[MacDEF]

Quote:

Originally posted by fredpb Miniplug is different. Sticker is different, but there are no differences in parts?

As I said above, miniplug is a different color, and the sticker is different but everything else is exactly the same.

Quote:

Just out of a burning desire to know the whole truth.... what is the definitive source of this information

Me.

Here are the "5 reasons" they are the same (quoted from another thread):

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Quote: 1) They sound the same (or at least as close as can be expected given Sony's manufacturing variances -- two random pairs of 7506 can have significantly different frequency response graphs). In fact, different V6 units sound much more "different" than a V6 and 7506 side by side. This has been confirmed by many other people. Any difference in sound between the two models is due to manufacturing variance, and is no bigger than the difference in sound between two of the same model. 2) They are cosmetically identical. If you take the label off of a pair of each, no one, not even a Sony engineer, could tell the difference. 3) All of their service parts and accessories are identical. If you damage a driver in a pair of V6 or 7506, the replacement part number is the same. The replacement *part* is the same. This fact alone disproves the theory that there is better/worse driver matching in one model or the other. 4) They come off of the same production lines. In addition to me being told this by Sony, I have a pair that proves it -- the left driver/enclosure is labeled "MDR-V6" while the right is labeled "MDR-7506." Doesn't that tell you something about how these are produced? 5) The real kicker -- I've been told by several Sony repair and service techs that they are exactly the same headphone, just labeled differently for different markets.

Quote:

Originally posted by Neruda In fact, I think it was Flumpus who received a pair of headphones with "V6" written on one earcup and "V7506" written on the other!

I own those now

 

[Vertigo-1]

Quote:

Originally posted by MacDEF I own those now

LOL, you're really out to squash any V6/7506 rebellions aren't you.

 

[pedxing]

I have heard mismatching impedances with amps and speakers may lead to damage. Is this true and how?

 

[Paul_A]

im a headphone newbie (and certainly no expert), but i'll refer to my abeit meager audio experience to talk about the impedence part. hopefully i can contribute somehow

as far as i understand, the amount of watts that the headphone gets from the headphone jack is determined by the impedance, all other things being equal. higher resistance = less power to the speaker, thus you may need to resort to more powerful amplification (i.e. external amps like the MG head).

for example, an amp that pushes 1 watt at 4 ohms would roughly give:

0.5 watts @ 8ohms
0.25 watts @ 16ohms
0.125 watts @ 32ohms

and inversely
2 watts @ 2 ohms
4 watts @ 1ohm
8 watts @ .5 ohm

this doesnt mean that a phone with a lower impedance is "easier" to drive, it just means with that impedance it gets more power from the amp (letting you drive the speaker to an appropriate sound level). low impedances are actually harder for an amp to drive, and as resistance gets lower, the more likely an amp is going to thermal. this probably isnt a concern in this discussion, however.

 

[melissak]

Thanks for the help. I will price the MDR-V6's and forego the Grados for now. I don't want a colored sound.

I suspect the other monitoring recommendations (Sennheiser HD600, Stax etc) are in a different price range. I like $60 since I'm not intending to use the phones for anything other than home mixing.

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I'm curious to learn where you are learning to record in a digital studio, is it through school or a job?

I'm making music at home. My fiance gave me the BR-532 and a Strat as a present. If you are interested, this studio unit is about $395, battery/adapter driven, and enables you to mix down up to 32 tracks. It's easy enough if you are handy and have some basic musical knowledge and a few hours. I'm just teaching myself from the pretty bad manual (thanks, Boss).

I'm not a sound engineer nor do I aspire to be one, so I'm contented with what this unit can do. If you are interested in a career in sound engineering/mixing/DJing it might be too simplistic, I just don't know. The thing I like about it is that you can optically or traditionally sync it up with all kinds of other video and audio equipment for sampling and output. Good luck.

 

[kwkarth]

Quote:

Originally posted by Paul_A [size=xx-small]im a headphone newbie (and certainly no expert), but i'll refer to my abeit meager audio experience to talk about the impedence part. hopefully i can contribute somehow as far as i understand, the amount of watts that the headphone gets from the headphone jack is determined by the impedance, all other things being equal. higher resistance = less power to the speaker, thus you may need to resort to more powerful amplification (i.e. external amps like the MG head). for example, an amp that pushes 1 watt at 4 ohms would roughly give: 0.5 watts @ 8ohms 0.25 watts @ 16ohms 0.125 watts @ 32ohms and inversely 2 watts @ 2 ohms 4 watts @ 1ohm 8 watts @ .5 ohm this doesnt mean that a phone with a lower impedance is "easier" to drive, it just means with that impedance it gets more power from the amp (letting you drive the speaker to an appropriate sound level). low impedances are actually harder for an amp to drive, and as resistance gets lower, the more likely an amp is going to thermal. this probably isnt a concern in this discussion, however. [/size]

Good post Paul!!
The following discussion may or may not help to further educate...read at your own risk

This is all a matter of impedance matching. Power is measured in watts. Typically headphone sensitivity is expressed in watts (mW=milliwatts) per loudness unit (db or decibel) An amplifier's output power capability is expressed in watts delivered into a given impedance load.

