quiet pc: take two
Mar 26, 2006 at 11:01 AM Post #16 of 82
Quote:

Originally Posted by JazzJackRabbit
Anyway it's going to be hard to silence your PC without seriously changing components. What I would suggest is go with Seaeonic as your PSU. The fan in Seasonic S12 spins at only 800RPM with no load, your Samsung hard drive is going to be louder than that. The only problem with that might be that S12 is ATX2.xx PSU while your system is basically ATX1.3 system. Also be sure to decouple your hard drive from your case. Of course that means that you must be extra careful when moving your case even if it's couple of feet, but the gain in noise is huge.


wha da huh uh?
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 11:09 AM Post #17 of 82
Quote:

Originally Posted by uzziah
as do i
smily_headphones1.gif


however, their reviews i find to be a tad lacking as far as what's available (i.e. not that much reviewed, so much stuff available)



You'll find a lot of stuff thats advertised as slient or quiet actually isn't. Whereas most of stuff SPCR says is quiet/silent actually is. Went this route a while back and had a quiet (not silent) PC. When I last upgraded I didn't have time to build my own, so I sold that an bought a Dell 4600 from their outlet. Which, was pretty quiet as stock except for the HD. So I swapped that for a quieter drive.
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 11:29 AM Post #19 of 82
yeah, guys, i'm not by any means ignorant to quiet pc construction. been researching and building for awhile. setting apart electrical noise from non-moving components (which is just something you must deal with), the only things that make noise are what is moving. of course that's:

hdd
fans: case, psu, cpu

and that's it. as far as samsung VS seagate, perhaps it's not such a big difference, but i'll tell you: i was really shocked how loud my seagate was while seeking in my FANLESS external enclosure. so much so that i realized that i'd have to put the enclosure somewhere out of earshot.

rubber washers all around help a lot. my antec case has these nice big rubber plugs that the hdd is held with (special screws, don't tighten all the way, less vibration noise), and putting a nice stack of soft rubber washers between your case fans and case (and to a lesser extent cpu fan and heatsink if possible). also, undervolting all one's fans is key. i have a sunbeam rheobus that i was planning to use for a gaming pc, as i could crank the voltage up when gaming, down when listening to music. however, if one does does not need to adjust fan speed, then zalman fanmates, or even cheaper, 5v-modding one's fans will do the trick. i hear what y'all are saying about "silence one, hear another." i removed my case fan for awhile, and found that the cpu fan suddenly became annoyingly audible. the noise with the case fan in place was not neccessarily less DB, but rather it wasn't a "whine", more of an acceptable "whir".

in the end i think i've learned a few things, and they go like this:

1. quieting a pc is NOT DIFFICULT if you take that line from the get-go. it'll cost you to retrofit for a different hdd or chipset fan if need be. for basic pc's, things are quite simple. you needen't worry about chipset fans, gpu fans, 10000rpm hdd's, or high-wattage psu's. but a gaming pc can easily be made reasonably quiet with a fan controller like the rheobus: you simply need to crank things up and down depending on what you're doing. speedfan solves all problems by letting you know how close to the "unsafe temperature" line you're getting. my pc generally runs at about 50c mobo and cpu, and about 40c hdd, which are perfectly acceptable temps for safe usage. i think people are overmuch worried about heat; i think these components can take a lot more than we give credit for. i wouldn't be opposed to having a pc that run up to 70c, though i'd generally avoid it; certainly for the hdd.

