Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Nov 11, 2008 at 7:32 AM Post #7,816 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif

I still believe buying a Zero is a safe bet. Thanks to everyone's hard work in this thread, the small number of problem Zero's identified here, get fixed by the owners, and very, very few will ever have to return their Zero's to China for a fix. This thread has just about every fix known, and the help you can get here is some of the best I have seen on HeadFi. With this kind of backing, I would buy another Zero in a heart beat! You guys are the best!!
beerchug.gif


Pench



Hi,
I had also thought these were aberrations and read over LC's Ebay FB to see who complained about what. I didn't find any Zero problems. He had some other complaints for some other stuff, but if you've sold anything on Ebay, you know that can happen. However, it is disconcerting to fire up a box and have it go "poof" because the Opamps were installed backwards or the HDAM was connected backwards on one end.

I think he's doing well on these boxes if you look at what Chinese workers make. He should eat the shipping both ways if something has to go back to the Motherland due to ineptitude. That would kill his profit I am sure and that's why he doesn't want to do it.

Les
 
Nov 11, 2008 at 11:58 AM Post #7,818 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Sandchak,

Double check the 627 opamp in the dac section socket. If it's the AU form factor (the small adapter with an over under chip arrangement) it's possible it's been installed backwards or was poorly assembled. If it was then it will cook itself when you turn the unit on with little or vastly distorted signal being passed to the analog outs or the H/Amp section. That's one possibility, another is checking to make sure the H/Amp opamps are also installed correctly. The crescent or cutouts on the IC's themselves should all face towards the rear panel. If you can take a pic of the opamps as they are now before taking them out that would be very helpful. Post the pic and maybe we can spot something obvious.

Another possibility, and this is a remote one, is the vol pot is bad or the relay used to engage the preamp is faulty. In any event the line out or line level should function if you are hearing faint music with the cans plugged in.

One more idea, do you have another amp to run that line level signal to (other than your computer speakers) to establish if it's a conflict with the computer speakers themselves. Like a cheap receiver or integrated amp with either a head phone output or hooked up to your speakers (a regular pair, not the computer speakers).

One other test to try....isolate your computer speakers completely from the computer and only run the RCA outs from the Zero to the computer speaker inputs (2 channel stereo only) Make sure you have selected the Front pair of speakers if it's a MC setup. The only connection to the computer being the optical out.

Another option to try is making sure you don't have a level in your CP mixer low or muted, a driver conflict or configuration problem (such as 5.1 vs 2.1 etc...).

That's a lot of things to try and I hope you can get your problem nailed down soon. It seems to me that if you can hear music than it's a possible easy fix that is being overlooked somewhere.

One last note...a blown opamp will pass some signal so that's no sign of them working properly. The gain level between a blown opamp and one working properly is huge.

One more I thought of...pull the pcbs to check for shorts anywhere...untrimmed legs touching the chassis, sloppy solder clean up causing a short...gently, ever so slightly, flex the pcb's to see if anything changes while passing a signal through the DAC and H/Amp sections. Another trick is wiggle the 1/4 in jack in the Zero's H/Amp socket...it may have a cold solder joint, check the solder joints on the pot as well with a gentle flex of the pcb while powered. Visually inspect the pots solder points.

Make sure the 2 cables (of the 4 wires each) running to and from each board along the right hand side are fully seated and finally...make sure the two black power connectors are fully seated (one is the upper left hand side and the other a small 3pin on the H/amp board ).

A real quick test to see if the 627 is buggered is to try one of the H/Amp opamps in the DAC section's socket. Again this will only allow for a line level output to another amp (with speakers).

That should narrow a few of the possibilities that come to mind.

Good luck and report back...

Peete.



Hi Peete, I had some free time, so I took these 2 pics (sorry I have a horrible camera..).

I think by the pics you can make out the the opamps are the type you mentioned and placed rightly.
Actually from the beginning I have not involved the PC, just the CD player > Zero> Speakers (klipsch 2.0 active), I also ran the same setup minus the Zero from the headphone out of the CD player to the speakers and it worked fine.

I should exclude problem with digital cables or speakers because it works fine in other setups.
I also pulled out mt NAD C541i CD player and attached the ZERO useing the vandenhull RCS as coaxial - NO Sound again..
All the wire connections you said to check, are placed as it should be.. I havent yet opened the board to see the stuffs behind, But I am waiting for the sellers reply, and I want to hear what he says before taking things apart..
Well, its bad because I bought this ONLY for the speakers as the PH100 is on its way that I would use for the headphones..
BTW, I just heard from a courier that 3 pcs of LM4562NA opamps should reach me tommorow?? Can I do anything with that? I have no clues about single and dual opamps, so I dont know if those can be placed on the ZERO opamps socket just to see if it makes any difference..

I dont know how to thank you.. but then.. Thank you..

 
Nov 11, 2008 at 1:27 PM Post #7,819 of 9,388
Sandchak, check if the voltage switch at Zero's back is correct.
 
