I think inaudible want to know how long it takes after the order is placed until Burson send it.
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New: Burson Audio Play Amp/DAC (2W@16Ohm) (op-amp rollers dream)
- Thread starter ostewart
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- burson burson audio play
Hemmelighetsklassifisert
New Head-Fier
A misinterpretation on my part, it took them 5 days from i placed my order til it was sent.
I took mine to a teacher i have and asked what could be wrong, he said it's most likely something in the heaphone jack that's broken but it can be easily fixed by buying a new one and soldering it on. But i have ordered the 1.1v motherboard so hopefully when that arrives my problem will go away.
Just did the test on my unit - it's the new version - got it about a week ago.
Yes, it plays simultaneously on RCA output and on headphones. It's by design it seems. The RCA output just takes the signal from the headphone output using some attenuating circuit.
raoultrifan
Headphoneus Supremus
What attenuation circuit, please? I'm having PCB v1.6 and there's no such thing. Could you please take a picture with the "attenuation circuit"? Thanks!
I just suppose about that, because it seems the RCA output are linked to the headphone output and it should be some impedance adapter or something.
I didn't made an analysis of the circuit board. Just the test to see if I get output on RCA in the same time with headphones.
I didn't made an analysis of the circuit board. Just the test to see if I get output on RCA in the same time with headphones.
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raoultrifan
Headphoneus Supremus
RCA is connected directly to output transistors, this is why you need to reduce the volume level to about 40% or so while listening to RCA connected amplifier/speakers.
Good thing is with such a low output impedance you should be able to interconnect devices by using longer cables.
Good thing is with such a low output impedance you should be able to interconnect devices by using longer cables.
Yes, but there is some attenuation on the RCA - I've conected my headphones to the RCA output and I can go up with the volume about 2-3 times more than on the headphone output.
Did this some time ago by accident on my Conductor Air aqnd noticed this and did it again ( this time on purpose ) with the old unit to see if it's hum also on the RCA - it was - but at a very lower level.
Did this some time ago by accident on my Conductor Air aqnd noticed this and did it again ( this time on purpose ) with the old unit to see if it's hum also on the RCA - it was - but at a very lower level.
raoultrifan
Headphoneus Supremus
Hmmm...that's good to know then, thank you!
If you can find this attenuation circuit it would be awesome to take a pic and share it here. Thanks again!
If you can find this attenuation circuit it would be awesome to take a pic and share it here. Thanks again!
If I can see it without removing the board, no problem.
It should be however something simple - 2 or 3 resistors for each channel.
It should be however something simple - 2 or 3 resistors for each channel.
Well... It seems it's nothing visible...
Anyway as I was worried a bit about the temperatures, I've borrowed a lab thermometer and did some checks on the unit.
I was wrong. Without any feet - placed directly on the furniture, sensor placed between the bottom of the unit and the furniture I got about 44-45 degrees Celsius ( small variations between the 2 values ), with room temperature at 24 degrees Celsius. The top cover gets about 40.
Did also a measurement inside with the cover put on ( however this one was more approximative as a fair one would mean to drill a hole in the cover to insert the sensor - I just placed the cover over, so the cover was not a perfect fit ) and I got about 48 degrees Celsius. So there is no worry about the temperature if using as standalone.
More, after about an hour of running the temperatures are stable, whatever the unit runs for 2 or 5 hours - no changes.
Mounted in a PC may however pose some problems as the 5.25 bay area is usually not ventilated - in my case the temperature near these bays are about 32 degrees with room temp about 24 - but is not a gaming PC and there is nothing hot nearby. In a gaming PC with a lot of heat generated by CPU and video cards, and the Play itself it might get a 20 degrees more hotter.
I also tested some new OP-AMP configuration and I think I will stuck with V6 Classic in I/V and all the others V6 Vivid. It seems it gives the most neutral sound I can get.
Funny, that was the configuration I've choose for the first unit based on the wrong schematics.
