply voltage as compared to HDAM which may deteriote with lower input voltage.

2. OPA Earth is more stable with better transparency as compared to old design.

3. Given the change in parameters, the sound quality difference between with and without ground connection is minimized.

In addition to changes in component values, one distinct difference is the BJT used in the attached photo. When working near its full load condition, Old design (HDAM) is affected more negatively by the sound quality, stability and life value as compared to OPA Earth. OPA Earth, with a bigger capacity BJT, has more capacity to perform.



I contacted Lawrence because I want to buy a Zero DAC with some upgrades. He offers a version with HDAM and 2x LT1364. I asked him what kind of HDAM it is, whether it is Burson, Earth, or Sun, and he replied with this:

"Dear sir,

Burson is the serious version among the 3 types. It use more FETs and transistors than other 2 models. Burson sell $120 in their website and it show they are expensive and higher value than the others. I sell $50/module burson. Actually , earth and sun is only a simpler version and less serious version of Burson. "

But according to ccschua, Burson is the older version of Earth and Sun, so would Lawrence be out of date or lying to me just so I decide to buy from him?
 
Sep 29, 2008 at 8:25 PM Post #6,938 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hey AP, was wondering if you could refresh my memory...

I remember a while back, you (like me) tried the Sun HDAM first, and (also like me) really liked it. You said you briefly listened to the Earth but weren't impressed. Then later went back and gave the Earth a real chance...

I've just swapped out my Sun for the Earth (finally) and was wondering if you could take me thru that experience again (or at least link me to the old posts)? You ended up settling on the Earth, right?

If you could help me out, I'd appreciate your time.

ScottieB



Hiya Scott.

Yeah, I initially loved the sun. It sings in a way the Earth never has done. With my old HD480II Senns, the difference was big and likeable. But once I got my Stax rig, the Sun was overly bright and quickly fatiguing. I swapped it over for the Earth and whilst I was disappointed for a couple of days, once my ears had adjusted to the more neutral Earth, it was far more likeable.

The Sun is great - it emphasises the sparkly bits of a recording, whilst giving a bit more slam to the lower regions. Swapping over to the Earth, the detail and punch was immediately lacking. But after using the Earth for a few days, going back to the Sun makes the sound uncomfortable and very tiring extremely quickly.

If I didn't have the Stax rig, then I dare say I'd have still been using the Sun. Its liveliness works well with them... but the Sun is just too darned sparkly with the Stax. It makes a very enjoyable hobby extremely hard work, and does so very quickly.

Both are different. With a lot of setups, and ears, then the Earth will be the winner purely for its natural sound. But if your ears and headphones prefer the signature of the Sun, then sod them - use what sounds best to you. It's your experience at the end of the day, there's no point going by what someone else has said if your ears aren't enjoying it as much
smily_headphones1.gif
.

~Phewl.
 
Sep 29, 2008 at 8:30 PM Post #6,939 of 9,388
Thanks, AP. Yeah - I'm a former grado head (BRIGHT) who has switched over to the Senn HD600 (DARK!) so what you said makes perfect sense - perhaps the Sun just brought out more of the bright stuff in my new darker headphones.

Either way, I've only got about 50 hours on the Earth - so I will certainly give it its due time and then we'll see. And fear not - my ears are the only ones that matter in this house (just don't tell the wife)!
smily_headphones1.gif


Thanks for responding!
 
Sep 29, 2008 at 8:40 PM Post #6,940 of 9,388
We're all different mate. Don't be afraid to go "against the grain" if what you're hearing works best for you. The opinion of me, Peete, or even Andrea - it's all useless if you don't enjoy something.

Trust your own gut
smily_headphones1.gif
.

~Phewl.
 
Sep 30, 2008 at 12:47 AM Post #6,943 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioPhewl /img/forum/go_quote.gif
We're all different mate. Don't be afraid to go "against the grain" if what you're hearing works best for you. The opinion of me, Peete, or even Andrea - it's all useless if you don't enjoy something.

Trust your own gut
smily_headphones1.gif
.

~Phewl.



Hehe but some are more useless than others
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.......gimme an A......gimme an N....gimme a D......ah forget it
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Heres some pics of the MC-7R Tube Preamp cap upgrade.

