Mesh modding sr60i
May 24, 2010 at 9:13 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 11

thefallenangelx

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Hi evryone!
Just got a pair of sr60i and id like to get rid of the plastic rear mesh grid and put on a metallic one i found!
Actually i read somewhere that new grado sr60i are "impossible to open up with the "hair dryer way" because of a super glue!
Is it true?
Can anyone please explain me how to open up them so to fit the new metallic grid?
 
Thank you
 
May 24, 2010 at 11:41 AM Post #2 of 11


Quote:
Actually i read somewhere that new grado sr60i are "impossible to open up with the "hair dryer way" because of a super glue!
Is it true?

No, not true.  Use a hair dryer for a couple of minutes high heat, low air (if you have that setting), moving the dryer slowly around the joint where the grill front (that faces your ears) goes into the larger cup.  After a minute or 2 try twisting the grill front and it will begin to slide around and slide off.
 
Re-heat the glue some when you are ready to put the grill front back into the cup.
 
 
May 24, 2010 at 1:27 PM Post #3 of 11


Quote:
No, not true.  Use a hair dryer for a couple of minutes high heat, low air (if you have that setting), moving the dryer slowly around the joint where the grill front (that faces your ears) goes into the larger cup.  After a minute or 2 try twisting the grill front and it will begin to slide around and slide off.
 
Re-heat the glue some when you are ready to put the grill front back into the cup.
 

Thank you for the info
 
So, i should open the grado earcups with your method or the one listed here: http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=grado_prj.htm and the i can remove the plastic grill, right?
Or can i remove the grid without opening the earcups (but it sounds like a stupid question...)?
 
May 24, 2010 at 4:47 PM Post #4 of 11
I just did the same mod of a pair of 6 months old SR60i and it was quite an effort to remove the grid. It's glued with a plastic glue (the type used for airplane models etc) that melts both the grid and the cup together. Heat or solvents won't do, you have to use a knife, sharp screwdriver or such tool and scrape the plastic remnants off.
 
All you need is patience - once done the headphones will look lovely with the new grid. I also strongly suggest damping cups and magnet with dynamat or similar, and a a thin layer of felt on the inside surfaces will calm down treble reflexes.
 
May 24, 2010 at 4:53 PM Post #5 of 11

sounds like a bit of interesting head phone sugary  
popcorn.gif

Quote:
No, not true.  Use a hair dryer for a couple of minutes high heat, low air (if you have that setting), moving the dryer slowly around the joint where the grill front (that faces your ears) goes into the larger cup.  After a minute or 2 try twisting the grill front and it will begin to slide around and slide off.
 
Re-heat the glue some when you are ready to put the grill front back into the cup.
 



 
May 24, 2010 at 6:24 PM Post #6 of 11

sugary??
 
 I guess that would be "surgery", LOL!  Anyway, I think I might have used a spoon with the blow dryer to open my MS-1 several months ago.  Took about 10 minutes in all, so as mentioned be patient, work slowly and wait until you feel it moving before you start forcing anything.  It's not that hard.
 
May 29, 2010 at 7:41 AM Post #9 of 11
I wanted to do the screen/felt damping mods on my old SR60i, butI couldn't get the cups apart using the heating methods mentioned above, so I figured Id just pull the buttons off and call it a day.  However, when I pulled the button off, part of the plastic screen on one of the ear cups came off too.  So then I was forced to follow through with my original plan.  I basically just pulled out the screens, and took a really small screwdriver and scraped the glue off the inside of the cup where the two sides of the cup meet.  This weakened the glue enough for me to pull the cups apart.  In all this probably isn't the best way to do this, but I couldn't get them open using the hairdryer method.
 
Here's a pic of the felt/dynomat mod from another thread..
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/183338/grado-driver-mod/15
 
There's another thread where someone used felt and lined the cups with the felt which is what I did also.
 
Jun 3, 2010 at 8:04 AM Post #10 of 11
thank you!!did it!!
now they looks nicer!
did the dynamat and reverse quarter modded hd414 too on my alessandro MS1i!^^
oh...can anyone tell me whats the 32 written on the transducer?is it the impedance?
Oh...and...does someone knows if the driver of alessandro ms1i are different from grado sr60i?
Thank you all!
 
Jun 6, 2010 at 11:32 AM Post #11 of 11
The 32 on the drivers indeed denotes the impedance, as for the drivers in a 60 and ms1, they are definitely different! They sound different, whilst the rest of the can, (cups, cable, etc) remain the same. It is possible that they are the same when they leave the factory, but are treated/ coated differently to give them their own sound signature, but I don't know that for sure. Some claim the MS1 drivers are more similar to the 80/ 125, but I'm just repeating what I've read here on head-fi and again don't know for sure.
 

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