[DACLadder]

This is the first time I'm actually tempted to invest in some better power cables. Sadly my finances have taken a huge hit recently, so I can't really do that yet.
R2R7 HE really despises bad interconnect cables ( which hasn't happened to me before, I always thought cables can only add that final 1% ), so I'd assume something better than my 25$ Tomanek power cable would help it reach even higher level.

And also, since my DAC is sloooowly reaching something like 500h, I figured I might finally start trying different settings again. I know there are 171 pages of this thread and I've seen so many variations, it got confusing.
What are Your all-time favourite jumper settings for both 8xOS and NOS?

With V2 firmware OS x8 and the default jumpers. Going to x4, x2, and OS NOS jumper narrows to stage and warms up the sound accordingly with each step down. NOS 3 is a good mode to try. Some people prefer its warm, honest presentation.

Power cables are probably the least affected but you may want something better than the supplied plastic cable. I used Furukawa's from Ebay ($65) which were nice but very thick. I had to return to Pangea AC14SE ($50) to fit with the new power conditioner. I am afraid to try any power cables more expensive as I may like them! Same with interconnects!

 

[Wynnytsky]

A friend brought over a budget Furutech power cable (G-314ag or G-320ag) and on my preamp I pitted it against my $700 cable. The sound when from pinched and over focused to relaxed and wide open. When time permits I'd like to re-eval my power cable choices.

I recently played with power distribution. Most fancy strips add some degree of filtering and surge suppression. Plugging into the wall directly gives you a preview of what an expensive strip might sound like, because it's expensive to employ surge suppression that doesn't effect the sound. I sold my PS Audio P3 and an old blue circle thingee. My amps & pre are going into a splitter box (cullen) with zero filtering and protection. That just sounded best.

 

[Whitigir]

A friend brought over a budget Furutech power cable (G-314ag or G-320ag) and on my preamp I pitted it against my $700 cable. The sound when from pinched and over focused to relaxed and wide open. When time permits I'd like to re-eval my power cable choices.

I recently played with power distribution. Most fancy strips add some degree of filtering and surge suppression. Plugging into the wall directly gives you a preview of what an expensive strip might sound like, because it's expensive to employ surge suppression that doesn't effect the sound. I sold my PS Audio P3 and an old blue circle thingee. My amps & pre are going into a splitter box (cullen) with zero filtering and protection. That just sounded best.

Agreed very much with this statements. I do like Furman IT15. It still affect the sound, but not as bad as others. So I am still using it. My power outlet is directly hooked to main panel, but only 2 of them. I will need to get someone to hook 4-6 of them in the future lol

 

[firegon]

Thanks for all the replies.
I've never had a power cable for more than 25$, so was just pure guessing for me. If You guys say it doesnt affect the sound too much ( as long as it's at least 14 gauge ), even better for me - no need to worry about significant additional costs Maybe I'll try the Pangea ones, just to have a clear conscience.

 

[Chopin75]

Probably should still have a descent power cable $100-$200. DIY cables from something like VH audio will help lower the cost to this range. I wouldn’t spend thoudands of dollars on it.

 

[FredA]

Probably should still have a descent power cable $100-$200. DIY cables from something like VH audio will help lower the cost to this range. I wouldn’t spend thoudands of dollars on it.

Quite frankly, many cables around 100$ on ebay are very good.

 

[Whitigir]

I would take Pangea AC9 every time

 

[barbas]

Does anyone have the V2 firmware versions for the R2R1? Thanks.

Edit: Kingwa already provide it.

 

[Chopin75]

My R2R7 has arrived from the Netherlands to UPS store here in PA, USA. I will need to collect it tomorrow. How exciting! Can’t wait to check it out! I was told it would be in default setting,and the new R7V2S firmware. Does it radiate much heat ? I want to see if it needs to be placed in well ventilated area?

 

[firegon]

Happy for You, this DAC is a blast!
That being said, give it a few hundred hours before passing a judgement. You've probably read it multiple times, but early on it has good and bad days.

It can get quite hot, but I've seen more thermally troublesome dacs I'm just using rubber feet to elevate it, not a necessity though .
One thing I don't recommend is putting an amp on top of it - even though I'm doing it myself, because I can't fit it anywhere else

 

[motberg]

Anyone using Pangea AC9 with 220V ?
I have a couple Supra .5M (3 x 2.5mm) and every time I try them, I short the apartment (China) master circuit-breakers .

 

[Wynnytsky]

Does it radiate much heat ?

It's the warmest thing in my rack, and easily draws more power (45w) than both my DC coupled monoblocks combined
The only DAC I've known to be hotter is an AMR that was too hot to keep your hand on.

After using it for 10mo it dulled the finish on my maple platform. Now I use brass footers and those soak up heat nicely, as well as allow more air to be drawn from beneath. Rubber/cork footers will iron out some of the dynamics (dulling/smoothing effect). If you don't have rack space for firm footers then I'd remove the rubber rings from the stock footer (I think that's what's there) and shim the 4th foot with junk-mail postcard to remove any rocking (do so when the unit is hot as it may twist from the heat).

Unless you have a tube preamp, I see 3 reasons the R2R7 should be awarded the top shelf. Heat, more room for footers, and the jumpers+firmwares. You'll be able to alternate between settings faster and make better judgment calls on each jumper setting if you don't have to extract it from the rack.

 

[DACLadder]

My R2R7 has arrived from the Netherlands to UPS store here in PA, USA. I will need to collect it tomorrow. How exciting! Can’t wait to check it out! I was told it would be in default setting,and the new R7V2S firmware. Does it radiate much heat ? I want to see if it needs to be placed in well ventilated area?

Congrats! It is ready to go. The R7 only draws 45 watts of power but gets warm after being left on. Don't block the ventilation slots on the top and yes wise not to have something below it adding to the heat. Also the unit is larger than most DACs.

 

[Chopin75]

Thanks for all the advice. I am listening now from CD source, rough listening, nothing is warmed up yet but it does sound quite smooth with great resolution & sound stage, no grain. Unfortunately mine without BNC, by mistake. I want BNC and AES but it is configured to AES + RCA. Is it possible to switch RCA to BNC easily?

 

[FredA]

Thanks for all the advice. I am listening now from CD source, rough listening, nothing is warmed up yet but it does sound quite smooth with great resolution & sound stage, no grain. Unfortunately mine without BNC, by mistake. I want BNC and AES but it is configured to AES + RCA. Is it possible to switch RCA to BNC easily?

If you can solder or have it soldered, yes. Normally just a direct swap.