[Tigraeng]

Guys, I never noticed it before but my Brooklyn DAC+ really runs hot. I think it's the hottest piece of gear I own.

Has anybody else noticed this?

Not noticed on mine. I do have it up on some small cones and nothing on top. However I do run an external LPS, I suspect if running off a power cable then you are using the built in PSU which might run hot?

Dave

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Not noticed on mine. I do have it up on some small cones and nothing on top. However I do run an external LPS, I suspect if running off a power cable then you are using the built in PSU which might run hot?

Dave

Thanks, yes the internal PSU would generate heat but I would have thought the output stage would generate more heat than the PSU. I run 0 dB out via XLR. Are you using the built in headamp?

 

[Tigraeng]

Thanks, yes the internal PSU would generate heat but I would have thought the output stage would generate more heat than the PSU. I run 0 dB out via XLR. Are you using the built in headamp?

Ahh, yes I only use the headamp, via the balanced Mytek cable.

Dave

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Ahh, yes I only use the headamp, via the balanced Mytek cable.

Dave

Thanks. So still looking for more replies

 

[alekc]

Guys, I never noticed it before but my Brooklyn DAC+ really runs hot. I think it's the hottest piece of gear I own.

Has anybody else noticed this?

@gimmeheadroom my Brooklyn Bridge can be warm after some time of use, but I would never call it hot, especially when comparing to equipment with tubes inside. It is warm enough not to stack Mytek AMP+ for example but still I would not call it hot. Running on stock cable and internal psu. For example ifi Pro iCan in Tube/Tube+ mode runs hotter in my case after few hours of use. Make sure it has enough space from above and sideways to dissipate heat. Mine has always been kept on open surfaces like desk or table.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

@gimmeheadroom my Brooklyn Bridge can be warm after some time of use, but I would never call it hot, especially when comparing to equipment with tubes inside. It is warm enough not to stack Mytek AMP+ for example but still I would not call it hot. Running on stock cable and internal psu. For example ifi Pro iCan in Tube/Tube+ mode runs hotter in my case after few hours of use. Make sure it has enough space from above and sideways to dissipate heat. Mine has always been kept on open surfaces like desk or table.

Thank you @alekc

I guess the Bridge has a larger case and probably the layout is not the same so I'm not sure the comparison helps.

I hope somebody with the DAC+ who drives external amps will chime in.

 

[alekc]

Thank you @alekc

I guess the Bridge has a larger case and probably the layout is not the same so I'm not sure the comparison helps.

I hope somebody with the DAC+ who drives external amps will chime in.

@gimmeheadroom I've seen DAC+ before I've bought Bridge and I would assume the case dimensions are exactly the same. The PCB layout is quite similar if I remember correctly - there is simply added streamer PCB on top but I could be wrong.

 

[jbua5150]

DAC+ and Bridge are the same size.
The Bridge has a “Network Standby” option that when enabled, keeps the Bridge quite warm, even when powered off.
But with normal use, my Bridge does run quite hot.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

@gimmeheadroom I've seen DAC+ before I've bought Bridge and I would assume the case dimensions are exactly the same. The PCB layout is quite similar if I remember correctly - there is simply added streamer PCB on top but I could be wrong.

DAC+ and Bridge are the same size.
The Bridge has a “Network Standby” option that when enabled, keeps the Bridge quite warm, even when powered off.
But with normal use, my Bridge does run quite hot.

Thank you, guys! I never saw the Bridge in person but whenever I saw pics or videos for some reason it looked twice the size of the DAC+

So at least @alekc and @jbua5150 have different experiences. I wonder what the reason for that could be.

I love my Brooklyn DAC+ it is such an amazing diagnostic tool. I hope it lasts and does not burn up.

 

[alekc]

Thank you, guys! I never saw the Bridge in person but whenever I saw pics or videos for some reason it looked twice the size of the DAC+

So at least @alekc and @jbua5150 have different experiences. I wonder what the reason for that could be.

I love my Brooklyn DAC+ it is such an amazing diagnostic tool. I hope it lasts and does not burn up.

@gimmeheadroom I see few possible causes of this situation:

1. The definition of warm and hot is quite flexible
2. Maybe we are using different voltages: mine is 220
3. Maybe we are using different firmware

But I bet reason no 1 is the most possible.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

@gimmeheadroom I see few possible causes of this situation:

1. The definition of warm and hot is quite flexible
2. Maybe we are using different voltages: mine is 220
3. Maybe we are using different firmware

But I bet reason no 1 is the most possible.

I am very sure you would not enjoy the hot control knob! It's clearly quite hot. And @jbua5150 considers that his unit runs quite hot.

So I'm still wondering about the difference. Although we are talking about 2 different devices at least you guys have different experiences.

