[comzee]

I use the HDPLEX + its LPS. Good start for building your own PC (well I have no skills so I had someone build for me)

I would have already bought an HDPlex + LPS, but I've been going to their website for the last 4 months and never seen their stuff in stock...
As far as building the PC, that's a cake walk for me, I just can't even order it.

Whatever solution I end up with, I'm just going to install Roon server on it, for streaming Tidal and Qobuz.

 

[Chopin75]

I would have already bought an HDPlex + LPS, but I've been going to their website for the last 4 months and never seen their stuff in stock...
As far as building the PC, that's a cake walk for me, I just can't even order it.

Whatever solution I end up with, I'm just going to install Roon server on it, for streaming Tidal and Qobuz.

There are also NUC solutions, you can check out this crazy thread:

https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/...reaming/page/606/?tab=comments#comment-998456

IT is really long!! Too many topics but you can politely post to ask if they can perhaps link u to the right page! Many use NUCs with LPS eg from Paul Hynes.... but it does tell anything from SW, HW, RAM, CPU, screwing around with PC setting, :LPS etc........

Regards to HDPlex, email Larry directly. He is currently making a new HDplex 300 W LPS, not sure if he is making a new PC box or not.

(we better stay within R7/R8 topic! )

 

[guzz46]

I don't want to go off topic, but since a lot of people here are getting the DI-20 and know about DDC stuff...
I want to build a streaming PC for cleaner USB output to use for my DDC (su-6 and eventually DI-20HE).

I want the PC to be fanless, have a linear power supply, and has at least one PCIE 1x slot for this card.
I would buy a kit from https://hdplex.com/ but they're constantly sold out.
I also found this as an all in one solution, but no idea how good the USB would be on it.

Ideas?

Or you could buy one of these https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/netw...li-reclocker-audio-gd-compatible-p-13064.html
I've got one and it sounds great, its relatively cheap, and you can bypass your DDC because it has an i2s output, it basically takes the i2s straight from the pi then reclocks it and sends it to your dac, it benefits from a linear power supply, I brought this one https://allo.com/sparky/shanti.html it has two outputs, I ended up using the other output to power my 2tb SSD, which oddly made a bigger difference than it did for the pi, I'm not sure if it plays DSD.

 

[motberg]

I would have already bought an HDPlex + LPS, but I've been going to their website for the last 4 months and never seen their stuff in stock...
As far as building the PC, that's a cake walk for me, I just can't even order it.

Whatever solution I end up with, I'm just going to install Roon server on it, for streaming Tidal and Qobuz.

I have the HDPlex 400W full ATX supply, it works very well and I think they may be out of stock due to development of a new 500W version. (I will use this with a R8 when I get the budget allowance)
If you can build a computer then this is a great option, but be aware that, imho and experience, the SQ may be more dependent on software than the hardware... so you will be limited by Roon unless you use it as a front end for something else, the AS thread that is mentioned above has quite a few Roon users...

 

[517269]

Hmm, so the Bybees can be placed right around the PCB for the transformers ? I was told by WH audio it works mainly on analogue board but maybe I was looking at the wrong Bybee. Which type of Bybees are you using?

Interesting article about the transformers, as toroidal is so commonly used that it is though they are best but it seems EI core can be as food or better (hence used in tube gear??) . I know toroidal is easy to put in a box as it is not radiating too much RF. R-core supposedly has best of both Ei and Toroidal but somehow not used much in US. Much more common in Asia, like China and my old Sony Esoteric uses R-core.
A R-core regenerator or isolator seems ideal, but the only R core regen is the one from Kingwa that I know of. A separate stand alone regenerator or isolator does not need to be toroidal as it can be placed far from other equipment and so can be EI Or R-core which then is less susceptible to DC noise. EI can be a bit hummy though, I think it tends to be noisy, not sure why. R-Core seems ideal then, no noise and resistant to DC noise.....

I use the small Gold purifiers right after the bridge rectifiers at the top of the transformer board in the R8HE. Need one for the + and -/Gnd for maximum performance. I found in line with the clock supply opens the soundstage by 25%. If you put them on the analog supplies (2 purifiers/channel) an obvious grain will be eliminated.
It's peculiar how the composite audio experience has so many distortions added together that until one gets eliminated, you wouldn't have known it was there.
Regarding torroids, as I understand them, while they don't radiate, they do let the most noise go right through them. I don't speak from first hand measurements but EI core provide best S/N. I have 11 of them in my room and there have been times where at the beginning, it felt like the whole room was resonating. I put them in a chassis which may attenuate some mechanical noise...

