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Review: Woo Audio WA6 vs. WA6SE (stock units)
Oct 28, 2008 at 4:21 AM Post #31 of 508
Oh thingys works in the right circle. That thingy there, the one with four do-dads and a thing-a-bajobber with two legs welded to it.
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 4:23 AM Post #32 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by tommytomickey /img/forum/go_quote.gif
biggrin.gif



STOP POST WHORING TO BUMP YOUR POST COUNT!
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 4:32 AM Post #33 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif
STOP POST WHORING TO BUMP YOUR POST COUNT!


I am sorry I can't help myself.

Ok, it's the other guy. So I guess he is doing it so he can sell on the FS site?

So there are some other changes to the SE. It has DC to the filaments, more filtering, directly coupled sections, a delay on circuit, different output transformers, and a few other things.

Can someone measure the voltage on the tubes?
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 4:34 AM Post #34 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Oh thingys works in the right circle. That thingy there, the one with four do-dads and a thing-a-bajobber with two legs welded to it.


John, what about that dang deal over there? The one next to the thing-a-bajobber?

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict

STOP POST WHORING TO BUMP YOUR POST COUNT!

Sorry about that.
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 4:41 AM Post #35 of 508
Thanks for the impressions - confirmed I suspected: that, although the benefit of the SE is incremental, it is non-insignificant.
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 4:57 AM Post #36 of 508
The SE has the room for a battery bias for the tubes. That would be sweet. Also the resistor between pins should be of highest quality as it will affect the sound. The metal films often have a slightly high frequency whitish sound and isn't noticed until compared to something like a good carbon or tantalum (no longer available). Also the cathode bias cap is 220uf. I find that a 470uf gives a little better bass at sometimes, a slight decrease in mids but not always. I use a 470uf on my 6 for the bypass. Also the cathode bypass resistor is important and again I would use a carbon or go battery bias and do away with the resistor and cap.
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:00 AM Post #37 of 508
you guys know I quoted "tommytomickey" with that "post whore" comment. He's been posting smileys all over freaking head-fi to bump his post count - then he got tired of that and told everyone in the full size headphone forum to look for his eBay auction for ATH-ESW9.
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:08 AM Post #38 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I am sorry I can't help myself.

Ok, it's the other guy. So I guess he is doing it so he can sell on the FS site?

So there are some other changes to the SE. It has DC to the filaments, more filtering, directly coupled sections, a delay on circuit, different output transformers, and a few other things.

Can someone measure the voltage on the tubes?


john, i'm getting 205v from pin one and 62v at pin six.
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:20 AM Post #39 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif
you guys know I quoted "tommytomickey" with that "post whore" comment. He's been posting smileys all over freaking head-fi to bump his post count - then he got tired of that and told everyone in the full size headphone forum to look for his eBay auction for ATH-ESW9.


Is there a way to ban him from this forum?
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:24 AM Post #40 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by takezo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
john, i'm getting 205v from pin one and 62v at pin six.


How does that voltage compare to the standard 6? I haven't measured mine
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:29 AM Post #41 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
...The metal films often have a slightly high frequency whitish sound and isn't noticed until compared to something like a good carbon or tantalum (no longer available). Also the cathode bias cap is 220uf. I find that a 470uf gives a little better bass at sometimes, a slight decrease in mids but not always. I use a 470uf on my 6 for the bypass. Also the cathode bypass resistor is important and again I would use a carbon or go battery bias and do away with the resistor and cap.


hey john, i noticed partsconnection having a resistor called shinkoh-tantalum
along with the newer tantalums. are these the original japanese tantalum?
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:30 AM Post #42 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by atbglenn /img/forum/go_quote.gif
How does that voltage compare to the standard 6? I haven't measured mine


last i checked, it was 178v and 64v.
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:32 AM Post #43 of 508
Yeah that is what I thought. More voltage on the plate of the power section. The plate of the driver section is about the same but the second section is getting more voltage and putting out more power. They increased it about 25 volts. I know I mentioned some time back that the tube could be run at much higher voltages, which will give it more power. Well good.

What do you measure on DC for pin 4 and 5?
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:33 AM Post #44 of 508
Quote:

Originally Posted by takezo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
hey john, i noticed partsconnection having a resistor called shinkoh-tantalum
along with the newer tantalums. are these the original japanese tantalum?


Yes, buy some for me! :^) I will have to go look but have to read the resistor between the pins to know the value or take the tube out and measure the resistance.
 
Oct 28, 2008 at 5:35 AM Post #45 of 508
John,

Since the standard 6 supplies less voltage to the plate, should the tube last longer then?
 
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