The truth of amplifier power capacity is hidden in the amp's ability to deliver that power into a given load.

This is acomplished by impedance matching coupled with the amp's power supply and output device design. The B+ rail voltage of the amp's power supply and the current capacity of the power supply and output devices will dictate how well or poorly the amp can accomodate differing load impedances.

This is all pretty straight forward ohms law stuff. To drive a low impedance load current is more important than voltage. To drive a high impedance load, voltage is more important than current. All of these parameters are interdependant.

Power=voltage squared divided by resistance.

If you try to drive a high impedance load with an amp that does not have adequate voltage swing capacity on the B+ lines your waveform will clip at the peaks because of the voltage limitation. This will happen regardless of the amp's power rating or current capacity of the output devices. You will hear distortion.

If you try to drive a low impedance load with an amp that has plenty of voltage swing capability but whose power supply design or whose output device current capacity is inadequate the waveform may clip (from IR drop due to PS sag) and / or your output devices if unprotected may overheat and smoke. Actually, the weakest link in the chain will go first.

Hope this helps.

 

[kwkarth]

As an alternative to the Sony v6/7506...

A good pair of monitoring cans that are relatively easy to drive is the Beyerdyanic DT250/80.

They're about twice the money, twice the audio quality, and twice the lifespan.

You get what you pay for in this case.

Cheers!

 

[morphsci]

Quote:

Originally posted by kwkarth ... They're about twice the money, twice the audio quality, and twice the lifespan....

I agree with the first one. The second one is highly subjective. The third one is unsubstantiated due to a lack of data.

 

[JML]

Etronics has a good price, and they're in Brooklyn. Even if they ship, it gets to Philly in a day, so you might have it in ten minutes. Seriously, their price seems to be the best right now.

 

[kwkarth]

Quote:

Originally posted by morphsci I agree with the first one. The second one is highly subjective. The third one is unsubstantiated due to a lack of data.

1. thanks
2. i agree
3. I have the data!!
4. what about #4??

 

[morphsci]

Quote:

Originally posted by kwkarth 1. thanks 2. i agree 3. I have the data!! 4. what about #4??

1. No Comment
2. No Comment
3. Please Share
4. Almost always true, so I didn't see a need to comment.

 

[kwkarth]

Quote:

Originally posted by morphsci 1. No Comment 2. No Comment 3. Please Share 4. Almost always true, so I didn't see a need to comment.

The data that I have, while not statistically significant, is enough to convince me.

I have several samples of the V6/7506 on hand and have used them for years. They hold up quite well except for two areas. The cord invariably (well, not always, but often) becomes defective and the pleather oxidizes and crumbles and flakes away after a few years.

The DT250/80: I have a sample size of one. I've had it for many years. Longer than the last two copies of the 7506 that I bought. The 7506's have both deteriorated considerably with regard to the pleather. The DT250/80 still looks like new. The cord is easily user replaceble on the DT250/80 but doesn't need it since it's in perfect shape. The 7506 cord is fixed to the cans and everything must be dissmantled and unsoldered to replace the cord if it can be obtained. Not an option for many users.

As always, YMMV.
Cheers!

 

[morphsci]

Quote:

Originally posted by kwkarth The data that I have, while not statistically significant, is enough to convince me. I have several samples of the V6/7506 on hand and have used them for years. They hold up quite well except for two areas. The cord invariably (well, not always, but often) becomes defective and the pleather oxidizes and crumbles and flakes away after a few years. The DT250/80: I have a sample size of one. I've had it for many years. Longer than the last two copies of the 7506 that I bought. The 7506's have both deteriorated considerably with regard to the pleather. The DT250/80 still looks like new. The cord is easily user replaceble on the DT250/80 but doesn't need it since it's in perfect shape. The 7506 cord is fixed to the cans and everything must be dissmantled and unsoldered to replace the cord if it can be obtained. Not an option for many users. As always, YMMV. Cheers!

Well I certainly can't disagree about the pleather, plus it is annoyingly hot. That's why the first thing I do is call up Beyer and replace the pads with, you guessed it, Beyer 250 velour pads. My current V-6 (bought used) is about 13 years old according to the former owner and the cord is just fine except for one kink that does not affect the sound. My 7506 is less than 5 years old. Well I guess that ups the sample size but increased the variance. I guess I really need to give the 250-80's a good listen. Work, work, work ...

 

[kwkarth]

I feel fairly confident in saying that if you like the sound of the 7506's, you'll love the DT250's.

 

[TimSchirmer]

for what you are looking for, id recommend the AKG K240 or any pair of nicer beyers.