[REVIEW] Sony MH1 – The Best Kept Secret
Oct 8, 2014 at 6:29 AM Post #3,331 of 3,824
  After 2 months of perfect function , the right side speaker is playing at half volume than the left side. Strangely, if I let the MH1 unused for a day for a while I hear again both sides at the same volume for 15-30 minutes , until the right speaker again loses volume. 

 
I have the same issue sometimes with the 3 pairs of MH1 I have. That's pretty strange because 1 day after, everything is back to normal ! 
 
But i'm still satisfied with them, you can't beat the MH1 when they are priced at €5-10. 
 
Oct 12, 2014 at 9:45 AM Post #3,332 of 3,824
 After 2 months of perfect function , the right side speaker is playing at half volume than the left side. Strangely, if I let the MH1 unused for a day for a while I hear again both sides at the same volume for 15-30 minutes , until the right speaker again loses volume. 

 
I have the same issue sometimes with the 3 pairs of MH1 I have. That's pretty strange because 1 day after, everything is back to normal ! 
 
But i'm still satisfied with them, you can't beat the MH1 when they are priced at €5-10. 


I have a Bluetooth inears from Sony, the sbh20, and after 6 months it happened the same. The right inear phone plays at half the volume when compared to the other one.
I've treated them so gently that this didn't happen by any physical shock or anything like that.

I've got a replacement and for now it's working well as the previous one was. Hope this one lasts more.
This is a good device for the price it costs so i picked it again.
Hope you're next ones will last more than those.
 
Oct 13, 2014 at 3:28 AM Post #3,333 of 3,824
The SBH20 has MH750 speakers that are different than MH1 , at least the diameter and the housing are larger. I suspect that at MH1 what happens is kinda  related to driver flex. I have the MH750 with the MW600 bluetooth and never had any problems. The biggest advantage of our headsets is that you can use any other earbuds that enters into the headset plug, but the MH1 goes right into trash can after failure.
 
Oct 27, 2014 at 9:23 PM Post #3,334 of 3,824
i got the MH1C for my bro... gotta admit it sounded great for what I bought it for right out of the plastic baggie.
tongue.gif

 
Oct 28, 2014 at 3:53 AM Post #3,335 of 3,824
Does Sony has a "MH1" with regular cable? I'm already have MH750 and MH1 anyway.
 
Oct 28, 2014 at 6:29 AM Post #3,338 of 3,824

I still read your request for photos on my notification email. It seems you don’t care any longer, but others might. Thus:
 

 
 
 
The cable I used is this one: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4480 (8$ shipped)
I also left a review there. It’s similar to the sturdy cables on Brainwavz M2. Considering how MH1 is still available for less than 10$/€ in some countries, it might make more sense to get this cable instead, which costs only half as much: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3625
 
I did not find another shop that offers earphone cables for a good price. Not even on DX and similar sites.
 
Here is my process:
 
1. Cut off MH1 cable about 3 cm (1 inch) from the speaker strain relief
2. Carefully cut the flat cable from the side so that you get ~7 mm of the signal and ground wires out of the flat cable with a small scissor.
3. Use a small flame (lighter) to burn off the coating from both 7 mm ends. If you don’t do this, the soldering tin won’t stick to it. (I’m not a soldering expert, maybe there is more to it or a better method with colophony or something?)
4. Cut off 1-2 cm of the shrink-on tube and slide it down the earphone cable. Do this for both left and right side. Slide it down to the Y-splitter so that it is far away from the soldering heat. (Note: I used a blue tube for left and a red tube for right to tell them apart quickly. Tubes are very inexpensive so I recommend doing this.)
5. Pry together the copper cables from the speakers and the earphone cables.
6. Heat the soldering iron and put it on the joint of the cables. 
7. Hold the soldering tin on that spot.
8. Fiddle around until there is enough soldering tin on the cables so that they stick together somewhat tightly.
9. Plug the 3.5 mm port into an audio source and make sure that there is sound on both speakers. If there are issues, resolve them (re-solder the connection, probably).
10. When you’ve made sure everything’s good: slide the shrink-on tubes up over the cable joints.
11. Use heat (hot air, lighter (not into the flame, only close to it), candle …) to make the tubes shrink.
 
That’s it. When I do this the next time, I’ll take pictures of the process and add them. @lesp4ul
 
Oct 28, 2014 at 8:10 PM Post #3,341 of 3,824
 

I still read your request for photos on my notification email. It seems you don’t care any longer, but others might. Thus:
 

 
 
 
The cable I used is this one: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=4480 (8$ shipped)
I also left a review there. It’s similar to the sturdy cables on Brainwavz M2. Considering how MH1 is still available for less than 10$/€ in some countries, it might make more sense to get this cable instead, which costs only half as much: http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3625
 
I did not find another shop that offers earphone cables for a good price. Not even on DX and similar sites.
 
Here is my process:
 
1. Cut off MH1 cable about 3 cm (1 inch) from the speaker strain relief
2. Carefully cut the flat cable from the side so that you get ~7 mm of the signal and ground wires out of the flat cable with a small scissor.
3. Use a small flame (lighter) to burn off the coating from both 7 mm ends. If you don’t do this, the soldering tin won’t stick to it. (I’m not a soldering expert, maybe there is more to it or a better method with colophony or something?)
4. Cut off 1-2 cm of the shrink-on tube and slide it down the earphone cable. Do this for both left and right side. Slide it down to the Y-splitter so that it is far away from the soldering heat. (Note: I used a blue tube for left and a red tube for right to tell them apart quickly. Tubes are very inexpensive so I recommend doing this.)
5. Pry together the copper cables from the speakers and the earphone cables.
6. Heat the soldering iron and put it on the joint of the cables. 
7. Hold the soldering tin on that spot.
8. Fiddle around until there is enough soldering tin on the cables so that they stick together somewhat tightly.
9. Plug the 3.5 mm port into an audio source and make sure that there is sound on both speakers. If there are issues, resolve them (re-solder the connection, probably).
10. When you’ve made sure everything’s good: slide the shrink-on tubes up over the cable joints.
11. Use heat (hot air, lighter (not into the flame, only close to it), candle …) to make the tubes shrink.
 
That’s it. When I do this the next time, I’ll take pictures of the process and add them. @lesp4ul

 
Man! you need to take that cable straight to the drivers!!! then you're talking :)
 
Oct 29, 2014 at 12:33 PM Post #3,343 of 3,824
Yeah, I can imagine. It’s easily 5 times the workload of what I did. And the only benefit is that the cable is more flexible that way (below my shrink-on tubes, the soldering causes some stiffness obviously). Unless you want to sell them professionally, I don’t think it’s worth the effort. Not for me, anyway.
 
Oct 29, 2014 at 5:18 PM Post #3,345 of 3,824
 
Man! you need to take that cable straight to the drivers!!! then you're talking
smily_headphones1.gif


Show off
smily_headphones1.gif
lol

Easier said than done, I've ruined a couple of pairs trying!

 
Did you see my tutorial? I've done a bunch with no major problems. Worst thing that happened was I ripped the contact off the first set, but I've since been more gentle and haven't lost any. The stress relief sometimes gets a little rough around the edges, but you can heat shrink over it. I've never needed to though, it stays together fine and looks decent and sounds great...
 

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