I'm a 50 year old male with just slightly less than perfect hearing. On my O2 at unity gain driving my 300 Ohm HD 650's I generally have the volume control somewhere between 12 & 2 o'clock. Sometimes 3 o'clock with the addition of alcohol.
On my HD600 => unity Gain , 10h30 don't touch the volume plot and varying volume in foobar from -18dB to 0 dB .
I only turn up the knob for some very quiet classical pieces to 3 o'clock (when i want it loud) .
DT-880 600 ohms => same unity gain , but half curse (12 o'lock and crank up in extreme cases ) .
It tend to listen at low/moderate volume most times .
(ODAC as source) .
But as some said , 1X/3.5X some the most versatile setting (even if i choose 1X/2.5x , anyway as said i listen at moderate volume so
I'm a 50 year old male with just slightly less than perfect hearing. On my O2 at unity gain driving my 300 Ohm HD 650's I generally have the volume control somewhere between 12 & 2 o'clock. Sometimes 3 o'clock with the addition of alcohol.
On my LCD-2 Rev. 2, my volume is normally at 1 o'clock, loudest I could bear continuously is at 3 o'clock. Based on my limited research this is ok, with up to 4-5 o'clock as headroom, but I FEEL (not hear) like the amp is having a difficult time...lol
This is unity gain btw. I have custom 1/3.5x gain settings.
On my LCD-2 Rev. 2, my volume is normally at 1 o'clock, loudest I could bear continuously is at 3 o'clock. Based on my limited research this is ok, with up to 4-5 o'clock as headroom, but I FEEL (not hear) like the amp is having a difficult time...lol
This is unity gain btw. I have custom 1/3.5x gain settings.
I would go with top dead center ^_^ more an engine thing than an audiophile one.
edit: as far as the knob itself is concerned, the best position is maxed out, as this is where less resistance is applied and where channel imbalance has no reason to exist. but as to know how the amp likes it with that architecture, I really wouldn't know.
too low wouldn't be good for channel imbalance, too high might distort and clip. so middle is a safe bet in most situations I guess.
I would go with top dead center ^_^ more an engine thing than an audiophile one.
edit: as far as the knob itself is concerned, the best position is maxed out, as this is where less resistance is applied and where channel imbalance has no reason to exist. but as to know how the amp likes it with that architecture, I really wouldn't know.
too low wouldn't be good for channel imbalance, too high might distort and clip. so middle is a safe bet in most situations I guess.
Based on my not so comprehensive readings of Nwavguy's blogs, clipping at high volume pot positions would be non-existent at unity/no gain, only happens on true gains. So for unity gain, I think way past TDC won't knock the pistons...
Based on my not so comprehensive readings of Nwavguy's blogs, clipping at high volume pot positions would be non-existent at unity/no gain, only happens on true gains. So for unity gain, I think way past TDC won't knock the pistons...
Just got my ODAC+O2 a couple of weeks ago, and been listening extensively with Beyerdynamic T90 and Hifiman HE-400. Great for both. Unfortunately T90 sounds so good with it, now I don't use HE-400 for anything at all. Has also made my Yulong U100 useless. Just can't go back now.
By the way, to those who are looking to buy the JR Audio ODAC+O2 from China: The "2035 MK1" that goes for around 100 dollars is the one you want if you want one that's built according to the original design. The more expensive MK2 ($130) and MK3 ($150) have been modified to sound warmer, and that's the only difference aside from the shinier casing. When I asked JR Audio about it they amusingly said that "MK1 has the sound foreigners tend to like".
Just got my ODAC+O2 a couple of weeks ago, and been listening extensively with Beyerdynamic T90 and Hifiman HE-400. Great for both. Unfortunately T90 sounds so good with it, now I don't use HE-400 for anything at all. Has also made my Yulong U100 useless. Just can't go back now.
By the way, to those who are looking to buy the JR Audio ODAC+O2 from China: The "2035 MK1" that goes for around 100 dollars is the one you want if you want one that's built according to the original design. The more expensive MK2 ($130) and MK3 ($150) have been modified to sound warmer, and that's the only difference aside from the shinier casing. When I asked JR Audio about it they amusingly said that "MK1 has the sound foreigners tend to like".
I think he was referring to the perceived tendency of foreigners to gravitate towards neutral and analytical, and that they may actually have some other headphones than Sennheiser HD-650...
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