[west0ne]

Thanks for your tips.
I followed the steps and now I can use all my apps with DFB.
Very usefull information!

Trimis de pe al meu SM-N9005 folosind Tapatalk

If you use something like Tasker or $scripter you can even create yourself some simple volume control buttons. With Tasker you can go so far as to create a standalone app with volume buttons for your DFB. This approach starts to make the DFB much more usable in everyday use.
 
The command you need the script to run is.
 
alsa_amixer -c1 -q set PCM 1dB+
 
This will increase the volume by 1 step if you change the '+' to a '-' it will reduce the volume by 1 step. The '-q' flag just prevents any visual feedback on the command.
 
You can also use 'mute' or 'unmute' commands after the 'set PCM' to mute and unmute the volume.
 
The Alsa manpages will provide details of all the commands available, although not all work with the Android version of Alsa.

 

[LunaC]

I'm noticing the same thing. I believe it was the audio mixer on the iphone trying to mix in system notification sounds at 44.1khz. I specifically noticed it when I received an email and the audio was distorted. Turning on the mute switch fixed it for me.

I purchased the lightning to USB/camera connection kit with the extra power port on it and the issue is gone. I've been using it and need to swap back to the original usb3 one to see if comes back but I forget to try ...something to do with enjoying the DFR with the Andromeda I'll report back the result as verification of solution

 

[LunaC]

I haven't noticed this issue. I'm listening to a 24/96 track and just a got text and the notification sounded normal and the music muted slightly while the notification played. Haven't tried streaming though.

My issue was definitely noise/interference from buffering music, not the mixer. I'm always on vibrate

 

[gr8soundz]

Searched the thread but couldn't find this exact info:
 
I'm looking at the Dragonfly to use as a tiny desktop dac. Getting tired of my larger dacs taking up space plus all the buttons/knobs. DF has no battery to worry about, no physical controls, and no drivers to install. Don't mind (potentially) giving up a bit of sound quality for simplicity.
 
Question is which Dragonfly (Black or Red) might work better as a preamp (connected to a separate headphone amp)?
 
Most of the time, I won't be using headphones direct to the Dragonfly so not sure if the audio differences between the two will have as much impact going to an external amp. Also, after reading a few post where users say the Black might be more powerful (though less refined), something tells me specs (like 1.2V max output for Black and 2.1V for Red) may not be the best guide.
 

 

[donunus]

red would be better for that due to higher quality sound and higher output

 

[gr8soundz]

  red would be better for that due to higher quality sound and higher output

 
Thanks. That's what I was thinking. But after reading some of the thread, differences between the two don't seem as simple.
 
Higher cost of the Red isn't a big deal but, if I'm going to continue up the scale, I'm afraid I'll end up where I started.
 
Was going to get the RL Herus+ with the same ES9010 chip as the DF Black but the Herus is 2 years older (and 4x the cost). Two years is a long time in dac tech and, having heard neither, can't see the Herus sounding that much better (if at all) than either Dragonfly.
 

 

[west0ne]

I have run the Black through the Vali2 amp and have to say it worked perfectly well, as you are aware the Red & Black do sound different and that will come through when you put them through an external amp and then it comes down to what sound you prefer.

 

[gr8soundz]

  I have run the Black through the Vali2 amp and have to say it worked perfectly well, as you are aware the Red & Black do sound different and that will come through when you put them through an external amp and then it comes down to what sound you prefer.

 
Thanks.
 
I have a Vali 1 on the way (don't use iems nor roll tubes and the ringing flaw was resolved) so that is good to know. I may order both Dragonflys (both combined still less than Herus) and keep the one that sounds best with it.
 

 

[donunus]

If you want a less transparent drier sound and want to save money then get the black but if you want more detail and depth and just a generally higher end sound then the red will be better. This was based on jriver use and I have no comments about mobile phone usage

 

[recon56]

Anyone notice a slightly noisy filter or muffling effect on the Dragonfly Red's output? I am comparing the dragonfly to the FiiO E10k and the E10K sounds clearer and crisp. I am using the Roon app with TIDAL streaming and have both DACs set to 16-bit/44100hz output format.  

 

[psikey]

With my highly sensitive Shure SE846's connected ti my DFR via Android UAPP or PC JRiverMC its super clear and dead silent just like a Chord Mojo. I usually get annoyed if any background hiss of any kind. I'm amazed how good SQ is comparwd the Mojo actually.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[donunus]

Finally got to compare the red and the black along with the lhlabs go1000. Black=good value for the money but lacks depth and speakers don't dissapear. A little dry and lacking in depth. A jitterbug improves the depth a little but takes the price up to 150. LH Labs GO1000 better depth and more complete sounding than the black and improves with the jitterbug as well. The Red=Blows both out of the water in detail, tightness, depth wow! The red also sounds best to me without the jitterbug in the chain. But all improve a little with the jitterbug plugged in another USB port. The change in the sound of the jitterbug in the chain vs on another USB port is always bigger but on the red, I found the jitterbug's effects less desirable in the chain.

The system tested was Magnepan MMGs and a subwoofer connected to Adcom Separates coming from JRiver 22. I also compared the black to the LHLabs a week ago on my custom DIY Horn speaker system.

follow up: doing a comparison on my diy horns of the df red against the lhlabs go1000 fully warmed up and it is a different story. The go1k has more depth, meat but is just as detailed and sounds better overall. I'm thinking with the geek out, warm up is a significant factor since it is a class A design and since it wasnt warm when tested out of my house with the magnepans, it was not sounding as good as it could while when tested on my system, it was already connected for at least a day when tested. I just remembered that it was a class A design and warm up is critical for this type of thing.

 

[rhadorn]

Audioquest say DFR shall also be warmed up one day before being measured. Did you warm up both devices before comparing them?

 

[pkcpga]

Audioquest say DFR shall also be warmed up one day before being measured. Did you warm up both devices before comparing them?

Why would you warm the dfr or any plug and play portable DAC up before measuring, that's not a realistic way that 99% of people would use the device? It's a portable plug and play device that's been advertised to use quickly on the go, so the numbers will be more realistic to the way it's being used if you take measurements a few minutes after starting up.

 

[good sound]

Audioquest say DFR shall also be warmed up one day before being measured. Did you warm up both devices before comparing them?

Why would you warm the dfr or any plug and play portable DAC up before measuring, that's not a realistic way that 99% of people would use the device? It's a portable plug and play device that's been advertised to use quickly on the go, so the numbers will be more realistic to the way it's being used if you take measurements a few minutes after starting up.

And the GO isn't?