[Stitch]

Hmm feel kinda stupid now... Didnt check that, only the 12V 1,5A part o0

 

[proid]

So Muse Dac die only by plugging it in wrong adapter and leave it play for long time without cool down? 
Will this this cheap DC 9v 1000mA adapter work well? It's only 5$ but i think the original 12V adapter of Muse Dac is around this price too.

 

[]eep]

Wel een goeie deal... maar niet zo'n slimme actie

I tried an A/C 9V too by accident. Fortunate for me the first thing I do is open it up and start modding. So I had my finger on the LM... to see the effect of 9V and noticed it getting really hot.
That's called Murphys law: if you don't check things that can go wong eventually will go wrong.

So Proids: check if your adapter is D/C. It looks like it is an A/C adapter. 9V D/C 1A is ok.

 

[fumbles]

Hi all I found this thread when I was looking for a cheap and good DAC for my PC here. After reading through the first and last few pages I went ahead and ordered one of these ones. I'm just a little concerned about the overheating. Will this happen even in a stock config? I'm not going to be doing any modding. So is it still recommended to run it on 9v DC if possible? I have an old brick of a DC adapter here that can put out 1.5v to 12v @ 1200mA. Would that run it safely? I really wouldn't want this DAC to burn out on me.
 
While I'm waiting for it to arrive I tried using my old Sony MZ-R50 minidisc recorder as a makeshift DAC. I have to engage recording mode to get the sound to pass through it, but I do so by holding down the pause button before hitting record. Would this cause any unneccesary strain on the recording head even if it's paused? There's no sound coming from inside when paused so I'm not sure if the recording mechanism is fully activated until I unpause it. I just don't want to wear out my MD recorder.

 

[]eep]

Hi fumbles, and wellcome.

If you really need to be sure, take a multimeter and measure the DC output. Anything <10.5V will be fine (checked on a Teradak PS, ran cool).

About the MD. If you set it on pause the disc is turning and standby for recording. IIRC the minidisc was magneto-optical. So no touching parts to wear out. But if it's your baby, treat it as such.

I allso have a Sharp portable MD, but I haven't used it in > 10y. It still works, only the battery is dead. It was one hell of a portable solution back then. Now it's only nostalgia; I only (ab)use my phone for portable use (yeah, you can slap me :rolleyes: ).

 

[Chefano]

Just finished the first phase of mods.

 So far so good! Its still working 

A pic of the modded muse

 

[viatraco]

Caps looks wonderful but analog IC looks ... much less wonderful )

 

[proid]

Quote:

Just finished the first phase of mods.

 So far so good! Its still working 

A pic of the modded muse

 
Where did you get that huge capacitor :O
 

 

[Chefano]

Quote:

Caps looks wonderful but analog IC looks ... much less wonderful )

 
Thanks, gonna post more pictures as soon as get back home.

 
 


Quote:

 
Where did you get that huge capacitor :O
 

Do you mean the output caps? If yes, those are PIO russian caps (OKBG-MH 1uF/600V). Im addicted to the sound they produce

PS: They came from ebay.
 
 

 

[proid]

Quote:

 
Thanks, gonna post more pictures as soon as get back home.

 
 


Do you mean the output caps? If yes, those are PIO russian caps (OKBG-MH 1uF/600V). Im addicted to the sound they produce

PS: They came from ebay.
 
 

With 1uf, does it have roll off high?

 

[ETAHL]

Nice work Chefano. Those are some monster caps.

  Looks like you modded those caps with a DAC.

 
Quote:

Do you mean the output caps? If yes, those are PIO russian caps (OKBG-MH 1uF/600V). Im addicted to the sound they produce

PS: They came from ebay.
 

 
Give some Russian K73-16 PETP a try. They are relatively compact, inexpensive, and they sound great.

 

 

 

[Chefano]

 
Quote:

With 1uf, does it have roll off high?

 
Hey Proid, to my ears the bass is deep and tight, no roll off at all. Using some calc, the frequency corner is 3.38Hz. Gonna mesure it take the proof. 

 

[Sapientiam]

Hi Guys! - new here so please don't flame me out, at least for my very first post...

 
I just got a Muse dac and have been modding it like crazy. If anyone's interested in the mods, I'll share them in due course.
 
Anyway the point of this post is - I may have found the reason so many Muse minis are dying prematurely. Mine has a 5V
regulator fitted where it should have a 3.3 volt one. That's in the power supply to the DIR9001 which does not like to get
more than 3.6V. When I removed the offending 5V regulator (right next to the input selector switch) the silk screen underneath
does indeed say it needs to be 3.3V. I have fitted an LM317L (220 / 330R) to give 3.1V and all is fine.
 
Bottom line is - if you have one of these its worth checking the markings on your AMS1117 reg and if it says 5.0 switch off
immediately!

 

[ETAHL]

 
Quote:

Hi Guys! - new here so please don't flame me out, at least for my very first post...

 
I just got a Muse dac and have been modding it like crazy. If anyone's interested in the mods, I'll share them in due course.
 
Anyway the point of this post is - I may have found the reason so many Muse minis are dying prematurely. Mine has a 5V
regulator fitted where it should have a 3.3 volt one. That's in the power supply to the DIR9001 which does not like to get
more than 3.6V. When I removed the offending 5V regulator (right next to the input selector switch) the silk screen underneath
does indeed say it needs to be 3.3V. I have fitted an LM317L (220 / 330R) to give 3.1V and all is fine.
 
Bottom line is - if you have one of these its worth checking the markings on your AMS1117 reg and if it says 5.0 switch off
immediately!

 
That is poor QC on Muse's part.

  My DAC has the AMS1117, 3.3V.
 
 

 

[ptempel]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sapientiam /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
I just got a Muse dac and have been modding it like crazy. If anyone's interested in the mods, I'll share them in due course.
 
Anyway the point of this post is - I may have found the reason so many Muse minis are dying prematurely. Mine has a 5V
regulator fitted where it should have a 3.3 volt one. That's in the power supply to the DIR9001 which does not like to get
more than 3.6V. When I removed the offending 5V regulator (right next to the input selector switch) the silk screen underneath
does indeed say it needs to be 3.3V. I have fitted an LM317L (220 / 330R) to give 3.1V and all is fine.
 
Bottom line is - if you have one of these its worth checking the markings on your AMS1117 reg and if it says 5.0 switch off
immediately!

Good catch!  I checked my dac and I also have the AMS1117 5.0.  I ordered the 3.3 version today.  Am still waiting for a Teralink X2 USB to SPDIF converter.  Once that and the 3.3v regulator come in will fire up the DAC.  I measured all the resistors and think R2 is bad.  Anyone know the value for this one?  I measured 1 Mohm which I think means that its hosed.