Well done. I would integrate the buttons more similar to how they’re designed in the Hugo M Scaler or Mojo 2.By a request i made a design change on the housing to match Dave's looks even more..
Since i drawed Dave after i designed the scaler i found out how it is used balls, cilinders en egg forms to mold Dave's appearance.
So i took my scaler's top part and removed the caving and button holes, and created a cilinder with ball shaped sides and flattened on the length side.
After playing with the size i came to this form:
I had to position it carefully to let the buttons stick through the flat side:
So subtracted from the top form got me the caving
The buttons have a cave detail too which i substracted using sinked positioned balls:
Now subtract the button cones themselves to create the holes
Now put the pieces together and my housing v2 is ready to be rendered to see how it looks.
Round chamfered corners instead of flat cornered:
Ofcourse lets see with Dave on top:
Housing v1 versus v2.. which one looks better?
A new CNC production can start lol
I will have two 6m SE line cables from this preamp to my monaural amps standing aside my speakers..
True.. thx for pointing i corrected it.
You just keep impressing!By another request i designed a addition for the receiver side of the optic link.
For my own usecase i have built the optic receivers inside Dave and this works perfectly, no change needed here.
But since i help others who want to create a link too ive noticed there's quite some hesitation about modifying a Dave.
There is naturaly always a risk of damaging it. further it will void Dave's warranty as it will leave traces of the modification if taken out.
Sure there is the Opto DX solution but i dont like to still having to use coax cables and also a external power supply or battery.
In my opinion its best to keep on the DAC's (and Scaler's) own groundplane and power feed.
This is why i came up with a optical 'snap on' unit which can be directly attached to Dave's dualdata BNC's without coax cables.
Also its possible to tap on Dave's 5v rail and bring it outside to the link attached without irreversible modifying Dave.
For the ones on external PSU's it can ofcourse been taken from the external 5v feed.
To snap directly on Dave's BNC's without adapters i went searching for PCB solderable male plugs
and found these quite sturdy ones:
I want to make the optic receiver unit as small as possible not to have a chunky load hanging on Dave so i figured to place these and the optic receivers on opposite sides of a small vertical standing PCB of only about 30x30mm. Also on this board i placed a standard 5.5mm DC barrel socket as well as the resistors and decouple caps as shown in my schematic in this thread.
Then it came to designing the casing, ofcourse in Choral style matching Dave with chamfered edges and made out of solid CNC'ed aluminium. i chose a 'ying/yang' way of making them out of two halves to assemble using two tapered M2 bolts which i chose to put on Dave's side. The male BNC's and optic ST barrels sticking through holes at both sides. Since i dont need nuts to mount the ST barrels i have the option to get metal barreled ones without thread (MT version).
Exploded it lookes like this inside, it took some puzzling to squeeze the components in a way the tracks wont collide.
Since most users put Dave in standby with the remote rather than make it net powerless, i figured to take out the back switch and replace it with a 5.5mm DC socket mounted in a small plate which i could 3D print. Inside i wire it to the SMPS molex connector using a adapter which can be plugged easily.
And finally pictures of the link receiver attached to Dave: I chose to make the link casing 1cm lower than Dave's surface so its less prominent in sight.
Attached to BNC's 1&2: the USB inlet keeps clear, but the AES is covered. The purpose is to be RF free, so no other inputs should be used anyway.
I would choose to connect it to BNC's 3&4 to be closer to the power feed, the toslinks are free accessible here.
It can be bought a ready made short DC barrel to DC barrel cable of 10 or 20cm length.
Underside of the casing is in line with Dave.
Something came to mind being one can accidently put in Mscaler's DC plug applying 15v to the link unit or Dave, so i reversed polarity of the DC socket (middle pin is ground) and a schottky diode in series to prevent damage this way, a current cant flow in reverse direction.
In Dave i put a 100ohm resistor in series with the voltage output which is neglible for the link's 100mA current draw but prevents a possible shortcut.
I'm thinking to design also a link casing for stock HMS on which the 15v power is linked through (two DC sockets) and using a voltage pot devider to make around 5v for TX. but thats perhaps a next chapter.
