New from Garage1217, the solid-state Project Polaris!
Jul 5, 2016 at 6:54 PM Post #1,473 of 1,838


The fact that this is a home theatre receiver complicates that for me, i've never used one as a pre. It doesn't have a dedicated pre-out though. I imagine the md/cd-r outs (rcas between the coax digital input and the digital subwoofer out bottom left) will probably work as I think they are functionally equivalent to a tape loop out, but I am not positive. In terms of sound quality, almost any outboard dac will give you better sound. I am certain that the dac in your receiver was designed for cheap more than good. What are you using as a source for your music, as your receiver has no usb input?
 
Jul 5, 2016 at 7:35 PM Post #1,474 of 1,838
The fact that this is a home theatre receiver complicates that for me, i've never used one as a pre. It doesn't have a dedicated pre-out though. I imagine the md/cd-r outs (rcas between the coax digital input and the digital subwoofer out bottom left) will probably work as I think they are functionally equivalent to a tape loop out, but I am not positive. In terms of sound quality, almost any outboard dac will give you better sound. I am certain that the dac in your receiver was designed for cheap more than good. What are you using as a source for your music, as your receiver has no usb input?

 
My TV, Yamaha receiver, speakers, xbox, and desktop computer are all interconnected via digital optical cables, HDMI, and speaker wire.  It's one big happy family. 
 
My music source is my computer via digital optical and I can either use the TV to watch things from my computer or just cable tv or xbox by changing the input via HDMI.  I can switch between Yamaha receiver or a DAC/Amp via music input on the computer if I use both the speakers/headphone jack or a dac/amp via usb. I have a Fiio E10k but I'm probably selling it now that I purchased the Polaris. 
 
I did some research and the DAC is an AKM AK4628.  It's a pretty old receiver though. (Yamaha HTR-5840)
 
Jul 5, 2016 at 9:22 PM Post #1,475 of 1,838
I built the kit version of the Project Polaris a couple of months ago and I'm extremely happy with it. I hadn't built a kit since about 10 years ago but I have a decent soldering station so I went for it. The kit is very well designed and with a little bit of care it's possible to build one that looks as professional as a pre-built one. I know mine looks perfect. I spent about 10 hours total on it over 5 evenings. Two hours is about as much close work as I wanted to put in but I suppose it could be done a lot faster. 
 
I used a very old pair of Grado SR-60 for the initial power up, just to be safe. I was completely shocked by how good it made the Grado's sound! I got it mainly to use with my HE-560's and of course it works great with them also, but I was expecting that it would. The difference in the Grado's really blew me away. It's fun to just keep turning it up and hearing no strain, just a solid rise in the impact.
 
The only thing that didn't work was the LED in the middle but I contacted Jeremy and he said just pop it out and reverse it and it worked! 100% success.
 
For anyone considering building one here are a few tips:
 
1. Before beginning, print out the parts list (in the user manual) and do an inventory of what you got. Mine was missing a pair of caps and I was able to start building while I waited for Jeremy to send them. You don't want to be in the middle of it and find you don't have a part.
2. Use the solder he recommends. It's only $5 and cleanup is easy and I believe it contributes to the professional look of the finished product.
3. Follow the directions! Install the smallest components first and work your way up.
4. Keep a fan running somewhere nearby so you don't suffer too much of the fumes from soldering. It is lead after all.
5. To get the backing paper off of the covers, take a piece of duct tape and press it firmly(!) on one corner and then peel it back and the paper comes with it.
 
I'd love to build another one of their amps but I have no need of any. I highly recommend this amp.
 
Jul 5, 2016 at 10:18 PM Post #1,476 of 1,838
My TV, Yamaha receiver, speakers, xbox, and desktop computer are all interconnected via digital optical cables, HDMI, and speaker wire.  It's one big happy family. 

My music source is my computer via digital optical and I can either use the TV to watch things from my computer or just cable tv or xbox by changing the input via HDMI.  I can switch between Yamaha receiver or a DAC/Amp via music input on the computer if I use both the speakers/headphone jack or a dac/amp via usb. I have a Fiio E10k but I'm probably selling it now that I purchased the Polaris. 

I did some research and the DAC is an [COLOR=333333]AKM AK4628.  [/COLOR][COLOR=333333]It's a pretty old receiver though. (Yamaha HTR-5840)[/COLOR]


The dac in the fiio might actually be better than that in the Yamaha, don't know but it wouldn't surprise me. You might be surprised at how much better a more modern dac solution might sound. Then again, maybe not. Maybe someone else on this thread can tell you whether those record outs are line-level. Anyone? Good luck mate, congrats on the amp. Love mine.
 
Jul 5, 2016 at 10:45 PM Post #1,478 of 1,838
The dac in the fiio might actually be better than that in the Yamaha, don't know but it wouldn't surprise me. You might be surprised at how much better a more modern dac solution might sound. Then again, maybe not. Maybe someone else on this thread can tell you whether those record outs are line-level. Anyone? Good luck mate, congrats on the amp. Love mine.

 
 
  find out what dac chip in in both and we'll tell which which dac is better

 
 PCM5102 DAC is in the E10k and AKM AK4628 is in the Yamaha.
 
If they are both garbage I suppose I should just buy a DAC. 
 
Jul 5, 2016 at 10:47 PM Post #1,479 of 1,838
   
 
 
 PCM5102 DAC is in the E10k and AKM AK4628 is in the Yamaha.
 
If they are both garbage I suppose I should just buy a DAC. 


PCM5102 is trash
AK4628 is low end for AK/AKM DACs but should get the job done, nice and clean.
If you don't like the sound, look into other DACS
 
Jul 5, 2016 at 11:48 PM Post #1,480 of 1,838
The dac in the fiio might actually be better than that in the Yamaha, don't know but it wouldn't surprise me. You might be surprised at how much better a more modern dac solution might sound. Then again, maybe not. Maybe someone else on this thread can tell you whether those record outs are line-level. Anyone? Good luck mate, congrats on the amp. Love mine.

 
 
 
PCM5102 is trash
AK4628 is low end for AK/AKM DACs but should get the job done, nice and clean.
If you don't like the sound, look into other DACS

 
 

 

 
 
I got these from the manual.   Do any of these descriptions sound like these jacks would work as a pre-out for the Polaris?
 
Jul 5, 2016 at 11:52 PM Post #1,481 of 1,838
   
 
 
 

 

 
 
I got these from the manual.   Do any of these descriptions sound like these jacks would work as a pre-out for the Polaris?

 
   
 
 
 

 

 
 
I got these from the manual.   Do any of these descriptions sound like these jacks would work as a pre-out for the Polaris?

well the polaris already had a pre out...... . so i would try to bypass the preamp
 
looks like you want to use the front out and then maybe subwooder output if you whave one
 
Jul 6, 2016 at 6:26 AM Post #1,484 of 1,838
Contrary to the implications of what vapman said, you can't say a dac is "trash" just because of the chip it uses. If you are happy with the sound from the Yamaha, you should try to use it first if you don't want to spend money for an outboard dac. As to his advice re getting a signal to the polaris, i don't know what the hell he is talking about. I still think you can make it work by using the md/cd-r out jacks with rca cables to the polaris' in jacks.

While I believe you will probably get better sound (especially with headphones) from spending some extra $ on a dedicated dac, you can always do that later if necessary.
 

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