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"Open Alpha" T50 3D printed headphone project from MrSpeakers
May 30, 2020 at 9:12 PM Post #676 of 979
DenverW said:
Well I had read some positive reports of the mark 2 vs the mark 3 so I was anticipating some good changes. After listening, it sounds...more or less the same. I did manage to avoid a 7k dip that I had in the previous build (im sure due to my build and not the mark 3), but as far as sound stage, imaging, tone...not a big difference to my ears. I'll do some full listening tonight after the family goes to bed, but I don't anticipate any revelations. I would say that if you want to do this project you'd be happy with either a mark 2 or 3.
Click to expand...
 
Jun 1, 2020 at 12:24 PM Post #678 of 979
Hey all,

Debating where to get my prints from, probably going to stick with the original design (unless the modified screw variant is now recommended?)

So, there's facfox who have the option to do the finish in house and are relatively cheap I just don't know which material to choose for the print and can't see any firm advice on the thread, can anyone with experience on this give me any advice/feedback?

Or do I just go with shapeways and do the finish myself/find somewhere to do the finish for me? I believe shapeways are a 100% infill whereas we should really only be using a 10%-20% infill like on facfox where you can select them to be hollowed?

Sorry for all the questions I've never had something 3D printed before!
 
Jun 1, 2020 at 1:37 PM Post #679 of 979
I used ABS. It's the tougher longer lasting material

PLA was made to be easier and more environmentally friendly. But can break down over time


Plus the biggest advantage of ABS is the fact you can super glue it. If you plan on opening them a few times, that might be a good feature


So go for a company that prints in ABS prefered. I mean Shapeways is the classic
 
Jun 3, 2020 at 10:17 AM Post #680 of 979
bgfi said:
Hey all,

Debating where to get my prints from, probably going to stick with the original design (unless the modified screw variant is now recommended?)

So, there's facfox who have the option to do the finish in house and are relatively cheap I just don't know which material to choose for the print and can't see any firm advice on the thread, can anyone with experience on this give me any advice/feedback?

Or do I just go with shapeways and do the finish myself/find somewhere to do the finish for me? I believe shapeways are a 100% infill whereas we should really only be using a 10%-20% infill like on facfox where you can select them to be hollowed?

Sorry for all the questions I've never had something 3D printed before!
Click to expand...
Ah crap, I messed up then with my order from facfox. I didn't know what hollowing was and just selected no on it. Will there be any issues with sound because of that?
 
Jun 4, 2020 at 1:52 PM Post #682 of 979
homerograco said:
Your cup will have a 100% infill, which will make it denser. If anything, it should sound better.
Click to expand...
huh, neat. Another question though, if I want to silver leaf it, would I still have to sand down the cups? If so, what grit should I use?


Edit: actually, I think I'll look into cnc milling for wood and go from there as there's more information about leafing and urushi on that material instead. Maybe make pens since I'll be messing with urushi anyway
 
Last edited:
Jun 6, 2020 at 11:20 AM Post #683 of 979
socks2sound said:
huh, neat. Another question though, if I want to silver leaf it, would I still have to sand down the cups? If so, what grit should I use?


Edit: actually, I think I'll look into cnc milling for wood and go from there as there's more information about leafing and urushi on that material instead. Maybe make pens since I'll be messing with urushi anyway
Click to expand...
Case ou wanna use the 3D printed cups I'd definitely recommend that you send them down to smooth their top surface. I went down to 240 grit on mine.

CNC'd cups will be even better :wink:
 
Jun 7, 2020 at 11:49 AM Post #685 of 979
Laines said:
Hi what material did you selected, FDM ABS M30? Also did you select post processing like sanding and painting?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I used abs and selected a matte black finish since the fostex cup video had a finish on the cups before the silver leafing was applied.

homerograco said:
Case ou wanna use the 3D printed cups I'd definitely recommend that you send them down to smooth their top surface. I went down to 240 grit on mine.

CNC'd cups will be even better :wink:
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm actually at home depot rn so this helps out a lot :0
 
Jun 7, 2020 at 3:19 PM Post #686 of 979
You won't have any sonic issues with no hollowing, just a heavier cup. For sanding I started with a more coarse sandpaper and sanded it down, then did a light acetone wash, then smoothed it out with a lighter sandpaper. I then did a coat or two with a spray primer, then did several light coats with spray. First set I did a rustoleum hammered which looked pretty good, 2nd set used a red caliper paint which had more sheen. Lastly I used a clear gloss spray on it to give it a clear coat. Be very careful not to infill the little bass holes if you're spray painting; make sure to clean them out after each round, otherwise you'll have to take a thin nail and open up the holes at the end (a pain!).
 
Jun 7, 2020 at 4:21 PM Post #687 of 979
DenverW said:
You won't have any sonic issues with no hollowing, just a heavier cup. For sanding I started with a more coarse sandpaper and sanded it down, then did a light acetone wash, then smoothed it out with a lighter sandpaper. I then did a coat or two with a spray primer, then did several light coats with spray. First set I did a rustoleum hammered which looked pretty good, 2nd set used a red caliper paint which had more sheen. Lastly I used a clear gloss spray on it to give it a clear coat. Be very careful not to infill the little bass holes if you're spray painting; make sure to clean them out after each round, otherwise you'll have to take a thin nail and open up the holes at the end (a pain!).
Click to expand...
Thanks, I think I'll end up sanding the 3d printed cups and following your advice. Only thing I'm iffy about the lacquer I'll be using is the amount of coats and the long curing time in between them.

So I think it'll be a process of sanding, applying the urushi lacquer, curing the laquer through humidity, sanding again, then rinse and repeat until there's enough of the lacquer to keep the shape since laquer in general will destroy abs plastic from what I've read so far. Probably before the last couple coats, I'll apply the silver leaf so that it can show through
 
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