[darthmaus]

great! thanks for the reply. looking forward to getting an A1 for myself

 

[s0126471]

am I right in saying that if you have a D1 + A1 combination, you plug the 'tube pre-amp out' of the D1 onto 'analog in' on the A1.  Or would plugging it in 'analog out' on the D1 be enough?

 

[_Spanky_]

Quote:

am I right in saying that if you have a D1 + A1 combination, you plug the 'tube pre-amp out' of the D1 onto 'analog in' on the A1.  Or would plugging it in 'analog out' on the D1 be enough?

Pure personal preference. Using the tube, it gives you more options to play with and flavor the music to your liking.

 

[s0126471]

I asked because I have a D1 and a standalone tube pre-amplifier (not the A1).  I was thinking of getting the A1, as I have desktop speakers (Tannoy F1 custom).  I was not sure if D1 + A1 + tube amp would be too over-the-top for my HD650 and AKG 702 - a 'double tube amplification' if you get what I mean.

 

[_Spanky_]

Quote:

I asked because I have a D1 and a standalone tube pre-amplifier (not the A1).  I was thinking of getting the A1, as I have desktop speakers (Tannoy F1 custom).  I was not sure if D1 + A1 + tube amp would be too over-the-top for my HD650 and AKG 702 - a 'double tube amplification' if you get what I mean.

Wouldn't that be triple tube? I don't know enough about circuits to say if there might be issues with running audio through 3 tube stages. Ryan had the following to say about using the D1's tube output into the A1:
 
 
Quote:

Please note it is recommended that you use solid state output from the D1 since the A1 already has tube pre-amp stage. Two tube pre-amp stage will make the sound too slow, and maybe the reason that you have had the hum on 2 o'clock position.

 
I notice no ill effects and actually really enjoy the sound signature of the D1 w/stock Chinese tube & the A1 with Tung-Sol's. What I would recommend to you, if you really want the A1, is to sell your current tube amp (or find another use for it) instead of adding it to the Maverick Audio twins.

 

[Ultrainferno]

Usable tubes should be:
 
EF95 = 6AK5 = 6j1p = 6069 = 6F32V = 6F32 = 5654 = 6ZH1P = M8100= 403A [=408a {heads up, higher heater voltages}]

 

[_Spanky_]

Thanks Ultrainferno I have been planning on updating this thread for a while, I have several changes to make.

 

[_Spanky_]

v0.8 - Fixed Head-Fi update bugs and added info about wire gauge size. 

 

[_Spanky_]

Added a little info about my yet-unfinished mod. Check it out. New and better versions of instructions will be coming soon.

 

[ninjikiran]

If you don't want to drain it I would say leave the thing unplugged for at least 2 days and even then you are still risking it.  Much like the warnings on a computer power supply considering its made to power speakers.  Or you can ground yourself and wear some rubber gloves.  A 220v shock could easily send you flying(probably won't kill you unless it gets your heart).
 
Still if you don't know what your doing your better off with an unmodified A1, than a half modded A1 and a funeral.  Or you can take it to a electronics shop, pay a fee and tell them what needs to be done.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit

 

[_Spanky_]

v0.9 - Added tutorial for Spanky's Mod.
 
*EDIT*
ninjikiran, it's not that I don't want to drain it but it's kind of difficult inside the case and I don't have a large resistor to do it. I read that you actually don't want to ground yourself because that allows the current to pass through you. Insulated tools and rubber gloves do help

 Here's what the spark did to the resistor:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/website/audio/mav_a1/mod/DSC08800.JPG
 
All is well and working now

Resistor still measures good and within tolerances.

 

[s0126471]

After I got my A1 I was surprised on its simplicity inside the box.  Theres not much you can do to mod it unless you want to replace resisters (other than tube rolling).  The D1 is more flexible when it comes to modifications.
 
Although its nice to see Spanky mod an A1

 
The only quirk/issue I have with the A1 and D1 is one phono input - both would be excellent with one more.  The A1 does have space at the back if you shift things around (the D1 doesn't) to add a pair of phono input terminals.

 

[marcuocjd]

/img/forum/go_quote.gif


Looking forward to comparisons in quality between the D1 and the A1 in terms of headphone amplification. Not so much the differences in coloration but if it is in fact a real upward gradation.

Nice writing, Thanks for the sharing.

 

[ninjikiran]

Huh?
Quote:

Quote:

/img/forum/go_quote.gif

 
Looking forward to comparisons in quality between the D1 and the A1 in terms of headphone amplification. Not so much the differences in coloration but if it is in fact a real upward gradation.

Nice writing, Thanks for the sharing.

 

[attenuated 3db]

Quote:

Huh?

 
I chuckled at your "Huh?"   because I couldn't tell what the other poster was quoting from, when it was written, or by whom, since you've never owned a Maverick A1.  
 
FWIW, from someone who owns both a Maverick D1 (stock and with the most popular op-amp substiutions) and an A1, the headphone output of the A1 is vastly better than that of the D1.  Of course, that's with the D1 supplying the signal to the A1, but still, I would never plug my 650s into the D1's headphone jack as long as the A1 sits beside it.  I finally hooked up my Insignia bookshelf speakers to the A1 to see how it drives speakers, and had some issues with the SQ, but I think that speakers need as much break-in time as headphones, and placement and room acoustical factors are critical, whereas with headphones they are non-existent.