[jgs2n]

I did apply “supports” and added “skirts”. Were supports unnecessary?

I am no expert but I printed with supports and without skirts. The infill % definitely impacts print time. What did you use for this?

 

[Philimon]

20% infill.
Its now esimating 15.5hours… so I wont be surprised if it ends up being closer to the 11 hours you mentioned.

 

[Philimon]

Updated pic to show infill and support:

 

[IvanDrago]

Is there anything I might be able to do to reduce print time?

yes.

1. layer hight (depends what finish you want. Lower = higher print time, smoother finish. 0,2mm is the standard. (0,15-0,3mm)
2. % infill (20-30% is enough)
3. perimeters (3-4)

I would recommend Prusa Slicer. For beginners way easier to handle then Cura.

Printing one cup with 0,2mm layer hight would take about 7:30 hours. With 0,3mm for example only 5 hours.

 

[Philimon]

you can mirror them in slicer as @Atlantic kindly reminded me. I am looking for a source of inserts that are the right size. So far have found them only on aliexpress.

The closest I can find with quick shipping on amazon is M2 x 3.2 x 3. Ill probably buy these and hopefully the extra .5mm in height will not be a problem.

Edit: i bought these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBQFNQD?psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&ref_=chk_typ_quicklook_titleToDp

 

[Philimon]

Thanks @IvanDrago
I must be using the beginner menu on Cura because there are way less options. Or idunno maybe Cura is limited and I need to download Prusa Slicer. Will see how long actual print time is for this first cup then consider changing programs.

 

[Philimon]

Cura now estimating 4hours. Looks almost done. Its been almost 3hours total.

 

[Philimon]

About 3hours total:

 

[Philimon]

I guess now I start hacking away at the supports.

 

[Philimon]

I printed a set of the 3.5mm cups because hirose is pricey. Is there a version though with 3.5mm connectors and space for screw inserts?

Here where the screw holes are a bit occluded will the screws cut through that or do I need to remove the excess filament first? Like by cutting away or drilling. Or just use self tapping screws in the right size. What is the right size?

 

[jgs2n]

I printed a set of the 3.5mm cups because hirose is pricey. Is there a version though with 3.5mm connectors and space for screw inserts?

Here where the screw holes are a bit occluded will the screws cut through that or do I need to remove the excess filament first? Like by cutting away or drilling. Or just use self tapping screws in the right size. What is the right size?

Not sure which ones you printed but I printed cups with the adjustable bass. I used an M3 screw tap before putting the bass screw in as advised somewhere on the many pages of this forum. Without the screw tap, you risk inserting the bass screw and never getting it out or being able to adjust it. A 12mm M3 set screw (no head) worked for me.

I have not tried threaded inserts yet but will eventually. I would assume that you have to get the support material out of the hole before inserting the thread insert. For non set screw prints, I drill out the hole before inserting the screw. I learned this the hard way as the screw hole bosses twist off if not drilled.

I think post #819 has heated set screws and 3.5mm connectors. I have not tried that.

 

[Philimon]

Post #819 does have a design for 3.5mm connectors and insert screws.
Thank you @gb160

Attached is comparison between a cup with original design screw posts (green) vs screw posts beefed up intended for screw inserts (blue, gb160 edit).

btw, the gb160 edit will not work with stock driver baffles. gb160’s files come with a custom baffle edit but Ive not printed it yet so havent tested.

 

[Philimon]

Supports on the driver baffle can be difficult to remove. Any tips?

 

[IvanDrago]

Supports on the driver baffle can be difficult to remove. Any tips?

flip the baffle in your slicer

edit: with @gb160 modified baffle you should be fine. In general for easy detachable support, choose a z distance between 0,2 and 0,3 mm.

 

[VanHai]

Supports on the driver baffle can be difficult to remove. Any tips?

Hey Phil, use a small long nose pliers and pull it out.