Tested also all 3 dual op-amps as V6 Classic but after 5 songs I get bored by the sound. Voices takes to much control over the instruments.
Anyway as I was worried a bit about the temperatures, I've borrowed a lab thermometer and did some checks on the unit.
I was wrong. Without any feet - placed directly on the furniture, sensor placed between the bottom of the unit and the furniture I got about 44-45 degrees Celsius ( small variations between the 2 values ), with room temperature at 24 degrees Celsius. The top cover gets about 40.
Did also a measurement inside with the cover put on ( however this one was more approximative as a fair one would mean to drill a hole in the cover to insert the sensor - I just placed the cover over, so the cover was not a perfect fit ) and I got about 48 degrees Celsius. So there is no worry about the temperature if using as standalone.
More, after about an hour of running the temperatures are stable, whatever the unit runs for 2 or 5 hours - no changes.
Mounted in a PC may however pose some problems as the 5.25 bay area is usually not ventilated - in my case the temperature near these bays are about 32 degrees with room temp about 24 - but is not a gaming PC and there is nothing hot nearby. In a gaming PC with a lot of heat generated by CPU and video cards, and the Play itself it might get a 20 degrees more hotter.
I also tested some new OP-AMP configuration and I think I will stuck with V6 Classic in I/V and all the others V6 Vivid. It seems it gives the most neutral sound I can get.
Funny, that was the configuration I've choose for the first unit based on the wrong schematics.
Tested also all 3 dual op-amps as V6 Classic but after 5 songs I get bored by the sound. Voices takes to much control over the instruments.
raoultrifan
Headphoneus Supremus
You shouldn't be worried about the temperature, it's perfectly fine for a Class-A amplifier. The heat actually comes from the output stage transistors and the two +5V power regulators that are all kept at the bottom of the case with screws. These semiconductors can operate up to 125C without worries. If the case would heat up to 70C I would understand your concern, but 45C is a joke for these big transistors and the power regulators too.
In case you really think the inside temperature could be a problem, then you could probably use some special thermal double-tape and stick a couple of heatsinks on the XMOS and the HS-100B ADC chip, though not recommended.
In case you really think the inside temperature could be a problem, then you could probably use some special thermal double-tape and stick a couple of heatsinks on the XMOS and the HS-100B ADC chip, though not recommended.
WilliamLeonhart
Headphoneus Supremus
As the upper lid can be removed easily perhaps we could remove it and put it inside the range of an AC unit? Used to work well for my old computer which ran an AMD card and chip combo, but I’m not sure if we can ALWAYS count on it.
selvakumar
100+ Head-Fier
check my picture added heatsink to xmos,DAC chipYou shouldn't be worried about the temperature, it's perfectly fine for a Class-A amplifier. The heat actually comes from the output stage transistors and the two +5V power regulators that are all kept at the bottom of the case with screws. These semiconductors can operate up to 125C without worries. If the case would heat up to 70C I would understand your concern, but 45C is a joke for these big transistors and the power regulators too.
In case you really think the inside temperature could be a problem, then you could probably use some special thermal double-tape and stick a couple of heatsinks on the XMOS and the HS-100B ADC chip, though not recommended.
raoultrifan
Headphoneus Supremus
Don't see the pic, sorry, but here's mine.
However, I don't recommend any heatsinks on the inside PlAY's chips, the internal temp is just fine as it is...honestly.
However, I don't recommend any heatsinks on the inside PlAY's chips, the internal temp is just fine as it is...honestly.
Well, I was worried a bit due to the small 85 C electrolitic capacitors on the new board. The big ones are 105 C rated.
That's why I did the measurements. At hand it looks more hotter. Seems that I have no reasons to worry - I don't intend to put it in my PC - had no free 5" bays
That's why I did the measurements. At hand it looks more hotter. Seems that I have no reasons to worry - I don't intend to put it in my PC - had no free 5" bays
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