I use mine only in line out mode at 0 dB to drive two amps via XLR and RCA, but only one amp is powered on at a time. It's under a glass monitor stand with what I would consider enough airspace on top and sides, and plenty on the back.

The top panel has that beautiful punched-out design so clearly it's designed to vent to the top. I guess maybe it's normal but it just seems odd that it runs hotter than the V280 I have next to it.

 

[jbua5150]

I am very sure you would not enjoy the hot control knob! It's clearly quite hot. And @jbua5150 considers that his unit runs quite hot.

So I'm still wondering about the difference. Although we are talking about 2 different devices at least you guys have different experiences.

I use mine only in line out mode at 0 dB to drive two amps via XLR and RCA, but only one amp is powered on at a time. It's under a glass monitor stand with what I would consider enough airspace on top and sides, and plenty on the back.

The top panel has that beautiful punched-out design so clearly it's designed to vent to the top. I guess maybe it's normal but it just seems odd that it runs hotter than the V280 I have next to it.

I'd like to clarify a bit as I may have used a poor choice of words. I tend to agree with @alekc here that my definition of quite hot, may not be the same as yours . I also only use mine as a DAC with XLR and RCA outputs to 2 amps (1 on at a time, but I run -6 on the Trim/Gain). The Brooklyn Bridge and the Chord Mojo run the warmest and both shocked me with their temps. I actually removed the battery from the Mojo as I only use it as a DAC. The Matrix Mini I-Pro 3 also warm. Every other DAC that has been in my home, are cool to the touch. That all being said...... I don't think my Bridge gets as hot as you are describing.

 

[gryffe]

I have the Brooklyn DAC/pre amp and was wondering if it was possible to use with a subwoofer? If so is it just a simple matter of running RCA analogue cables from the RCA out of the DAC/pre amp to the RCA ins on the subwoofer? And if this is correct are there any settings on the DAC/pre amp that need adjusted?

Out of interest does anybody use a sub with their Brooklyn and did you notice a big improvement?

The subwoofer is Cambridge Audio Minx X201

Thanks

 

[gryffe]

I've had the Brooklyn Amp + for a few weeks now and I have noticed at times there is slight distortion, or perhaps a sound similar to an over compressed CD when listening through speakers. This distortion is not there when using headphones so I am wondering if my speakers cant cope with the Brooklyn amp? Also I think it might be worse at higher volumes. My speakers are Bowers & Wilkins 603 floorstanders. I am useless at “sensitivity” and “ohms” etc so looking for some advice, thanks - also I dont understand why the spec for the Brooklyn amp mentions “dual mono”, is this because it’s a power amp whereas I am used to having integrated amps in the past which only talk about “watts per channel”?

Here are the specs for the power amp (which is partnered with the pre amp from the Mytek Brooklyn DAC)

**POWER RATINGS AT 1% THD:

• at 16 Ohm - dual mono 2 x 130 W
• at 8 Ohm - dual mono 2 x 250 W
• at 4 Ohm - dual mono 2 x 300 W
• at 2 Ohm - dual mono 2 x 400 W
• Peak - dual mono 2 x 1200 W
  **OUTPUT SWING: 70 Vp / 140 Vpp (unloaded)
  **SNR: >121 dB
  **FREQUENCY RESPONSE: -3dB: 10Hz - 30kHz
  **THD REGULAR USE: <0.01%
  **PROTECTION CIRCUITRY: Short circuit protection, DC protection, under voltage protection, temperature protection, overload protection
  **DAMPING FACTOR: >400
  **DC POWER ON TRIGGER: 12VDC mini jack
  **WORLDWIDE POWER SUPPLY: 100-240VAC 50/60 Hz
  **DIMENSIONS: WxDxH=8.5x9.5x1.74” = 216x241x44mm
  **WEIGHT: 6lbs, 3kg

Here are the specs for the Bowers & Wilkins 603’s

• Description: 3-way vented-box system
• Drive units: 1×ø25mm (1 in) aluminium dome HF
  1×ø150mm (6 in) Continuum cone FST mid
  2×ø165mm (6.5 in) Paper/Kevlar bass
• Frequency Response: 48Hz–28kHz ±3dB
• Sensitivity: 88.5dB spl (2.83V, 1m)
• Nominal impedance: 8Ω (minimum 3.0Ω)
• Rec amplifier power: 30W–200W

 

[gryffe]

Just had a thought about my post above Does it make any difference what type of power lead is being used with the amp? I bought the amp 2nd hand from a guy in the hifi industry and the guy said it didn't have a power lead but any UK kettle lead would do, so I just used a random spare one. Is this true that any kettle lead will do? If not and an inadequate power lead could be affecting performance could anyone advise which spec of power lead to use and I will buy one and see if it makes any difference.