2. it's not worth spending your life savings on. basic quiet components are perfectly cheap. you don't need the best of everything. a few good desiciions and you'll be fine. at some point as your collection becomes larger you might start considering a dedicated music server

3. where you put the damn box can be MUCH MORE important than your components. just putting it under my desk makes a world of difference, to the point we all want where i cannot hear it even when everything else is quiet and i'm trying to hear it. i'm considering building a sort of enclosure, closed on top, sides, front (with holes for optical drive, power switch, and usb ports), and open on the back (but extending back a ways)

anyway, all in good fun. i might change a few things, but then again...
smily_headphones1.gif
one thing i've learned is that everyone has a different level of ambient noise in their home, and this makes all the difference in the world. my place is reasonably quiet, but there's certainly audible noise from the fridge, clocks, etc. in my listening spot

.......
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 11:34 AM Post #21 of 82
I had some experience from earlier DIY projects ending up with expensive solutions when trying to fix things afterwards, with less-than-perfect results.

A year ago it was time to build a new gaming rig from scratch, I had three design goals: 1) dead silent, 2) high performance, 3) inexpensive, using standard solutions as far as possible. The strategy I chose was built on three fundamental points:
- air cooling: I didn't want the hassle with aquarium equipment in my computer again... damned how expensive that became!
- low power requirements in component parts, yet high performance
- a high quality case specifically designed for quietness and to be easy to work with, also roomy enough for additional silent upgrades if necessary.

This is what I ended up with:
- AOpen H600B: "super-midi tower", with side-feeder channel for cpu cooling air. A very good PSU was included here, with 120mm speed-regulated fan which is almost dead silent. This is a somewhat more inexpensive solution than Antec's Sonata, and AOpen included a very advanced and powerful, top-class PSU at that. The Sonata is prettier though.

- AMD 64 3000+, socket 939. The choice between AMD and Intel was a no brainer in all relevant aspects; power consumption, performance, price. The boxed cooler proved to be highly efficient and almost dead quiet in the excellent operating environment provided by the case and the control from the motherboard (900 - 1500 rpm).

- ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe. This is a very capable mainboard with a lot of advanced fan and power control functions. This board unfortunally had a severe birth defect: the chipset cooler fan proved to be anything but silent. I got a larger and much better chipset fan from ASUS, but this fan is still the least silent component and will be replaced by a passive Zalman heatsink some day. ASUS released a premium model at a later date, this has a heatpipe cooling solution that is noiseless. I would of course have chosen it if it was available a year ago.

- Graphics: Leadtek 6600GT extreme (pci-e of course). This was the most difficult component to decide on. I wanted good gaming performance, yet a relatively low power consumption for enabling silent operation. The included vga cooler proved to be inadequate and too noisy, too high temperatures under max load. The card draws approx 55 W max, which is within reach for some heatpipe-based coolers. I chose Thermaltake Schooner heatpipe vga cooler which 1) is completely noiseless, 2) decreased max temperature by 15 degrees Celcius to safe 72 C!

- I also added a 120mm Everflow (?) cheap chassis fan to optimize operating conditions for the vga cooler, this also works synergetically with the PSU fan to decrease system noise since they now can spin extremely slow and still do the job. The chassis fan is regulated automatically from the motherboard and typically has 800-1000 rpm depending on need.
- A Seagate HD, not as fast as Hitachi for instance but much quieter.

End result: mission accomplished. This is a rig that still plays all games you throw at it with smooth fps, high res and all effects, it is so silent I actually have it standing right beside me at the desk. All this at the cost of a budget pc ($ 1000 in Sweden).

If you have no requirements for gaming, then just choose a pci-e motherboard with integrated VGA (pci-e just in case your needs change). I'd stil recommend to stick with the rest of this concept, it proved to be a killer. Add a good soundcard and you have Nirvana!

Enjoy!
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 11:34 AM Post #22 of 82
will you be able to replace that chipset fan with a passive HS? i assume your board is NF4. not sure how many case fans you have, but i'm not sure how you'd manage that without a lot of air going accross that chipset, and i tend to find chipsets to be in the "dead" air spot of the mobo, not in direct line of intake or exhaust, but your situation might be different of course.

oh, i think i'll grab myself a radeon 9600 to play some older games. i use an xbox360 for my main gaming.

