| Originally Posted by Turn&cough /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm not really worried about the Paradisea lacking bass. My main concern is detail. I'm running a SB3 through a Cambridge 640a integrated which doesn't have the tightest bass and most detailed sound out there. Basically what i'm looking for is a DAC that will add smoothness and warmth without making it sound flabby or muffled. It should be at least equal to the SB3 Burr Brown DAC in detail - right? BTW - I ordered a WE396a from Tubesandmore. com also but haven't received it yet. I hope they don't pull a fast one on me too. |
| Originally Posted by nick77 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Has anyone tried the Paradisea+ USB connection yet? I was reading about someone elses experience with the USB connection and he was saying that it is far superior to spdif. Anyone able to confirm or disagree with these results. I was thinking about standard version or picking up a used unit. But if the USB is vastly superior I will reconsider. |
| Originally Posted by nick77 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Has anyone tried the Paradisea+ USB connection yet? I was reading about someone elses experience with the USB connection and he was saying that it is far superior to spdif. Anyone able to confirm or disagree with these results. I was thinking about standard version or picking up a used unit. But if the USB is vastly superior I will reconsider. |
| Originally Posted by happybob /img/forum/go_quote.gif well, i just received the tube i ordered from tubesandmore.com yesterday. i thought i was getting a western electric 396a, but it actually turned out to be a we396a alternative. the one they sent me was the sylvania 2c51, which had also been mentioned in some paradisea thread as good sounding. maybe not as highly recommended as the authentic we 396a, but it's slightly cheaper and also has a more laid back "tubey" sound like the we396a. |
| Originally Posted by Turn&cough /img/forum/go_quote.gif I just received my order from tubesandmore.com. They sent me a Western Electric in plain white box with JW-2C51 markings on it. |
| Originally Posted by Turn&cough /img/forum/go_quote.gif I read somewhere that some preferred the JW-2C51 to the 396a so it's no big deal. In addition to it I've got a Bendix 6385 plus the stock tube that will ship with the Paradisea. All I'm missing is the Paradisea. Where's that tax return??? |
| Hi, For the tubes issue, IMO, burn in time: The burn in time will takes about 1 days for components and about one month for tube. The tube will be a big issue in this process. The installed tube GE 5670, date coded 1987, is the last generation of western insdustry, the golden tube ages. In fact is a good tube but need quite a long time to burn in and aging. The famous tube are all about 1950s' tube as they were well aging already just need burn in. The tube, I will not recommend any since it depens majorly in taste. However, I will say that the western tubes are quite good due to their materials used in making tube and not recommend recent produced tube like russian or chinese 6N3 due to wrong materials are used. To me: 1st class, WE2C51 (D getter) WE396A (D getter) Bendix 6385 (toooo expensive) Tesla 6CC42 (rare but sometimes will show up in the market) 2nd class, WE396A/2C51 (O getter) Tun-sol 396A, 2C51 (they invent this tube, 1950s, D getter) Raytheon CK5670 (1950s, D getter) RCA 5670 (1950s, D/Plate 2 supporting rod getter) GE 5670 (3 mica structure, mostly 5 stars tube) Sylvania 2C51, 5670 (D getter) 3nd class, (after 1960s) GE 5670 RCA 5670 Tun-sol 5670 Sylvania 2C51 Sylnvnia 5670 (sometimes marked Mullard) RTC 5670 Philips 2C51 4th class, russian and chinese 6N3P, -E, -EB, -EV Mhdt Labs |
| Hi, getter is located in between the top of tube and upper mica. getter reacts with oxygen strongly and absorbs it to ensure the vacuum status. getter can has basicly three sahpe D, O and Disk (GE5670 infact has Disk getter but looks like O) D getter: http://tone-lizard.com/images/12AT7.gif https://www.tubeworld.com/437a_we.jpg O getter https://www.tubeworld.com/12at7mull70.jpg D getter usually means early tube and O getter and disk getter usually indicates late produced (1960-70) tube. below is from text book: We want a good, hard vacuum inside a tube, or it will not work properly. And we want that vacuum to last as long as possible. Sometimes, very small leaks can appear in a tube envelope (often around the electrical connections in the bottom). Or, the tube may not have been fully "degassed" on the vacuum pump at the factory, so there may be some stray air inside. The "getter" is designed to remove some stray gas. The getter in most glass tubes is a small cup or holder, containing a bit of a metal that reacts with oxygen strongly and absorbs it. (In most modern glass tubes, the getter metal is barium, which oxidizes VERY easily when it is pure.) When the tube is pumped out and sealed, the last step in processing is to "fire" the getter, producing a "getter flash" inside the tube envelope. That is the silvery patch you see on the inside of a glass tube. It is a guarantee that the tube has good vacuum. If the seal on the tube fails, the getter flash will turn white (because it turns into barium oxide). There have been rumors that dark spots on getters indicate a tube which is used. This is NOT TRUE. Sometimes, the getter flash is not perfectly uniform, and a discolored or clear spot can occur. The tube is still good and will give full lifetime. THE ONLY RELIABLE WAY TO DETERMINE THE HEALTH OF A TUBE IS TO TEST IT ELECTRICALLY. |
