[jamato8]

The attenuator adds the extra bit of refinement and transparency and so do the caps. Hard to say but I guess a slight edge to the caps.

 

[WittyzTH]

Is that really hard to try to mod the amp?

I'm completely noobie for DIY, but this thread really drive me crazy of modding the WA6.

 

[danmagicman7]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WittyzTH /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is that really hard to try to mod the amp? I'm completely noobie for DIY, but this thread really drive me crazy of modding the WA6.

Most DIY mods just take patience and knowing what to connect to what.

If you're really uncomfortable with a soldering iron, try making a CMOY amp to get some practice on something cheap. Really the worse thing you can do (besides hooking something up wrong) is put too much solder on a joint and cause a crossjoint with something else.

Researching what you do before you do it and taking your time will ensure success. After you get the hang of it, the less research you need to do.

 

[WittyzTH]

Thanks for recommendation. I ever did only modding my headphone such as reterminating and recabling.

From what I read through this thread, it may possible to done some of mod myself. and I guess the WA6SE has more room to be modded. So it may easier for me to mod it.

 

[jantze]

Quote:

Originally Posted by WittyzTH /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is that really hard to try to mod the amp?

No if you have the equipment. You could allways borrow the needed tools.

 

[peanuthead]

What's a more significant upgrade in terms of overall sound quality for the WA6: Sophia Princess rectifier or PDPS upgrade?

Thanks.

 

[HeadphoneAddict]

Quote:

Originally Posted by peanuthead /img/forum/go_quote.gif What's a more significant upgrade in terms of overall sound quality for the WA6: Sophia Princess rectifier or PDPS upgrade? Thanks.

Hmmm... Probably the Sophia in my case. Before the Sophia (and after the PDPS) the WA6 was even better with RS-1 and HD-600 but still (1) had a narrower soundstage than Zana Deux and Melosslightly, (2) was still slightly sloppy with my re-cabled woodied D2000 and (3) it was still way too dark and muddy with Edition 9 to the point of being unusable. The Sophia made a big improvement in soundstage and refinement and tight control over the Denon and Edition 9 with good frequency balance.

 

[dannie01]

Since I spent few days to gone through all 56 pages of this thread and others about the WA6/ Max, WA6 SE/ Max. Got poisoned and finally order my WA6SE on 7 Jan with addition SP 274B and 2 pairs 6EW7 from Jack.

Also, I've bid the following in ebay within today,

Mullard GZ 30 Brown Base CV 2748 (NOS) x 1
RCA 5V4G (NOS) x 1
Sylvania 5U4GB (NOS) x 1

But I found it's really hard to find some good 6DE7 or 6EW7 through ebay, I would like to get some.

And I need help from experts here like Jamato8/ takezo and others. I 'm quite sure I'm skillful to use a solder iron but an idiot about tube amp. I saw Jack offers the Premium parts upgrade package for $450 (too much for me in the meanwhile) with the following, so I wondering to do the mod by myself,

Blackgate voltage filter caps, 150uf/350V
Blackgate bypass caps, 220uf/16V
Blackgate bypass caps, 22uf/350V
MILLS voltage filter resistor, 3.3K/12W
KIWAME load resistor, 56K/2W
KIWAME resistor, 1K/2W

My question is, all the above up-grade parts are already soldered in the WA6SE by other brand/s in same value (or, I just wait my WA6SE arrive and check ), I can just source the parts and replace it all is fine or they have different value in the modding?

BTW, I have a SENN HD650 and JVC HP-DX1000.

Thanks in advance for all of you.

Cheers,
Danny

 

[takezo]

hi danny,

you should wait to see what's inside your stock wa6SE.
the blackgates are verygood but not essential... i'd save the
money and just upgrade several areas like the bypass caps (220uf/16v),
bypass resistors and resistors between pins 2 and 6 with 0.5
watt carbon resistors. you can always change the values by
going up but don't go down, especially with the voltage of the
caps. (except the bypass where it should be fine to go to 6.3v
instead of 16v. i get only 2+v thru the bypass section)

for the power filter caps 150uf is insufficient imo... you may want
to go parallel to get near 300uf... but that'll just add to your
budget. jamato recommended panasonic as being very good filtering
caps. or i'd just ask jack what he'd recommend for you to use in place
of the blackgates. good luck.