Nov 11, 2008 at 1:37 PM Post #7,821 of 9,388
The unit would not turn on if that setting was incorrect, Georgia is 220V, if the voltage setting was to be incorrect (110V) the unit would have blown a couple of caps already, no lights, that's not the problem, do not touch that setting!

EDIT
sandchak got it first
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Nov 11, 2008 at 2:51 PM Post #7,822 of 9,388
Just for info : RE Buzzing Transformer in UK.

I tried a step transformer 240 - 110 V, and then selected 110v on the amp, and all the transformer noise has gone, quiet as a mouse.

Guess I'll look for a new transformer thats not going to buzz in the UK, better than a big lump tha I've then got to hide.

Cheers
 
Nov 11, 2008 at 4:13 PM Post #7,823 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by sandchak /img/forum/go_quote.gif
checked - its on 220 ( which is correct..)
Thank you



Does the headphone sound work well? Can you get high volume without distortion?
 
Nov 11, 2008 at 6:49 PM Post #7,824 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by BigTony /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Just for info : RE Buzzing Transformer in UK.

I tried a step transformer 240 - 110 V, and then selected 110v on the amp, and all the transformer noise has gone, quiet as a mouse.

Guess I'll look for a new transformer thats not going to buzz in the UK, better than a big lump tha I've then got to hide.

Cheers



Grrr, spoke too soon :frowning2: It was quiet for about 4 hours, but now its back to buzzin.. I'm guessing that all isn't well with this transformer.

Bugger.
 
Nov 11, 2008 at 7:50 PM Post #7,825 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by BigTony /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Grrr, spoke too soon :frowning2: It was quiet for about 4 hours, but now its back to buzzin.. I'm guessing that all isn't well with this transformer.

Bugger.



Harmonics from a dirty power line may cause transformer to hum as well. Try another power bar or outlet if you can. Keep distance from high power appliances, such as oven and refrigerator. Just my two cents.
 
Nov 11, 2008 at 9:45 PM Post #7,826 of 9,388
It hums no matter where it gets plugged in, it starts off quiet then over 4+ hours it gets louder.
 
Nov 12, 2008 at 4:37 AM Post #7,827 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by les_garten /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Does the headphone sound work well? Can you get high volume without distortion?


Works absolutely fine, yes it does seem to distort at very high volume, but the the 701s that I have is barely 5 days old and still in the process of burning..
 
Nov 12, 2008 at 10:24 AM Post #7,828 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by sandchak /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Works absolutely fine, yes it does seem to distort at very high volume, but the the 701s that I have is barely 5 days old and still in the process of burning..


I may have spotted something in one of the pics you posted. There are 4 x 47uf 10V coupling caps (Elna Silmic) near the 2 voltage regulators on the lower right hand corner of the main pcb (if the front faceplate is towards you as normal).

I can't tell for sure but it looks like one or all of those caps are not installed correctly according to their polarity. The shaded side silk screening on the pcb itself denotes - or negative pole. All electrolytic caps will have a negative indicator stripe (can't miss it ). Check the whole main board to make sure all the electrolytic caps are installed correctly just to be safe.

Someone else of late had one those coupling caps installed incorrectly by the factory although he was still getting sound but at reduced output to that channel (it was one of four in backwards).

Hopefully that's the ticket.

Peete.
 
Nov 12, 2008 at 10:36 AM Post #7,829 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I may have spotted something in one of the pics you posted. There are 4 x 47uf 10V coupling caps (Elna Silmic) near the 2 voltage regulators on the lower right hand corner of the main pcb (if the front faceplate is towards you as normal).

I can't tell for sure but it looks like one or all of those caps are not installed correctly according to their polarity. The shaded side silk screening on the pcb itself denotes - or negative pole. All electrolytic caps will have a negative indicator stripe (can't miss it ). Check the whole main board to make sure all the electrolytic caps are installed correctly just to be safe.

Someone else of late had one those coupling caps installed incorrectly by the factory although he was still getting sound but at reduced output to that channel (it was one of four in backwards).

Hopefully that's the ticket.

Peete.



Thanks million, Peete, I will surely check on that.. in the meantime I have received 3 X LM4562NA opamps, can I replace that with the current 627 and see if its the opamp which maybe the culprit???...
 
Nov 12, 2008 at 10:09 PM Post #7,830 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by BigTony /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Grrr, spoke too soon :frowning2: It was quiet for about 4 hours, but now its back to buzzin.. I'm guessing that all isn't well with this transformer.

Bugger.



I ordered a DAC from Lawrence a few months back, which turned out to be faulty(think I might have been the first on here to get stung by him, he ignored me completely and I ended up instigating a chargeback against PayPal for the amount via my bank).

Anyway, the DAC PCB was the cause of the fault. My recollection is that there was no hum from the transformer, but it was several months ago now.

I've still got it here, you can have it for the cost of post and a pint of Guinness if you want?
smily_headphones1.gif


~Phewl.
 

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