New hybrid amp by Little Dot, I+
Mar 21, 2017 at 3:28 AM Post #783 of 805
  i'm thinking to replace the pot on my ld i+. any idea how to remove the knob? should i just pull it out? doesnt seem to come off easily. thanks for any hints!

Not speaking of the 1+ but knobs in generall.. Pry them off with care. They are usually just pressed on the axle of the pot. I usually use as big of a screwdriver i can fit behind the knob and gently pry it off. Pry from different sides so it gets loose evenly. 
 
Mar 21, 2017 at 4:03 AM Post #784 of 805
  Not speaking of the 1+ but knobs in generall.. Pry them off with care. They are usually just pressed on the axle of the pot. I usually use as big of a screwdriver i can fit behind the knob and gently pry it off. Pry from different sides so it gets loose evenly. 

Yep, that's how I got mine off.  And be careful desoldering the pot.  Those pads/rings on that PCB lift really easy.  I had to follow some of the traces and run wires because I mangled mine a bit.   
 
Mar 21, 2017 at 6:46 AM Post #785 of 805
thanks guys for the directions! one more question if you don't mind: i'm thinking to get the alps blue velvet 100k logarithmic, i think the part number is RK27112, is that what i need? i know it's not a drop-in replacement and that i will need to use wires and all, just wondering if it's the right part to use. thanks!
 
Mar 21, 2017 at 8:02 AM Post #786 of 805
  thanks guys for the directions! one more question if you don't mind: i'm thinking to get the alps blue velvet 100k logarithmic, i think the part number is RK27112, is that what i need? i know it's not a drop-in replacement and that i will need to use wires and all, just wondering if it's the right part to use. thanks!

You should be able to make that work.  You'll likely need to grind down the spacer tab.  I actually have one of those but haven't gotten around to putting it in because I messed up the PCB so bad putting in my RK16.  Thanks for reminding me, I was looking for a project while I wait for some supplies to come in for something else I'm working on 
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Mar 21, 2017 at 10:24 AM Post #787 of 805
  You should be able to make that work.  You'll likely need to grind down the spacer tab.  I actually have one of those but haven't gotten around to putting it in because I messed up the PCB so bad putting in my RK16.  Thanks for reminding me, I was looking for a project while I wait for some supplies to come in for something else I'm working on 
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thanks, i guess i'll order one and go from there. good luck with your projects!
 
Mar 21, 2017 at 5:12 PM Post #788 of 805
Oh man, DT150 sounds really impressive with the little dot...Since the cans are from the 70s or so they might take good to a tube. Very impressive dynamics, bass is really coming alive.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 1:31 AM Post #789 of 805
  thanks, i guess i'll order one and go from there. good luck with your projects!

Started digging into it today.  It will be a very tight fit.  The front to back pin spacings are different so I will be either bending over or removing all 3 rear pins and running wires to R3, C1 and L Input.  I may have to insulate the pins as well if they are too close to the other components. Then I will use the PCB to mount the front 3 pins.  I still can't find anything that would cause the hum in my left channel, so I might try swapping the sides of the ceramic valve sockets and see if that makes any difference.  I also cleaned up some of the grounds just in case.  
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 4:36 AM Post #790 of 805
  Started digging into it today.  It will be a very tight fit.  The front to back pin spacings are different so I will be either bending over or removing all 3 rear pins and running wires to R3, C1 and L Input.  I may have to insulate the pins as well if they are too close to the other components. Then I will use the PCB to mount the front 3 pins.  I still can't find anything that would cause the hum in my left channel, so I might try swapping the sides of the ceramic valve sockets and see if that makes any difference.  I also cleaned up some of the grounds just in case.  

i was thinking to run wires from all the 6 pins to the other side of the board, i think i've seen some pictures of this mod, probably in this thread but cant find them right now.
 
i don't have any hum, but i have a wifi printer close to where i keep the amp and when thats on i can clearly hear noise in the right channel. as soon as i turn the printer off, it goes away. probably a different problem, but thought i should mention it anyway, it seems like this amp is prone to all kinds of interference.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 4:42 AM Post #791 of 805
i was thinking to run wires from all the 6 pins to the other side of the board, i think i've seen some pictures of this mod, probably in this thread but cant find them right now.

i don't have any hum, but i have a wifi printer close to where i keep the amp and when thats on i can clearly hear noise in the right channel. as soon as i turn the printer off, it goes away. probably a different problem, but thought i should mention it anyway, it seems like this amp is prone to all kinds of interference.
Yeah I tried testing it across the room since it is near my PC monitor, but it still had hum. I can only hear it on my NT6, which are very sensitive. It shouldn't be necessary to run wires from the front pins.

 
Mar 22, 2017 at 2:34 PM Post #793 of 805
Update! 
 
Got the Mullards today. First of it looks like a much better tube than the stock ones, so off to a good start. 
 
They sound quite a lot smoother and cleaner than the stock tubes. Treble is a bit toned down and bass is tighter and more controlled. Overall the sound is more refined across the board and there is less noise. Not that it was a hiss monster with the stock 6j1p tubes but now its pitch black on stock gain even with some grados thrown in the mix. 
 
I also ordered a matched pair of Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV. 
 

 

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