[pigmode]

Looks like there's a high percentage of returns. I'd like to get one but returning stuff is such a hassle...

 

[Russ Arcuri]

Quote:

Originally posted by pigmode Looks like there's a high percentage of returns. I'd like to get one but returning stuff is such a hassle...

I don't know what you consider high... I'd estimate there have been about 25 of them purchased as reported on this thread (no, I'm not going to go back and count

). How many returns are we talking about? 3? 4? And that's only if washing his CDs doesn't clear up JML's skipping problem.

These things have been sitting unused for at least 9 years. You have to decide whether to risk your $50 on one only to have it break.

Look, I'm not a salesperson and I get no benefit from people buying these things. But I do think it's a great player for a really good price. If you want one, don't let a few bad reports scare you off.

 

[gloco]

I have been using one for a few weeks...not one single problem with it. Plus i got my second unit...no problem...maybe theres some dirt/dust caught on the disc that can't seen...who knows?

If JML follows the steps Russ described and it works, then the 25S is just one sensitive SOB...this i found true...skipped like a person on a faint scratch on a CDR i burned.

George

 

[mikeliu]

 

[Gluegun]

uh.... Mike? Dont link to files on your hard drive, LOL!

 

[chewmanji]

man, this thread makes my mouth water!!! makes me wanna pick one up meself. anyone know if i should expect to receive weird border duties if i get one shipped to vancouver?

i'm seriously thinking of getting a d-25s for my personal system in my room...$45 US is damn good for what i'm hearing about this player...just wanna make certain before i get one...if all i do is get a ratshack adapter, i don't really need any of the other crap that has to be ordered from sony right (as long as i don't expect to use it portably)?

awesome review russ.

 

[newspaperguy]

Quote:

Originally posted by Russ Arcuri JML -- Take the CDs that are skipping, if it's only a couple, and wash them with lukewarm water and dish soap. Suds them up good, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry with a soft cloth. Make sure they're completely dry before putting them in the player.

Are you serious? I didn't know one could do such a thing to a CD?!

I've been wondering what is the best way to clean a disc. There are some that have been in my collection for many years now, and despite my best efforts, they have gotten dirty over time. That, or I'll buy used ones and they aren't in the best of shape.

This treatment doesn't negatively affect sound quality?

 

[Duncan]

Okay Okay, I see everyone praising this player, but I don't see any A/B comparisons?!?

Is it worth me retiring my D777 and ordering one of these? or, am I better off where I am? - after seeing that the AC adapter is gonna cost $142 i'm not sure of the value of getting one of these for the UK, but if its a D777 slayer, then i could still be interested

 

[robert]

Quote:

Originally posted by newspaperguy Are you serious? I didn't know one could do such a thing to a CD?! I've been wondering what is the best way to clean a disc. There are some that have been in my collection for many years now, and despite my best efforts, they have gotten dirty over time. That, or I'll buy used ones and they aren't in the best of shape. This treatment doesn't negatively affect sound quality?

be est thee careful. all motion (washing, esp. drying) MUST be radial. these pucks are not like vinyl.

toodles,
robert

 

[Russ Arcuri]

Quote:

Originally posted by newspaperguy I've been wondering what is the best way to clean a disc. There are some that have been in my collection for many years now, and despite my best efforts, they have gotten dirty over time. That, or I'll buy used ones and they aren't in the best of shape. This treatment doesn't negatively affect sound quality?

No, as long as the CD is properly made,* and you don't scratch it (especially the label side! Scratches there are MUCH worse than scratches on the "clear" side.)

The traditional advice for cleaning CDs is to use a soft, dry cloth and wipe from center to edge. I think this advice is bad, because small particles on the disc, removed this way, will put scratches into the disc surface due to the pressure of your hand.

Rinse the disc under lukewarm water... this will knock loose particles off of it without the pressure of you rubbing them into the disc surface. The reason for the dish soap is to remove accumulated dirt and oils such as fingerprints -- you only need a small dot of it. Rub the disc surface gently with the pads of your fingers, working up the suds, then rinse thoroughly. Use a soft cloth to dry it.

