My DIY electrostatic headphones

  1. edform
    Why not use a non-conductor? You can get Mylar/Melinex in thicker sheet and I think it will laser cut, although it would probably be cheaper to talk to a company that does click-cutting and have a steel-rule tool made. I'd be surprised if you couldn't find someone to make you the tool for less than 100$ and the production process is really cheap. My diaphragm area is quite big and I don't know whether 0.5mm will be OK, so I'm going this way for insulators and having them made in a thin grade which I can stack to determine a safe working clearance.

    Ed Form
  2. Azrael3000
    As promised we made a guide on how to build your electrostatic headphones without needing to read close to 200 pages of forum posts.
    You can find our very first version here: or read the pdf directly:

    This work is under a CC license, so everybody can copy, modify and redistribute this document (with some minor constraints). If you have comments on how to improve it feel free to let us know either on the dedicated forum thread: or on Github.

    janosch simon, soren_brix and statfi like this.
  3. chinsettawong
    Hi Arno,

    That's very well written document. Thanks for putting it together and sharing it with us. I'm sure this will help the beginners a lot.

    Wachara C.
  4. chinsettawong
    Your design looks nice. But if I were you, I would use FR4 for both stators and spacers. I don't see any advantage of using either stainless steel or aluminium. The FR4 of the right thickness isn't that difficult to source. Let me know if you really can't find them.
  5. inuponken
    Hi bui501-tech, thank you for your information.

    It was over half a year ago, they refused to sell it again… When I called them again, they accepted the order this time. ???
    I was planning to cut and use my 5m original STAX extension cable.
  6. inuponken
    Hi Chisettawong,

    I have to re-build the front plates to attach the ear pad and it took time to reorder new material.

    About the tension,
    This is my method that after repeating trial and error.
    Please take my method just for reference…:ghost:

    1. Add tension just enough to disappear large wrinkles on the 3um mylar film.
    I do not use weights, only added small clips as the previous photos.

    2. After the adhesive (contact cement) has dried, apply heat to the mylar with a 1875W hairdryer.
    Continue to heat until the small wrinkles are not come back after cooling.
    It is necessary to heat for quite a long time (total >10min.) otherwise wrinkles will come back again after cooling.
    While heating, the hair dryer becomes too hot and the thermostat turns off many times…

    I used the same method to my Omega clone, 2 set of JF clone and modified JF clone but they are very stable.
  7. chinsettawong
    Hi Inuponken,

    Wow, having to apply heat from the hair dryer for that long isn't fun. By the way, what spacer thickness are you using?

    I use an industrial heat gun for heat treatment if I need to. It's much hotter. You can't blow it on a single spot for more than a second or two. Otherwise, it'll burn through the diaphragm.
  8. inuponken

    0.5 mm.
    When the bias voltage becomes 380 V or more, the diaphragm sticks to the stator. I am adjusting the tension now.
    The first impression of listening at the bias voltage of 350 V is, there is more presence than my omega clone.
  9. inuponken
    IMG_9603.JPG IMG_9604.JPG
    spritzer, jgazal and chinsettawong like this.
  10. chinsettawong
    Very nice! I very much like you to try to stretch the diaphragms more plus up the bias voltage and see if you like the sound better.
  11. inuponken
    I gave up 0.5 mm… I tried strengthening the tension until the PCB bends, but still sticking to the stator at 450 - 500 V. I ordered 0.1 mm sheets to make shims and try to make it with 0.6 mm space. Probably I can increase the bias voltage to 600 V with the same tension.

    I’m listening with 0.8 mm spacers now and there is no problem even if the bias voltage is increased to 800 V.
    Wider spacing reduces efficiency but no problem with my DIY-T2 and KGSS Carbon.
    It is very wide range sound! I like it very much!!!
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2018
  12. chinsettawong
    Well, you just haven't found its sweet spot yet.

    I know it's not very easy, but it certainly achievable. :ksc75smile:

    Oh, by the way, the wood housing might bend a little because of the humidity. So when you screw the front baffle onto the wood, you don't want to screw it in too tight.
  13. Ulfar4
    I have some progress with the housing. I only need to add mesh grill and headband and screw it together.
    chinsettawong likes this.
  14. jgazal
    I am curious to know what is the difference of thickness between these stators... Any guess? :L3000:




  15. chinsettawong
    Very nice! How do you like the sound? What amp do you use to drive them? Are you using 0.5 mm spacers?

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