Happy listening all, keep enjoying blissful sound
Wouldn t that work with a TT2 too?By another request i designed a addition for the receiver side of the optic link.
For my own usecase i have built the optic receivers inside Dave and this works perfectly, no change needed here.
But since i help others who want to create a link too ive noticed there's quite some hesitation about modifying a Dave.
There is naturaly always a risk of damaging it. further it will void Dave's warranty as it will leave traces of the modification if taken out.
Sure there is the Opto DX solution but i dont like to still having to use coax cables and also a external power supply or battery.
In my opinion its best to keep on the DAC's (and Scaler's) own groundplane and power feed.
This is why i came up with a optical 'snap on' unit which can be directly attached to Dave's dualdata BNC's without coax cables.
Also its possible to tap on Dave's 5v rail and bring it outside to the link attached without irreversible modifying Dave.
For the ones on external PSU's it can ofcourse been taken from the external 5v feed.
To snap directly on Dave's BNC's without adapters i went searching for PCB solderable male plugs
and found these quite sturdy ones:
I want to make the optic receiver unit as small as possible not to have a chunky load hanging on Dave so i figured to place these and the optic receivers on opposite sides of a small vertical standing PCB of only about 30x30mm. Also on this board i placed a standard 5.5mm DC barrel socket as well as the resistors and decouple caps as shown in my schematic in this thread.
Then it came to designing the casing, ofcourse in Choral style matching Dave with chamfered edges and made out of solid CNC'ed aluminium. i chose a 'ying/yang' way of making them out of two halves to assemble using two tapered M2 bolts which i chose to put on Dave's side. The male BNC's and optic ST barrels sticking through holes at both sides. Since i dont need nuts to mount the ST barrels i have the option to get metal barreled ones without thread (MT version).
Exploded it lookes like this inside, it took some puzzling to squeeze the components in a way the tracks wont collide.
Since most users put Dave in standby with the remote rather than make it net powerless, i figured to take out the back switch and replace it with a 5.5mm DC socket mounted in a small plate which i could 3D print. Inside i wire it to the SMPS molex connector using a adapter which can be plugged easily.
And finally pictures of the link receiver attached to Dave: I chose to make the link casing 1cm lower than Dave's surface so its less prominent in sight.
Attached to BNC's 1&2: the USB inlet keeps clear, but the AES is covered. The purpose is to be RF free, so no other inputs should be used anyway.
I would choose to connect it to BNC's 3&4 to be closer to the power feed, the toslinks are free accessible here.
It can be bought a ready made short DC barrel to DC barrel cable of 10 or 20cm length.
Underside of the casing is in line with Dave.
Something came to mind being one can accidently put in Mscaler's DC plug applying 15v to the link unit or Dave, so i reversed polarity of the DC socket (middle pin is ground) and a schottky diode in series to prevent damage this way, a current cant flow in reverse direction.
In Dave i put a 100ohm resistor in series with the voltage output which is neglible for the link's 100mA current draw but prevents a possible shortcut.
I'm thinking to design also a link casing for stock HMS on which the 15v power is linked through (two DC sockets) and using a voltage pot devider to make around 5v for TX. but thats perhaps a next chapter.
Happy listening all, keep enjoying blissful sound
I ll check
By a request i made a design change on the housing to match Dave's looks even more..
Since i drawed Dave after i designed the scaler i found out how it is used balls, cilinders en egg forms to mold Dave's appearance.
So i took my scaler's top part and removed the caving and button holes, and created a cilinder with ball shaped sides and flattened on the length side.
After playing with the size i came to this form:
I had to position it carefully to let the buttons stick through the flat side:
So subtracted from the top form got me the caving
The buttons have a cave detail too which i substracted using sinked positioned balls:
Now subtract the button cones themselves to create the holes
Now put the pieces together and my housing v2 is ready to be rendered to see how it looks.
Round chamfered corners instead of flat cornered:
Ofcourse lets see with Dave on top:
Housing v1 versus v2.. which one looks better?
A new CNC production can start lol
