[bretemm]

Ok,
Well so far I've used it only connected to my Apple TV optical audio,
The Schiit amp and dac are very small and I bought them 1-2yeara before the Marantz,
So far using Schiit it really helped the quality of my music as more "even" and more "space",
So, other then taping off, is there any other way to use both the Schiit amp+dac together?
I could use the second video out to possibly bluray? But So far I havnt seen a marantz bluray that has a optical audio out,
Thank you for your help

The problem is that all of those sources are usually hooked up HDMI through your Marantz and are being processed by it's D/A converters, so if you go out of the analog tape out and only hook the Schiit amp up you'd be okay as long as you only listen to "Stereo" mode on the Marantz when using headphones. 

If you want to use the Schiit DAC also you are screwed because the SR5009 has no digital out that isn't an HDMI

So....Whoever sold you this combo didn't so a very good job at system design for you.

 

[jmsaxon69]

Ok,
Well so far I've used it only connected to my Apple TV optical audio,
The Schiit amp and dac are very small and I bought them 1-2yeara before the Marantz,
So far using Schiit it really helped the quality of my music as more "even" and more "space",
So, other then taping off, is there any other way to use both the Schiit amp+dac together?
I could use the second video out to possibly bluray? But So far I havnt seen a marantz bluray that has a optical audio out,
Thank you for your help
 

Maybe hook everything up to your TV HDMI and then use the optical out of your TV to feed the Schiit stack and bypass the Marantz all together?

 

[bretemm]

Well, but then I won't be able to have CDs, radio or Apple TV all hooked up,
Are there any bluray players that you would recommend to use with "zone 2" on the Marantz? Thanks!

Maybe hook everything up to your TV HDMI and then use the optical out of your TV to feed the Schiit stack and bypass the Marantz all together?

 

[estreeter]

 
Brand new unit and it clicks every time it is locking onto a different bit rate.  Normal stuff, that means it is decoding "bit perfect" like a Schiit Audio DAC does.  Not audible through the headphones at all, just the unit itself has a relay click.

 
Yup - both my PM6005 and SA-14S1 have a soft click when the bit rate changes - it has never bothered me. 

 

[Dark Ayla]

I am thinking to get the Marantz DAC 1 but I scared of the humming, DAC lock noise and rolled off sound. We're these issues resolved? Do u think this DAC/amp is a good match for the LCD3.

 

[Alou]

Looks quite well built.
Does anybody know the details for the USB connection (Synchronous/Asynchronous) ?
Is it USB 1 or 2 and what drivers does it require in case its 2 or higher.
 
 

I am thinking to get the Marantz DAC 1 but I scared of the humming, DAC lock noise and rolled off sound. We're these issues resolved? Do u think this DAC/amp is a good match for the LCD3.

Is this true ?I am surprised for a a company with such quality as Marantz.

 

[estreeter]

I am thinking to get the Marantz DAC 1 but I scared of the humming, DAC lock noise and rolled off sound. We're these issues resolved? Do u think this DAC/amp is a good match for the LCD3.

 
If you are genuinely terrified of the prospect of relays clicking when the bitrate changes - and for me its a non-issue anyway - segregate your high-res music from Redbook via playlists. As noted earlier, Marantz are a long way from being the only DACs where the relays are audible. As for 'rolled off sound', I dont know how anyone can put your mind at ease on this via a forum - you need to hear the gear for yourself. Is there no online retailer where you can return the DAC1 within the first month if you arent happy with it ? 

 

[GMaxx]

Hi Guys, here's something interesting. I saw that a bunch of people mentioned that this unit runs hot. I brought mine in Nov 2014. My unit does not run hot. You can leave it on for hours playing Spotify or a movie without being hot to the touch. I recently picked up a new unit to compare.
I work on my pc for hours on end and the old unit's relay would click on and off all the time within seconds of each other when working in a word or excel doc, surfing the web, reading emails or doing almost anything on my pc. The new unit does not click on and off as much and the clicking noise is noticeably lower. It mostly just clicks now when I run audio related programs. However, the new unit runs really hot so much that I see what everyone was talking about. It is definitely now hot to the touch. I don't know enough about the workings of the DAC or how the relay is implemented but could it be that since the new DAC's relay doesn't click off as much this is what is causing the heat?
 
With that said I'm of the mind set that a cooler running DAC is better. Unless Marantz now implemented something different in the newer units. What do you guys think?
 
Thanks!

