This is the answer I got from LTA when I asked the same question. The only reason for matching with these amps is to keep good L/R channel balance if you do not have a way to adjust balance via dual volume controls or a balance pot.
They said that even the power tubes do not need to be matched.
Having said that having tubes come as a balanced set never hurts.
This is the answer I got from LTA when I asked the same question. The only reason for matching with these amps is to keep good L/R channel balance if you do not have a way to adjust balance via dual volume controls or a balance pot.
They said that even the power tubes do not need to be matched.
Having said that having tubes come as a balanced set never hurts.
That's right. You get tubes enough different and one could be slightly louder than the other. That would be more like tubes out of spec but having fairly well matched tubes never hurts but no reason to pay for really close matching. Also as tubes ages, their specs change. If I question what is going on I can check my tubes as I have a few very good calibrated tube testers so I can match my own tubes but I don't have anyway to do a curve trace but again, tubes change so I am fine with checking them on my Hickok 439C.
OK, good to know. I just briefly rummaged through my tube stash and found a couple of pairs of matched JAN Philips 5691's, an old NOS GE 6sn7, and old Sovtek 6sn7gt. I also have literally dozens of various old 12aX7 triodes, but I think those will be too high gain for a hi-fi set up. I have quite a few old KT66 and EL34 tubes, but that won't help me here!
Really stupid question. I got some tubes to roll (Sylvania 6SN7 and Gold Lion 12AT7) but I can't get an allen wrench to open the cover. I sued metric and american sizes and 3 mm and 1/8th inches are too big, 2 mm and 3/32 are too small. What sizes have people used to open up the cover?
Really stupid question. I got some tubes to roll (Sylvania 6SN7 and Gold Lion 12AT7) but I can't get an allen wrench to open the cover. I sued metric and american sizes and 3 mm and 1/8th inches are too big, 2 mm and 3/32 are too small. What sizes have people used to open up the cover?
Really stupid question. I got some tubes to roll (Sylvania 6SN7 and Gold Lion 12AT7) but I can't get an allen wrench to open the cover. I sued metric and american sizes and 3 mm and 1/8th inches are too big, 2 mm and 3/32 are too small. What sizes have people used to open up the cover?
Member of the Trade: Linear Tube Audio / Urban HiFi
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If anyone can't be bothered to get the right hex wrench if you don't already have one, we're happy to send an L-key your way. I will say that a T-handle or a screwdriver style like the one linked at Amazon is a much more comfortable method. Just drop us an email.
There is a definite improvement going from the LPS TO THE LPS+. For those of you who aren't aware, LTA modified the original LPS by changing the 12-volt regulator to a custom 12-volt regulator they had specially made and it is designated as the LPS+. I had my original LPS converted to the LPS+ a couple of months ago and heard an immediate improvement in clarity with a blacker background. You have to send your LPS to LTA and the charge is $80 including return shipping to you. I'm not sure if all LPS's are now the + model; LTA will have to answer that question. It is a very worthwhile upgrade in my opinion and I would think gets you closer to the much more expensive power supplies that other manufacturers are selling.
There might not be many of us who had the MZ2 & LPS and also the MZ2-S (w/ LPS+). I don't want to make big statements because I've changed DACs. We're also talking about 8 months time gap between my MZ2 and now MZ2+. Maybe it's the change in tubes and/or LPS improvements. With that said, the presentation of the MZ2-S appears to me to have more body to the sound. This is not to say the MZ2 was lacking anything, but when I had one I often reached for my Liquid Carbon when using the HD800 or Grados. No biggie, those are bass-lite cans and there is a reason why many of us have more than one amp. Now with the MZ2-S, I can reach for the HD800/Grados and not even think I might need a bit more punch from the Liquid Carbon. Bass-lite headphones are a pleasure on the MZ2-S. Again, MZ2 was far from terrible with bass-lite headphones and tube rolling could really help as well with those bass-lite cans. On the level of stock form and un-modded, I believe the improvements are there in the MZ2-S. Definitely worth the extra $150, IMHO.
Where are all of those MassDroppers enjoying their MZ2-S?
I'm finding the Tung Sol 6SN7GTB a little harsh. I think the Illuminati is exposing these tubes. I'm using a 1950s 18ECC which is like the 7062.
I've ordered the 6N8S from Ben. This meant to be very neutral. I wanted to also try a warmer, more romantic 6SN7 tube and was looking at the RCA Red Base 5962 but looking through this thread, it doesn't seem too popular with the Micro. Has anyone tried it with the Illuminati or can recommend another warmer tube which works well with the Micro?
Did you try these with the Illuminati or did you damage them before you got it?
This thread (http://www.head-fi.org/t/117677/the-reference-6sn7-thread) states:
ECC31, 32, 33, 34 - Popular MISconception: these are NOT equivalent to 6SN7. Especially the ECC32/CV181 - close, but the 50% higher current draw will probably fry some transformers. Grid voltage, gain and transconductance are all different for these tubes. Ask your amp manufacturer first before substituting these in.
Did you make sure that it's okay to use the ECC33 in the Micro Zotl? Price is quite steep for these at around $300 for a pair.
I've got the 6N8S hopefully coming tomorrow from Mojo Audio. These have been highly recommended by Ben.
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