I built separate oversized DC blockers [to handle very high current draw from the Krells] with very high quality parts [mundorf electrolytics, 100A bridge rectifiers, aluminum chassis, gold fuses] but [I suspect] the 1.4V of maximum DC blockage [Kingwa mentions 1.2V] was not enough in my case. I would have had to double the chassis size and parts count to double the blockage to up to 2.8Vdc. So I decided that I didn't want the real estate, expense, or the time for rebuild to try it out. I moved my refridgerator and a few other things in the breaker panel to the other phase under the assumption that the DC offset is caused by much more current being supplied by one phase. It still hums but not to the offensive degree that I started out with. I don't have an oscilliscope to see what's occuring on the line and as J&K Audio asserts, measuring the DC on the line is difficult.
I'm still waiting on 12 more small gold purifiers. I found you can negotiate the price and like cables, these are probably very high margin parts. Once you try them you never want to go back. The silver purifiers are good but if you're going to do it use the Gold. I'm looking to apply them on all my analog power supplies after the rectifiers. With that in mind, I assert that if you start with the clock feed, you will be delighted as it opens up the holography by 25% like upgrading to a much better clock. I hope this helps....

 

[517269]

I'm trying to update the Amanero FW and can't find the P3 traces that need shorting as illustrated in the Amanero proceedure.
Can anyone guide me to where P3 traces are and does the board need to be removed to access them? Thank you.

 

[Il Cuffiotto]

I'm trying to update the Amanero FW and can't find the P3 traces that need shorting as illustrated in the Amanero proceedure.
Can anyone guide me to where P3 traces are and does the board need to be removed to access them? Thank you.

Audio gd Amanero boards are made under licence and differently layouted. If you search on Audio gd site, you'll find a section dedicated to this, explaining with pictures where you need to short. It will be easier than you think. Upgrade it just if you need to have pcm/dsd compatibility with linux based streamers. Otherwise, better not to touch it.

 

[mivarpet]

I'm trying to update the Amanero FW and can't find the P3 traces that need shorting as illustrated in the Amanero proceedure.

The pads are on this page - http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/Amanero/AmaneroEN.htm

Firmware here - http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/Amanero/AmaneroEN.htm & here - https://www.head-fi.org/threads/new...tor-ladder-dacs.853902/page-327#post-15126936

 

[517269]

Audio gd Amanero boards are made under licence and differently layouted. If you search on Audio gd site, you'll find a section dedicated to this, explaining with pictures where you need to short. It will be easier than you think. Upgrade it just if you need to have pcm/dsd compatibility with linux based streamers. Otherwise, better not to touch it.

Thank you. Antipodes CX/EX Linux USB

 

[517269]

The pads are on this page - http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/Amanero/AmaneroEN.htm

Firmware here - http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/Amanero/AmaneroEN.htm & here - https://www.head-fi.org/threads/new...tor-ladder-dacs.853902/page-327#post-15126936

Appreciate the detail!

 

[mivarpet]

No problem. I recently helped a friend update his Amanero firmware and had kept all the links (it took some hunting at the time)

 

[Jackula]

Does anyone using the Amanero USB input on the R7/HE have issues with it locking to PCs?

I have two PCs, one for music and the other for movies, and I use a USB switch to switch between the two. With my last DAC this setup was fine, but with the R7HE it seems to remember which PC it's connected to and refuse to connect to the new PC via the USB switch.

This was the reason my NUC (movie player) couldn't see the DAC. But once I got my NUC seeing the DAC, my music PC couldn't. I was only able to get my PC seeing the DAC after two manually events, I'm not exactly sure which one had worked as I was trying everything to get the DAC working:

1. Manually eject the Amanero USB from the list of USB devices on the NUC.
2. Switched off the R7HE for 30 minutes before my music PC could see it.

Wondering if there's a reliable quick fix to get the DAC connected to different PCs without fiddling with USB settings.

 

[FredA]

Does anyone using the Amanero USB input on the R7/HE have issues with it locking to PCs?

I have two PCs, one for music and the other for movies, and I use a USB switch to switch between the two. With my last DAC this setup was fine, but with the R7HE it seems to remember which PC it's connected to and refuse to connect to the new PC via the USB switch.

This was the reason my NUC (movie player) couldn't see the DAC. But once I got my NUC seeing the DAC, my music PC couldn't. I was only able to get my PC seeing the DAC after two manually events, I'm not exactly sure which one had worked as I was trying everything to get the DAC working:

1. Manually eject the Amanero USB from the list of USB devices on the NUC.
2. Switched off the R7HE for 30 minutes before my music PC could see it.

Wondering if there's a reliable quick fix to get the DAC connected to different PCs without fiddling with USB settings.

Would be an issue with the amanero, a very stange one to say the least...

 

[Jackula]

Would be an issue with the amanero, a very stange one to say the least...

Yeah my gut feel is a faulty Amanero board that isn't following low level USB protocols, but was hoping someone else had the same issue. I guess it won't matter once the DI-20HE is here, I could have the movie PC always connected directly to the DAC USB and the music PC connected to the DI-20HE USB.

 

[FredA]

Yeah my gut feel is a faulty Amanero board that isn't following low level USB protocols, but was hoping someone else had the same issue. I guess it won't matter once the DI-20HE is here, I could have the movie PC always connected directly to the DAC USB and the music PC connected to the DI-20HE USB.

Can't wait to get mine, the early comments on audio-gd's forum are towards it being reference level...