* About discs being "properly made:" A compact disc is put together like this: A thick, clear layer of plastic on the bottom. On top of this is the aluminum data layer. On top of the aluminum data layer is nothing more than a very thin coat of laquer, which makes up the label. This is why a scratch to the label side of a CD is so detrimental: the scratch is probably scraping away actual data.

Scratches to the clear side can cause tracking errors, but the data remains intact. Most small scratches on the clear side have no effect on CD players; they track past the scratch without issue. Those big enough to cause a tracking error can be buffed out with a very mild abrasive.

Back to the washing thing. The edges of the disc are sealed with a watertight polymer. This is to prevent oxygen from contaminating the aluminum data layer. Aluminum is very shiny -- perfect for reflecting laser light. But aluminum oxide is not, and if the aluminum data layer was to oxidize, the disc would quickly become unplayable.

(What most people think of as the characteristic color of aluminum -- a flat gray color -- is actually the color of aluminum oxide. Unlike iron oxide [rust], aluminum oxide does not harm the strength or integrity of the alumimum. A thin layer of oxide forms on the surface of aluminum and protects the layer of alumimum just beneath. Unfortunately even a thin layer of alumimum oxide will ruin a CD, which must remain reflective to work properly.)

This is a fairly common problem with older 12" laserdiscs, which are much harder to seal -- it's known as "laser rot" to laserdisc collectors. It's almost unheard of with CDs. It's worth noting that if the edges of your CDs aren't perfectly sealed, they're going to oxidize anyway due to exposure to the air. But washing an imperfectly sealed disc with water will speed up the process slightly.

In any case, with three small children in the house, I have had to wash many CDs with a wide variety of contaminants on them... finger prints, peanut butter, snot, etc. You asked if sound quality will be affected by washing -- the answer is, "Yes -- for the better."

 

[Russ Arcuri]

Quote:

Originally posted by Duncan Is it worth me retiring my D777 and ordering one of these? or, am I better off where I am? - after seeing that the AC adapter is gonna cost $142 i'm not sure of the value of getting one of these for the UK, but if its a D777 slayer, then i could still be interested

I have no idea whether it sounds better or worse than a D777. But if the only power adapter available to you costs $142, I'd say 'forget it.' You're going to end up spending at least $75 on the player alone, after shipping. Add in $142 for a power adapter and it's just not worth it, IMO.

 

[robert]

Quote:

Originally posted by Russ Arcuri * About discs being "properly made:" A compact disc is put together like this: A thick, clear layer of plastic on the bottom. On top of this is the aluminum data layer. On top of the aluminum data layer is nothing more than a very thin coat of laquer, which makes up the label. This is why a scratch to the label side of a CD is so detrimental: the scratch is probably scraping away actual data.

almost, the pits are in the polycarbonate, not the AL:
http://www.ee.washington.edu/consele...audio/95x6.htm

toodles,
robert

 

[Russ Arcuri]

Quote:

Originally posted by robert almost, the pits are in the polycarbonate, not the AL:

Robert, I never said the pits were in the aluminum. In fact, I didn't say where they were at all. I know they're in the polycarbonate layer -- they're pressed into it by master plates.

The aluminum layer is commonly referred to as the "data layer" because that's what reflects the laser. I didn't mean to imply that the data was somehow pressed into the aluminum; it would be crushed flat during pressing if it was.

 

[JDM]

This is a subjective review. I found the sound from the Sony D-25S/Sony MDR-V6 (with Beyerdynamic 250 replacement pads) combination to be superior to AKG 501's powered by a Onkyo CD player and Onkyo amp (headphone jack). However, I don't feel the Sony D-25S has enough power to drive the AKG 501's directly without a headphone amp.
I mostly listen to cross-cultural fusion music with a lot of dynamic range.

 

[robert]

Quote:

Originally posted by Russ Arcuri Robert, I never said the pits were in the aluminum. In fact, I didn't say where they were at all. I know they're in the polycarbonate layer -- they're pressed into it by master plates. The aluminum layer is commonly referred to as the "data layer" because that's what reflects the laser. I didn't mean to imply that the data was somehow pressed into the aluminum; it would be crushed flat during pressing if it was.

and how DO you get those smilies to show up in the text. when i try it just tacks

it on to where the cursor has last typed. so, now i can't add one up on the DO

it just plops itself here. how very droll.

toodles,
robert