[west0ne]

Humm
After updating to the latest iOS release my red suddenly stopped working on both my phone and tablet (led stays red indeed when connected..) does anyone faced this issue as well ? Could not find any complaint ok google

Are you using an official Apple USB CCK, I've seen reports of issues with third party cables.

 

[west0ne]

  I tried the FiiO Q1 with my MacBook Pro and iPhone7+ with B&O H6. Source is 360 bitrate and ALAC files. I did a blind test and I couldn't tell the difference and I ended up liking the MacBook Pro 2015 sound signature more than the Q1 with my B&O H6

B&O H6 are not hard to drive earphones, so I'm looking at the DFB and purchase Apple Lighting to USB 3 cable for my iPhone 7.
 
My question is, anyone compared FiiO Q1 or e17K to DFB? Its of cause a different segment, one is a DAC/preamp and very portable and FiiO is more dac/amp combo with dedicated power.
 
I'm reading through the reviews from pg 1, so it might take some time to stumble upon my answer. Thought to leave a comment to get some answers.
 
Also does the jitterbug really help?
 
Cheers.

I find the DFB to have an overall better sound than the Q1, greater clarity, more detail and more depth. I would say the Q1 has more power though but it doesn't sound like that would be an issue in your setup.

 

[ashmodai]

Are you using an official Apple USB CCK, I've seen reports of issues with third party cables.

Actually I started wondering when seeing that I was the only one with the issue. At least I thought I had an original and I bought it as one. I looked on apple web site about how to know if you got a fake but all the visual clues they give do not apply (I mean mine looks legit)

 

[Slaphead]

Actually I started wondering when seeing that I was the only one with the issue. At least I thought I had an original and I bought it as one. I looked on apple web site about how to know if you got a fake but all the visual clues they give do not apply (I mean mine looks legit)

These CCKs can and do fail occasionally. It might be that yours has bit the electronic dust.

Do you have another known good USB device that's compatible with iOS to test it with. Like, for instance, another USB 2 class compliant DAC/Amp, or a USB MIDI keyboard?

 

[foreverzer0]

I can safely say my dfr is also working on the latest iOS 10.2 right now.

 

[georgelai57]

Audioquest's website says that the pops and clicks problem does not arise if one uses the newer Apple USB3 Camera Adapter - the one with both USB and Lightning inputs at one end. Can any owner testify to this please? Thanks.

 

[barbes]

Audioquest's website says that the pops and clicks problem does not arise if one uses the newer Apple USB3 Camera Adapter - the one with both USB and Lightning inputs at one end. Can any owner testify to this please? Thanks.

Yes, it's true. Had problems on my iPhone 6S with various music players and with Tidal. The new CCK fixed everything. It sounds noticeably better as well. It's clunkier, which is too bad.

 

[foreverzer0]

However it still has issues on iOS when other sounds play, probably with a different sampling rate. It starts to have digital artifacting and you have to reseat it.

 

[ronin22]

Hi there
 
I have both the black and red version of this item and i'm wondering if someone can help me understand something with these.  The red model is suppose to put out more volume than the black so how come when i'm using the black the system volume in the tray says 4% but when i switch to the red, to get the same loudness i have to turn the volume up to 14%? I'm using the laptops USB and streaming tidal but not touching the volume on the application.  I would expect it to be the other way around? Many thanks.

 

[CactusPete23]

  Hi there
 
I have both the black and red version of this item and i'm wondering if someone can help me understand something with these.  The red model is suppose to put out more volume than the black so how come when i'm using the black the system volume in the tray says 4% but when i switch to the red, to get the same loudness i have to turn the volume up to 14%? I'm using the laptops USB and streaming tidal but not touching the volume on the application.  I would expect it to be the other way around? Many thanks.

As I understand it, the Red is a linear (and digitally controlled) volume scale.  While the Black's volume scale is different.  At full output the Red will be louder.  Somewhere in this thread the rep from Audioquest explained it.

 

[ronin22]

Ahhhh I see, thanks for the reply sorry since it's been asked before.

 

[jegnyc]

Audioquest's website says that the pops and clicks problem does not arise if one uses the newer Apple USB3 Camera Adapter - the one with both USB and Lightning inputs at one end. Can any owner testify to this please? Thanks.

I can confirm as well.  I can also confirm that I had no problem with the most recent iOS download (using the USB3 adapter - didn't test with the older one).

 

[ashmodai]

I suppose try it on a computer.

Thank to all for your suggestions
I did connect it to a mac and everything worked great. I tried my cck with a ... camera and nothing happened ... I guess I am lucky enough to have a legit but faulty cck (not even 6months old ...)
Thanks again for your help

 

[smellyoldgoat]

I just bought the Dragonfly Black 1.5 and I'm using it with my iPhone 7 Plus (iOS 10.1.1) and the non-charging Apple CCK along with an Early 2015 MacBook Air. 
 
When I use the DFB with my Mac it's crystal clear. However, I am also experiencing pops and crackling when playing audio from my 7+.
 
One thing that I have noticed is that the longer I use the DFB with my phone, the less the popping happens. When I first started using it, the popping happened at least several times during a single song. Now, it maybe happens once every few songs. I've also noticed that the popping rarely happens on the YouTube App and happens more with the iOS music app. Spotify is somewhere in-between.
 
I hope this gets fixed with a firmware fix on the Dragonfly. I understand that the newer Apple CCK doesn't have this issue but that adapter is bulkier and I really don't need the charging capability.

 

[ubikutz]

Hi,

Sorry if this was asked before, just combed the thread but no luck.
 
I'm a bit concerned about volume control with low impedance / high sensitivity headphones as the Dragonfly v1.2 was a poor match with my Sennheiser IE80 IEMs due to the volume control.
 
When connected to my mac, already at the first volume tick out of 16 it was quite loud for me so i had really limited volume control.
I was also quite afraid what would happen if by mistake myself or some software gesture would accidently turn the volume all the way up and either blowing my ears up or damage the IEMs. 
 
May seem unlikely but just a week ago i had an accident with my iphone - it woke up in my pocket while listening to music and somehow the volume bar got dragged to max because of proximity to the skin in the pocket. Luckily it does not have a lot of power and it was of limited consequence, but if that would have been dragonfly connected, I’m afraid what would have happened. 
Had a similar accident with my windows machine when gaming last night… volume was at 26/100 but the game i was playing had a hiccup and accidently set the volume to 100/100. 
 
I’m looking at either Grado SR125e / Grado SR325e or Hifiman 400s as matches for the Dragonfly Red.
The Grados are 32ohms with SPL 1mW: 99.8 dB while the Hifimans are 22 ohms with 98dB rated sensitivity.
I usually listen around 60dba for longer listening sessions.
 
My question is, does the volume control work for this kind of headphones when connected to a mac / windows / iphone? What kind of usable volume range do you usually get for normal listening levels?
I’m afraid that in order to get normal listening volume I would need to have to stick to really low volume settings on the OS and i have no idea how to really prevent accidents except by going for a DAC with external volume controls. 

Thanks!