...
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 11:42 AM Post #23 of 82
Quote:

Originally Posted by skyline889
Are 10,000 rpm hds really that loud? I'm getting a WD raptor installed next week but I don't think I want anything super loud.


i've no personal experience, but i have heard that yes they are. honestly though i haven't heard one
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 12:08 PM Post #24 of 82
Quote:

Originally Posted by uzziah
will you be able to replace that chipset fan with a passive HS? i assume your board is NF4. not sure how many case fans you have, but i'm not sure how you'd manage that without a lot of air going accross that chipset, and i tend to find chipsets to be in the "dead" air spot of the mobo, not in direct line of intake or exhaust, but your situation might be different of course.

oh, i think i'll grab myself a radeon 9600 to play some older games. i use an xbox360 for my main gaming.

...



You are right in your concern for NF4, a really hot chipset. However, it is possible to use Zalmans blue cooler if you have room for it (just barely comes clear of the graphics card) and you have something that blows a little over the fins. In my case I would have to add yet another large fan inside the case, blowing at the chipset. This is no big deal since those fans are practically noiseless when driven by 5 or 7 volts, or hooked onto the regulated chipset fan mainboard output.

Another alternative to VGA cooling and for blowing sufficiently at the Zalman chipset heatsink is to use the very good Zalman vga cooler (vf700 was it?), this is extremely quiet at low speed mode.
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 1:29 PM Post #25 of 82
The main problem with silent PC's is heat. You want to pick a good case and appropriate components that reduce the amout of heat generated, and thus the amount of heat you need to cool. Or you can go to water cooling which is more efficient at cooling than air cooling is.

The other point is that silence depends on the enviroment. A PC in the kitchen/study is different from a PC a few feet from your head when you are sleeping.
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 4:30 PM Post #26 of 82
Quote:

Originally Posted by skyline889
Are 10,000 rpm hds really that loud? I'm getting a WD raptor installed next week but I don't think I want anything super loud.


I've owned three, an older SCSI, a 36gb first gen Raptor and my current 74gb Raptor. The SCSI was insanely loud, the 36gb Raptor was fairly quiet but got loud when doing disk intensive stuff (booting, defragging, etc), and the new 74gb Raptor is barely audible.
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 8:56 PM Post #27 of 82
I have the same Mboard as Leopold, the chipset cooler is clearly the achilles heel of my system too. I have an ATI X800XL video card with the large zahlman cooler on it, this cooler blocks all space over the chipset, serious alteration of either the vid cooler, or an aftermarket chipset cooler woud be necessary.

As to the passively cooled Mboards with the heatpipe, My case mounts the mboard upside down, and that system won't work for me unfortunately. Just something for yall to think about when you pick stuff out.

1) Samsung 250 g SATA2 is very quiet, even without special treatment.
2) Seasonic S12 units are also very good.
3) I would not turn down a Nexus fan much, ya can't hear them anyways.
4) If you don't play games, find a much older video chip set running with passive cooling (or on the motherboard is even better.)
5) If you are not going to play the newest games, consider researching a pentium M based system. Much lower power requirements.
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 9:16 PM Post #28 of 82
Take a look here:

http://www.silenx.com

They have terrific fanless PSUs, very quiet fans, hard drive coolers/quieters, and other stuff, too.

A lot of SilenX stuff gets used in studios because it's quiet.

Another mod that works is going to a car stereo place and buying the lining for cars that deadens sound. Works great, but you have to spend a lot of time putting it into your case.

Probably the cheapest mod I've used is putting a touch of white glue on the threads of all case screws and really tightening them down. No, they won't get glued in place. It'll just take a little extra force to break the glue if you need to get something out. Otherwise, the glue will keep the screw for working loose and also from vibrating.
 
Mar 26, 2006 at 9:22 PM Post #29 of 82
Agree with post above me.The silenx fans to me are on par if not better at the lower noise level than the nexus fans.Not sure which one of the two moves more air.
 

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