It looks like some of the uploads from Mr Speakers original post have gone missing... does anyone have a copy of the preliminary directions or assembly diagrams? Just looking to start my own open alphas 
"Open Alpha" T50 3D printed headphone project from MrSpeakers
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buffalomatt
100+ Head-Fier
It looks like some of the uploads from Mr Speakers original post have gone missing... does anyone have a copy of the preliminary directions or assembly diagrams? Just looking to start my own open alphas
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/ope...-from-mrspeakers.825868/page-33#post-13952532
Are these what you are looking for?
I have my open alphas put together. I used the adjustable bass port version with 3.5mm jacks and alpha pads. I am using paxmate and wool roving to damp the mkIII drivers. They have wonderful bass extension. Though I am having trouble getting them flat. They are v shaped. They also lack detail compared to my other set of mkIII's with the mayflower mod. I really would like more detail. Has anyone tried wave guides inside the driver? I was thinking about putting sugru or modeling clay in the driver frames and then poking it with a pencil or some other cone shaped object to form the wave guides. Are there any other ways to pull more detail out?
rendyG
100+ Head-Fier
You can bring out more detail by using some kind of treble reflector, I have now different problem, as I use mk3 driver, so too much treble, especially with HM5 hybrids
I tried waveguides, but recently I removed them, wasn´t satisfied.. But I suspect it may be coz of their bad quality, as I printed them on some cheap printer..
And I don´t think sugru is a good idea for waveguides, because in this case, every inperfection will have impact on sound.
I tried waveguides, but recently I removed them, wasn´t satisfied.. But I suspect it may be coz of their bad quality, as I printed them on some cheap printer..
And I don´t think sugru is a good idea for waveguides, because in this case, every inperfection will have impact on sound.
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I will try that. They are kinda hot on treble already though.
If they are ABS, you could get some acetone and put them in a glass container with the part on some kind of platfrom and acetone underneath and/or cotton balls soaked in acetone. The idea is to expose the part to acetone vapors. It will very slowly melt the surface of the plastic to be smooth and even leaving a shiny finish. This process can easily be controlled. Just keep an eye on it and remove the part from the vapor bath when it gets to the desired state. It also makes the part stronger as it melts the outer layers together evenly. I'm sure you can find tons of youtube videos on how to do it simple and cheap. You definitely want to do it outside or in a well ventilated area.
That's a good point. Uniformity is key. They should probably be modeled and printed as well if that is what I try next.
How about making the cups out of an alloy or steel from a CNC machine.
That is an interesting idea. It would require either a 5 axis machine, or multiple cutting setups to create what the 3D printer is creating from this design. Metal would also be heavy and have a very different sound. I'm not sure that it would cause lots of reflections, but that is what I imagine it would do. The point of the 3D printed plastic cups is that they are actually hollow shells with minimal infill to create a specific acoustic property. I would like to see CNC wood. I know wood t50's have been done, but not like this. There are plenty of make services that you could submit the files to and have them machine it for you, just like the 3D printing services. Give it a shot and let us know how it goes.
Reflections are super easy to correct, metal or alloy is stiffer and strong hence there will be less reverberations going on inside the cups (these vibrations make sound of their own), making the bass tighter and the mid and highs more refined.
I believe 3dhubs.com has CNC now. Submit the STL's, pick a material and then wait for a shop to send you a bid for the job. You definitely won't have problems with screws stripping like they do on plastic.
Could someone give me a price on em? 3dhubs is acting weird.
My plan is to reduce the thickness of the cup slightly (and I mean slightly). Any suggestions on damping?
paxmate seems to no longer be available. It is just just PC case sound deadening material and there are other brands that are exactly the same. Wool roving is easy enough to find on amazon as well.
I just check with 3dhubs but MAN OH MAN! The prices are waaayyyy to expensive, I submitted my simple outer ring of another t50rp body I was designing (2.5mm thick 110x95) and 130 bucks for aluminum! Dang that crap ama just look at some local CNC guys.
So does anyone have any mk2 for sale? It can be in any condition but the drivers and the headband need to be working
truebuie
New Head-Fier
Heyo
So I've made the Alpha dogs from this guide and they're great.
I've just recently made an open-back version of them as well. Anybody who has made them their self who can tell me their experience? I'll gladly tell about mine if people would like to.
I'm new on Head-fi, so I'm sorry if this ain't the right place to post this.
So I've made the Alpha dogs from this guide and they're great.
I've just recently made an open-back version of them as well. Anybody who has made them their self who can tell me their experience? I'll gladly tell about mine if people would like to.
I'm new on Head-fi, so I'm sorry if this ain't the right place to post this.
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