[bui501-tech]

Ok.What layer of diaphragm cover did you use?Graphite?Nylon + phenol?

I used ACL Staticide 6500 spray. It’s advertised by the manufacturer as a permanent spray that’s good for plastics.

 

[zzhetanay]

Thanks. How much did you apply it?

 

[bui501-tech]

Thanks. How much did you apply it?

This works for me:
I spray a very quick, short burst of coating on the diaphragm, spread it gently but evenly with a lint-free cloth, let it dry for 2 or 3 hours, go back and very gently spread/buff the semi-dry coating to prevent “speckling”, and then finally let it dry for the rest of the 24 hour recommended drying time.

 

[zzhetanay]

Thanks.You cover the two sides?For electrostatic panels, this method?

 

[bui501-tech]

Thanks.You cover the two sides?For electrostatic panels, this method?

Oh, no—I remembered that in one of his early posts, chinsettawong had advised just coating one side of the diaphragm, so that’s what I do for my drivers.

 

[zzhetanay]

Thanks.Coating durable?

 

[100VoltTube]

Here's a cool idea: http://tubecad.com/2018/01/blog0407.htm

 

[mrspeakers]

Hey DIY folk, are you interested in our Stax Pro compatible amplifier plugs for your projects? We'd be happy to make them available if the answer is yes.

They're solid machined Teflon with machined OFC gold plated pins and a solid AL casing. Works best with round cables, though with some craftiness flat cables can transition to the hole...

 

[Jaab]

I would be interested but it will depend of the price!

 

[chinsettawong]

Some pictures would be nice.

 

[mrspeakers]

Price is TBD, as you can imagine this isn't a cheap high-volume part, so to keep the price attainable for the DIY we may only sell these direct to avoid excess markup.

 

[bui501-tech]

I'm making a new pair of headphones. This time I try to make the headphones with as less copper as possible - I etched out all the useless copper. This helps reduce the capacitance on the headphones and makes them easier to be driven by an amp on high frequencies. It's still a work in progress, but here are a few pictures:

Errr, Wachara - what are you using to hold the sandwhich of stator-spacer-spacer-stator together? I've just noticed just now that your earlier drivers do not use screws to hold the components together. I'm using nylon screws and nuts to hold the components together, and it works, but the screws and nuts require an extra 3mm of clearance on each side of the drivers, thus increasing the thickness of the earcups (which I do not like).

 

[chinsettawong]

Well, there are many ways to put the drivers together. In my early build, I don't use the nylon screws to hold the drivers together. That works fine too. Later on after I have seen how Sennheiser does it, I change my design. However, I don't use the nuts though. I simply use a bit thicker top plate and tap the holes on the plate so that I can just screw the nylon screws there.

 

[bui501-tech]

Well, there are many ways to put the drivers together. In my early build, I don't use the nylon screws to hold the drivers together. That works fine too. Later on after I have seen how Sennheiser does it, I change my design. However, I don't use the nuts though. I simply use a bit thicker top plate and tap the holes on the plate so that I can just screw the nylon screws there.

Oh, Wow! I never thought to tap the stators -- GREAT IDEA, Wachara! I'm going to give it a try.
-Vinh

 

[chinsettawong]

Well, actually it’s not the stator that I tap. My configuration is like this: top plate, dust cover, stator, spacer diaphragm, spacer, and stator. This top plate is actually the outer most ring that the whole set of driver is screwed fix into. I also attach the ear pad on the other side of this top plate.