*the 6de7 and 6ew7 and not in high demand, which is probably why
it's not seen on eebay alot... ask website tube dealers for them and
more often than not, they'll have hundreds in stock for $3 to $5 each...
i got most of my output tubes at vacuumtubes.net

 

[dannie01]

Quote:

Originally Posted by takezo /img/forum/go_quote.gif hi danny, you should wait to see what's inside your stock wa6SE. the blackgates are verygood but not essential... i'd save the money and just upgrade several areas like the bypass caps (220uf/16v), bypass resistors and resistors between pins 2 and 6 with 0.5 watt carbon resistors. you can always change the values by going up but don't go down, especially with the voltage of the caps. (except the bypass where it should be fine to go to 6.3v instead of 16v. i get only 2+v thru the bypass section) for the power filter caps 150uf is insufficient imo... you may want to go parallel to get near 300uf... but that'll just add to your budget. jamato recommended panasonic as being very good filtering caps. or i'd just ask jack what he'd recommend for you to use in place of the blackgates. good luck. *the 6de7 and 6ew7 and not in high demand, which is probably why it's not seen on eebay alot... ask website tube dealers for them and more often than not, they'll have hundreds in stock for $3 to $5 each... i got most of my output tubes at vacuumtubes.net

Hi takezo,

Thanks so much for your advice. I will wait until my unit arrive and let see what's inside before doing any mod. For the carbon resistors, which brand/s you recommend?

Cheers,
Danny

 

[sclamb]

A quick piece of advice please if anyone would be so kind.

I have been speaking to Jack because the driver tube socket in the right channel on my WA6SE is not holding the tube tightly (it wiggles quite freely whereas the left socket is very firm and does not allow the tube to wiggle) and I am getting some crackling sounds and tube rush sounds every now and then. The sounds go if I wiggle the tube slightly.

Jack has suggested that I use a needle and close up the springs inside the tube socket, and I sent him an email as I was concerned about getting an electric shock due to residual power left in the amp after unplugging it from the mains. I asked Jack how to drain the amp and he suggested the following:

"If you wish to “drain” the remaining current, play music then switch off the amp until music is gone. You don’t need to open the amp, just do that from the outside (the video is for demonstration purpose)"

The video refers to one Jack sent me showing how the close up the springs in the socket.

Although I am sure Jack is correct, I would like to get more opinions from the experts here before I stick a needle into the socket and risk getting what could be a fatal shock. Will Jack's suggested way drain all the current and make the sockets safe? Is there any way of testing to ensure that all the current is drained from the amp and sockets? Is this sort of tool useful/necessary to test things:

http://www.pat-services.co.uk/voltag...tester-674.htm

Thanks.

Simon

 

[xenithon]

Brief question on behalf of a friend: looking at the stock WA6, with one (trying for two but may need to limit it to one) of the following:
- PDPS mod
- V Cap input coupling cap upgrade
- Sophia 274B rectifier

Which do you think would be the better option, specifically for overall performance improvement and flexibility?

 

[takezo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sclamb /img/forum/go_quote.gif ...Although I am sure Jack is correct, I would like to get more opinions from the experts here before I stick a needle into the socket and risk getting what could be a fatal shock. Will Jack's suggested way drain all the current and make the sockets safe? Is there any way of testing to ensure that all the current is drained from the amp and sockets? Is this sort of tool useful/necessary to test things...

yes, it's a very safe way to make sure all the caps are drained. if you're still
unsure, leave the amp off for several hours, use an electrically insulated glove
or take it in to a specialist. one piece of advise: try not to twist and turn the
tubes excessively when pulling them out of the socket. this is why the socket
becomes loose. it's difficult, but try to pull the tube straight out with minimal
twisting and gyrating.

 

[sclamb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by takezo /img/forum/go_quote.gif yes, it's a very safe way to make sure all the caps are drained. if you're still unsure, leave the amp off for several hours, use an electrically insulated glove or take it in to a specialist. one piece of advise: try not to twist and turn the tubes excessively when pulling them out of the socket. this is why the socket becomes loose. it's difficult, but try to pull the tube straight out with minimal twisting and gyrating.

Thanks! I think twisting the tube a bit is what may have caused this, although the right channel socket was always looser than the left one.

What does leaving the amp off for a few hours do after draining the current? Should I leave the phones connected or just leave it to sit? I suppose using something plastic or wooden (such as a toothpick) rather than something metallic would avoid shocks too.

Simon

 

[takezo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sclamb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks! I think twisting the tube a bit is what may have caused this, although the right channel socket was always looser than the left one. What does leaving the amp off for a few hours do after draining the current? Should I leave the phones connected or just leave it to sit? I suppose using something plastic or wooden (such as a toothpick) rather than something metallic would avoid shocks too. Simon

leaving it off will drain any residual current left in the capacitors. the longer
you leave the amp off, the safer it is to work on it. just unplug the power cord
and disconnect everything from the amp.