 

[2leftears]

Hi Guys, here's something interesting. I saw that a bunch of people mentioned that this unit runs hot. I brought mine in Nov 2014. My unit does not run hot. You can leave it on for hours playing Spotify or a movie without being hot to the touch. I recently picked up a new unit to compare.
I work on my pc for hours on end and the old unit's relay would click on and off all the time within seconds of each other when working in a word or excel doc, surfing the web, reading emails or doing almost anything on my pc. The new unit does not click on and off as much and the clicking noise is noticeably lower. It mostly just clicks now when I run audio related programs. However, the new unit runs really hot so much that I see what everyone was talking about. It is definitely now hot to the touch. I don't know enough about the workings of the DAC or how the relay is implemented but could it be that since the new DAC's relay doesn't click off as much this is what is causing the heat?

With that said I'm of the mind set that a cooler running DAC is better. Unless Marantz now implemented something different in the newer units. What do you guys think?

Thanks!

Could be many things, but I still have my suspicions as to whether the amp section may have a stability issue on some units. RF radiation can drive susceptible electronics into high frequency instability. An amp with HF instability could potentially run very hot whilst still sounding fine...

Do you have any particularly strong WiFi routers nearby for example?

And is it possible to locate where the heat is generated? For example if the unit is clearly hotter to the touch at the front of the top cover this would indicate the headphone amp is generating the heat, whereas if it is more towards the rear it would be the logic board/DAC section.

I doubt the heat has anything to do with the muting relays though...

 

[jmsaxon69]

In a cabinet it runs hot , on my open rack it doesn't really. Not sure why people freak out about equipment dissipating heat?

 

[GMaxx]

Could be many things, but I still have my suspicions as to whether the amp section may have a stability issue on some units. RF radiation can drive susceptible electronics into high frequency instability. An amp with HF instability could potentially run very hot whilst still sounding fine...

Do you have any particularly strong WiFi routers nearby for example?

And is it possible to locate where the heat is generated? For example if the unit is clearly hotter to the touch at the front of the top cover this would indicate the headphone amp is generating the heat, whereas if it is more towards the rear it would be the logic board/DAC section.

I doubt the heat has anything to do with the muting relays though...

My unit is about 4 feet or so away from my router opposite it. The heat is coming from the top vents so it is just probably the unit dissipating heat. This really didn't  bother me since it's next to my pc which probably puts out more heat but I was just shocked at the difference in heat output between the two units. My old unit you could touch without much discomfort, but the new one I wouldn't really want to leave my hand on it. Anyway,not sure to make of it and which unit is better just that one clicks more often and is cooler while the other clicks less but runs hot. The sound quality is pretty much the same between the two units. 

 

[estreeter]

In a cabinet it runs hot , on my open rack it doesn't really. Not sure why people freak out about equipment dissipating heat?

 
I guess its the fact that the component is usually on the desktop right in front of them rather than in a rack with adequate ventilation etc. I read something recently which said that most of the amps that are marketed as 'Class A' are simply Class A/B heavily biased into Class A and that the only way to know for sure is to touch the case after an hour or so. If you burn your hand, chances are you have a genuine Class A amp and can look forward to lower heating bills in Winter - if not, I'm afraid you've just fallen victim to marketing. I dont know how heavily Marantz have biased the amp in the DAC1 to Class A but clearly its considerably more than the dedicated headamp in my SA-14S1 - that runs cool for hour after hour. Much larger case and plenty of ventilation probably dont hurt either. 

 

[2leftears]

  I dont know how heavily Marantz have biased the amp in the DAC1 to Class A but clearly its considerably more than the dedicated headamp in my SA-14S1 - that runs cool for hour after hour. Much larger case and plenty of ventilation probably dont hurt either.

 
This could be another reason some HD-DAC1 run hotter than others, although one would hope that they would be able to ship the units with a reasonably consistent bias current.
 
If you don't mind invalidating the warranty, you can probably change it yourself.  The headphone amp seems to have a few trim-pots.  Now if only audio equipment came with a circuit diagram included in the box, like it used to be in the 80's

 

[2leftears]

In a cabinet it runs hot , on my open rack it doesn't really. Not sure why people freak out about equipment dissipating heat?

 
I think they are more worried about their equipment freaking out.
 
If it dissipates more heat than designed for (e.g. due to a manufacturing fault), service life may be drastically shortened.

 

[joeq70]

Help spend my money....

The Marantz HD-DAC1 really has me intrigued as a one box DAC - headphone amp upgrade solution; sound wise, what would I be giving up going the Marantz route vs. a Schiit Bifrost / Vahalla 2 (or Asgard 2)  -OR- suitable DAC + Project Ember pairing?

I know that if I go the Marantz route, I'll lose the option of tube rolling; which may be ok as I don't know if I really want to start playing hi-fi again. However, if the Marantz falls short on the sound side, I'll break out the valves.

Interestingly enough all the combos I'm considering come in about the $US 700-800 range.

Currently, I'm using HD600's, fed by a Maverick D1 from the PC; musical tastes are all over the board.

Thanks in advance.

I can't be a ton of help but I can say that I just listened to the Marantz with the HD600, and it sounded excellent!