[steinba]

627's are available at Elfa (ELFA -- Elektronikdistributör i norra Europa) at least.

 

[StanRex]

Thanks for the tip but the pricing is... huh... impressive to say the least.

I think I'll just wait for them to be in stock at mouser

btw, I've found opa627apg5 at farnell, at a similar price (30 euros)

do you know what the g4 stands for?

anyway, 30 euros for an opamp (90 for 3 of them...) is just too much. I ll build the amp with ad opamps first

 

[mwofsi]

Don't know about shipping but this seems like it might be a good deal:
https://www.cimarrontechnology.com/i...PROD&ProdID=37

 

[StanRex]

thanks a lot for the link! I m sending them an email asking about shipping immediately!

 

[funch]

Digikey has them in SOIC:
Digi-Key - OPA627AU-ND (Texas Instruments - OPA627AU)

 

[tangent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by StanRex /img/forum/go_quote.gif do you know what the g4 stands for?

It's probably a RoHS code. The datasheet will have a section explaining the part number.

 

[steinba]

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinba /img/forum/go_quote.gif Does anyone have an up to date BOM for the PPAv2 from mouser, digikey or maybe even Elfa? (BTW: I have the opamps and C1's as well as the Alps pots)

Gaaah! I wish someone was selling a PPAv2 kit!

(Are you hearing this, tangent?

)

 

[tangent]

What would such a kit contain?

Black Gate, Cerafine, Muse or Panasonic PW caps? AD825, AD8610, AD8065, OPA627, or OPA637 op-amps? Gain resistors for 1, 2, 5 or 10? Output stage biasing for 10, 20, 30 or 40 mA per channel? Q3s matched to the op-amps I send, or oversized to allow op-amp rolling at the expense of regulation? MJE243/253, BD139/140, 2SA1358/2SC3421, or KSA1220/KSC2690 output transistors? C6 big enough to control any op-amp or only as big as necessary to control the op-amp sent, giving wider bandwidth? Which of the rainbow of possible LED colors should I use? Should I ship RLED or RLED+FET+ZNR, and how bright should I make it? Include bass boost, and if so, where to set it? Include op-amp biasing JFETs, and if so, what value? Optimize for wall power or battery, or try to split the difference?

No doubt you have answers for all of those questions. But do you imagine that your answers will match up with everyone else's?

If I ever did offer a kit, there could be only one, for a bunch of reasons. And, the questions above tell us that one kit will not satisfy.

DIY makes it possible to build something that fits your taste and situation perfectly, which is one of the best reasons to DIY.

 

[steinba]

I know and understand, of course. I wasn't (that) serious, really. Just got a little tired of all my old BOMs at "My mouser" being scattered with "obsolete" parts.

I'm really grateful that you make the parts you do have available, btw. So thanks!

 

[steinba]

...Ignore.

 

[StanRex]

Well, I ve just sent the last order for all the parts. Unless I've forgotten some components or burn a few and have to reorder, this is what building the ppa + TREAD costs me :

order from tangent (board, pot, browndog adapters, TREAD kit) : 61 €

order from digikey (caps, opamps (ad843 and ad8065), case and a few others) : 77 €

order from mouser (resistors, transistors and a few others) : 86 €

order from farnell (the french version of newark) (opamps (ad8610, ad825 and opa627/637), transistors, R9 and R12) : 203 €

total : 427 €

a tad higher than I had expected ^^ but I took quite a bit of spare parts, 5 different opamp sets to test and well, ordering from 4 different suppliers kinda adds to the shipping costs (mouser asked 30$ for shipping via priority mail... ugh....)

I learned one thing in the process though. Digikey is incredibly fast (ordered yesterday, package is already in France). And they charged 0 for shipping, since my order was > 75 euros. Pretty cool policy if you ask me, I'd wish farnell and mouser did the same.

 

[StanRex]

I have a quick question, it's not about the PPA but it's related to it : it's about the regulator that is used on the TREAD.

That thing has, well, BIG pins, that I wouldn't really call leads, and if I put it in the TREAD board, the pins stick out a lot. I'm just wondering if those can't be cut without risk of damaging the regulator. I suppose so, since after all, they re just pins, and it seems it has been done on the pic here :

but I'd like to be sure before cutting them, since I've never met that kind of pins before

thanks in advance

 

[FallenAngel]

What pins?

If you're talking about the regulator heatsink, you can skip it altogether depending on voltage drop and current requirements.

If you're talking about the bottom of the board, yes, you're supposed to trim the excess leads.

 

[StanRex]

No, I really mean the pins of the regulator, those that are on that document :

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/product.../to220_dim.pdf

and that will end up at the bottom of the board, like the leads of the other components, but aren't really leads

 

[MisterX]

feel free to cut them as needed