Your gonna flip ScottieB !!!!!
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MeiXingMC-7RUpgradedrawingwiringgui.jpg


Preliminary drawing after mock up

MeiXingMC-7RUpgrade007.jpg


Placement finalizing, then off to drill 18 holes into the bottom plate to affix caps and allow wiring harnesses access to all they need to get to
smily_headphones1.gif


Bottomplatecapsinstalledwaitingf-4.jpg


Test fit of plate (it's a perfect fit) with caps affixed waiting to be wired in....

Bottomplatecapsinstalledwaitingf-3.jpg


Angled shot of the previous.

Man I hate drilling mild steel without a proper drill press......still I did a good job with a hand drill .....took quite a while to drill those holes even with titanium bits. (10 x 1/4 inch and 8 x 3/8 inch).

Hopefully by late afternoon tomorrow she be ready for the first power up....

This mod is simply replacing all the garbage MKP film caps for PLIO and pure Teflons. 4 x 1uf 500V PLIO's (the huge green buggers), 4 x .1uf 600V Teflon, and 4 x .033uf 500V Teflon.

Should be very interesting to hear what this may do for the amp....I'm betting it completely opens it up....

Peete.

PS Please note the 2 large 1uf caps at the bottom (near the RCA outputs) are bypassed by 2 .033uf 500V Teflons (the smallest caps used in this case). This amp is truly heavy for a preamp, it has large transformer and a choke. I'd say the amps weighs at 35 lbs now....needs to go on a diet ....(not gonna happen)
smily_headphones1.gif

Cheers all !!!
beerchug.gif
 
Sep 30, 2008 at 12:56 AM Post #6,944 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by cdingdong /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I contacted Lawrence because I want to buy a Zero DAC with some upgrades. He offers a version with HDAM and 2x LT1364. I asked him what kind of HDAM it is, whether it is Burson, Earth, or Sun, and he replied with this:

"Dear sir,

Burson is the serious version among the 3 types. It use more FETs and transistors than other 2 models. Burson sell $120 in their website and it show they are expensive and higher value than the others. I sell $50/module burson. Actually , earth and sun is only a simpler version and less serious version of Burson. "

But according to ccschua, Burson is the older version of Earth and Sun, so would Lawrence be out of date or lying to me just so I decide to buy from him?



That's not what LC told me at all....sounds like someone else to me. Burson's HDAM is audio-gd first gen....period...end of story....Earth is second generation.....what CC posted is correct.

That being said I can discern no SQ advantage over the first gen HDAM or the second generation...so it's not all that important in the big picture. I have both types. The LC module and 2 Earth modules.....so....


Peete.
 
Sep 30, 2008 at 1:08 AM Post #6,945 of 9,388
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I finally got my pair of OPA627BPs off of fleabay delivered today, they didn't have the crescent notch like most IC's seem to have, so I oriented the end that had the little shiny circle closer to it towards the crescent notches on the dual 8-dip adapter I got (also from ebay)

I plugged it into my zero with the crescent notches on the adapter sockets facing the same direction as the notch on the zero board and got lots of weird popping and heavily distorted sound. So, somewhat nervously I pulled out the adapter and flipped it 180* so that the notches on the adapter board were in the opposite direction of the notch on the zero's socket. When I turned it back on that way it sounded good and no more weird pops or distortion.

That is where I should have stopped, but no, I didn't. Without really taking any time to think about it or further investigate the issue I thought that the adapter board may have been somehow wired backwards. So in my great lack of wisdom I flipped the opa627s 180* in the adapter sockets and plugged the adapter back in with the crescent notches on the adapter matching the notch on the zero's socket. When I switched the power back on I found that I had just let the magic smoke out of my 15 minute old opa627s. Luckily the Zero was unharmed when I plugged the old 2604 back in.

So after swearing and kicking myself for a while tonight I decided I wanted to share my tale of noobish stupidity and then ask why the adapter seemed to work properly when it was installed the wrong way but not when the notches were lined up. And see if it was my lack of knowledge that led to my fried chips or if it was the adapters that were to blame. For reference, I used these adapters from tube buyer on ebay. http://http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-Dual-t...742.m153.l1262
 

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