New- Zishan Z1 DSD player thread
Jun 6, 2017 at 11:44 AM Post #661 of 1,364
is the LME49720HA version so much better than the NA?
it's just it's 2x+ more expensive and then i have to sort the international shipping too, we don't have ANYTHING locally :frowning2:

I wasn't expecting much difference, and found them to be significantly different to my ears, and compared to my DX90 as a control.
 
Jun 6, 2017 at 12:00 PM Post #663 of 1,364
To my ears the NA sounds thinner, but still better than the 2604 in the Z1. Honestly I think the Z1 sounds even better now after burning in. The clarity and detail are there, but it sounds bigger and more spacious.
 
Jun 6, 2017 at 2:29 PM Post #666 of 1,364
Replaced the capacitors today, inspired by maxkur here:
http://player.ru/showthread.php?t=188998&page=14

I use google translate in Chrome since my russian is a little rusty.

I used
2 x ELNA RFS Audio SILMIC II [35V] 10uF
2 x NICHICON UFG series Fine gold MUSE audio[10V] 100uF
(note: the installed ones are 16V, but nothing has exploded at time of writing. Maxkur used 10V too). I paid around 7$ + shipping but can probably be found cheaper.

I don't even know which are input and which are output capacitors, or if something else would be even better, I just like their colors :k701smile: No, they seem recommended often and should be an upgrade to the installed ones. It took around 15 minutes and I have close to no previous experience with soldering.

I find it very difficult to judge differences when I can't A/B-test, but I'll take the chance and say I find the sound even cleaner, dynamic and snappier than before. The background is 100% black no matter how much I turn the knob. Its all extremely clean and black:L3000:

Old ones:
IMG_0624.jpg


New ones:
IMG_0625.jpg


With some wood:
IMG_0613.jpg
 
Jun 6, 2017 at 4:06 PM Post #669 of 1,364
@lecky Do you mean that the LME4972NA has better sound separation than LME49720HA, which has more treble?

The HA is more smooth and liquid sounding than the NA, or you might say that the NA is more textured than the HA. The NA has more mid presence as opposed to the HA which is probably more balanced. Most opamps in the Z1 seem to impart more presence in the mids than the DX90, the HA being the most like the DX90. I wouldn't describe the HA as being particularly more treble oriented, the treble lacks any harshness and isn't overly emphatic, it's just without that little extra bit of mid body. The HA seems to better allow sound to be able to float in as if from afar sometimes. The seductive liquid quality of the HA and DX90 can sound relatively a little artificial sometimes compared to the NA. The HA presents very cohesively - it's difficult to work out what that is, but it's distinctive - perhaps separation and clarity. Both have their virtues. I hope that helps.
 
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Jun 6, 2017 at 5:57 PM Post #671 of 1,364
@knudsen @lecky

Yes it did, thanks.
So how much better sq do you get from upgrading such things, is the stock parts crap in comparison? Any disappointment?

The stock opamp is not bad at all, nothing to complain about. It is possible to do worse than it in various particular regards. For instance I found one of the opamps (sorry, I don't remember which) to offer striking detail in a way that rendered everything unlistenably incohesive - perhaps it's something that someone might like, but for me it was a step in the wrong direction. And I find that when I swap them out even if there's an overall improvement in one way or another, there's usually something that another opamp does better, or differently in a way that was nice, so whilst there are improvements to be had, there's a strong element of subjectivity in the compromises you want to accept. Fortunately they're cheap enough that you can easily play. I do recommend having another player as a reference to help you track what's going on.

On another note I'm right now comparing the line out of the Z1 to that of the DX90 taking the amp of each out of the equation - from my laptop to the DAC of each, to my Cyrus 1 which is feeding my Hifiman HE500. It's difficult to say that one is better, not least since there are volume matching problems - the DX90 has a variable volume on the line out, the maximum volume of which is quieter than the fixed volume Z1 line out. I can say as much as that any differences between the DACs are more subtle than those introduced by the amps.
 
Jun 6, 2017 at 7:20 PM Post #672 of 1,364
The stock opamp is not bad at all, nothing to complain about. It is possible to do worse than it in various particular regards. For instance I found one of the opamps (sorry, I don't remember which) to offer striking detail in a way that rendered everything unlistenably incohesive - perhaps it's something that someone might like, but for me it was a step in the wrong direction. And I find that when I swap them out even if there's an overall improvement in one way or another, there's usually something that another opamp does better, or differently in a way that was nice, so whilst there are improvements to be had, there's a strong element of subjectivity in the compromises you want to accept. Fortunately they're cheap enough that you can easily play. I do recommend having another player as a reference to help you track what's going on.

On another note I'm right now comparing the line out of the Z1 to that of the DX90 taking the amp of each out of the equation - from my laptop to the DAC of each, to my Cyrus 1 which is feeding my Hifiman HE500. It's difficult to say that one is better, not least since there are volume matching problems - the DX90 has a variable volume on the line out, the maximum volume of which is quieter than the fixed volume Z1 line out. I can say as much as that any differences between the DACs are more subtle than those introduced by the amps.

What are the tools and resources, physical, educational, you need and suggest one to have at hand in order to be doing this, any particular guide to follow? I just searched yt and electronics basics came up.

I guess these are two different questions, what is needed to simply do the Lme49720ha replacement or to understand whether any op amp can be used with the Z1 and if appearance matters, which factors determine Compatibility, understanding how it all works what options there are etc.

I don't know if you can answer the general one as well, either way I appreciate your help, guv. :smiley_cat:
 
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Jun 6, 2017 at 7:56 PM Post #673 of 1,364
Replaced the capacitors today, inspired by maxkur here:
http://player.ru/showthread.php?t=188998&page=14

I use google translate in Chrome since my russian is a little rusty.

I used
2 x ELNA RFS Audio SILMIC II [35V] 10uF
2 x NICHICON UFG series Fine gold MUSE audio[10V] 100uF
(note: the installed ones are 16V, but nothing has exploded at time of writing. Maxkur used 10V too). I paid around 7$ + shipping but can probably be found cheaper.

I don't even know which are input and which are output capacitors, or if something else would be even better, I just like their colors :k701smile: No, they seem recommended often and should be an upgrade to the installed ones. It took around 15 minutes and I have close to no previous experience with soldering.

I find it very difficult to judge differences when I can't A/B-test, but I'll take the chance and say I find the sound even cleaner, dynamic and snappier than before. The background is 100% black no matter how much I turn the knob. Its all extremely clean and black:L3000:

Old ones:
IMG_0624.jpg


New ones:
IMG_0625.jpg


With some wood:
IMG_0613.jpg
Interesting. I find the Silmic II to be smoother and a bit warmish. The Nichicon will have more clarity as will the Cerafine. I am more than content with the stock configuration, until someone reveals an earth shattering cap combo. Opamps still make the biggest difference. Glad you are enjoying your cap upgrade. Warning it gets very addicting.:darthsmile:
 
Jun 6, 2017 at 8:35 PM Post #675 of 1,364
Do this, let's just try:
Turn your Z1 ON first.
Pause.
Insert USB cable.

I assume you're doing otherwise. V2s, on the other hand, can't be detected as DAC when you first insert cable, and pause.

and btw, I have to share that my V2s as dac has audible pops/clicks/cracklings (or whatever you call it). I already tried it both on mac and pc, and using three different cables. So it was really on the device. I hope your Z1 guys don't have this issue. I am thinking I will sell this V2s and buy Z1, once I have read enough comments about Z1's dac.

I found out that my Zishan needs to be turned off first, before I insert the cable and turn it on. Thankfully, the issue's fixed now
 

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