I agree grab a e12diy while you still can its a great amp.
Really good clean amp with room for updates. The extra battery voltage makes a difference with cans.
If you can find it check out the Aune B1 also. Similar price of the C5 and though I haven't heard the C5 yet, I think it will be a great contender of the C5 excluding the heat issue being a Class A amp (piggyback will give you a bad time, though using it seperately might be a good idea)
I agree grab a e12diy while you still can its a great amp.
Really good clean amp with room for updates. The extra battery voltage makes a difference with cans.
Wow. Thanks for the leads guys but I guess I will just pass for now.
As at now, I'm more of an iem guy and not really looking at headphones at the moment. The E12A fits my needs as I have some very sensitive iems and really glad that it fits my sound preference too. Not too much of a technical guy but I do enjoy my music and don't think I'll be messing with the diy even if I have one. Guess I'm hearing in part to the diy model which the E12A design was based on. Haha, I might be wrong to assume that though but will look out for a opportunity to audition if I can.
As for the Aune B1, guess heat is a no go for me as my Cayin C5 runs a little too warm and I only use it at home.
Thanks again guys for the warm welcome and leads. Cheers.
Ok, so firstly thanks for the feedback before on the E12A for my X3 and HD598 setup.
It arrived yesterday and I tried it out. In a moment of initial panic, I also ordered the E12 as I thought the E12A was too light on bass and that arrived this morning. So great to be able to try the E11k, E12 and E12A side by side.
And guess what, you were all right, the E12A is the clear winnner for my setup. (Other two being sent back as we speak).
Some observations:
E11k - I actually really like this and wanted it to be the one I kept. Its small size and immaculate finish along with a really smooth volume pot gave a lot to like. It sounded the 'right kind of warm' for me. However, once you hear the soundstage of the E12s you just can't go back to it. Thats too much to compromise on now.
E12 - No difference in size, weight or finish really to the E12A. Slightly stiffer volume pot. Sounded a bit more full bodied like the E11k only more so but with the bigger soundstage. Bass boost was also good but...
E12A - ... the E12A just seemed to take all of the great points of the E12 and refined it (to my ears anyway). I really noticed that the vocals didn't need to compete to be heard over the bass which I picked up on with the E12. I must admit, I don't like the grey 'v' the black and the finish, although sturdy, is not top class. I also seem to have one where the volume pot is just not exactly centred into the machined space in the body. Slightly annoying. But definitely the noticeable winner for me.
The thing is, this is all subjective and I'm sure I would not have really noticed any of them lacking until I tried the others. However, the E12A has the right balance for me and I'm super pleased.
Now to sit down and simply enjoy it.
Cheers to all.
I also seem to have one where the volume pot is just not exactly centred into the machined space in the body. Slightly annoying. But definitely the noticeable winner for me.
I thought I had the same problem, then I realized the clicky noise is just the amp turning on with some delay (like it happens with some active speakers).
I also quickly jumped from 11k to 12a, quite happy with it (driving Fidelio X2s and PFE 112).
Ouch, I know that sinking gut feeling when it doesn't turn on, im sorry to hear this.
If you put the muses02 back does it do nothing?
You could buy a e12diy and use the muses chips in it.
I doubt Muses01 doesn't enough voltage supply on the board E12A. Since this new amp reduce voltage, so it uses Muses02 instead of Muses01.
FYI, Muses02 run at lower voltage +/-3.5V, whilst Muse01 need at least +/-9V, so your Muses01 not properly powered. There is nothing happen with your E12A, just go back to Muses02.
BTW, is there socket adapter so you can change the opamp easily ? Please give us a pict
Ouch, I know that sinking gut feeling when it doesn't turn on, im sorry to hear this.
If you put the muses02 back does it do nothing?
You could buy a e12diy and use the muses chips in it.
I doubt Muses01 doesn't enough voltage supply on the board E12A. Since this new amp reduce voltage, so it uses Muses02 instead of Muses01.
FYI, Muses02 run at lower voltage +/-3.5V, whilst Muse01 need at least +/-9V, so your Muses01 not properly powered. There is nothing happen with your E12A, just go back to Muses02.
BTW, is there socket adapter so you can change the opamp easily ? Please give us a pict
I was told that the Muses01 will work fine I should have researched more about this before I tried it. I guess I will have to pay the price. So basically, I tried to pull out the Muses02 which is soldered on to the board and I broke two of it's legs. Of course, legs would not move because they are soldered on. This is where I was stupid. So I have a Muses02 on there with two broken legs. After seeing them break, I just left it because I don't want to make matters worse. When I turn it on, the blue light comes on, blinks for a couple seconds, and then just turns off. I'm thinking that it can't read the op amp (because of the two broken legs). The remaining 6 legs are attached and are fine. I have a bad habit of learning things the hard way. If I solder the tip of the broken legs back onto the op amp will they work again? Or is my best bet, desoldering the opamp completely off, trash the muses02 and put in my new muses01? I have no idea what to do. Please help me
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I should have researched more about this before I tried it. I guess I will have to pay the price. So basically, I tried to pull out the Muses02 which is soldered on to the board and I broke two of it's legs. Of course, legs would not move because they are soldered on. This is where I was stupid. So I have a Muses02 on there with two broken legs. After seeing them break, I just left it because I don't want to make matters worse. When I turn it on, the blue light comes on, blinks for a couple seconds, and then just turns off. I'm thinking that it can't read the op amp (because of the two broken legs). The remaining 6 legs are attached and are fine. I have a bad habit of learning things the hard way. If I solder the tip of the broken legs back onto the op amp will they work again? Or is my best bet, desoldering the opamp completely off, trash the muses02 and put in my new muses01? I have no idea what to do. Please help me 
