[Ripper2860]

to people who confuse Ripper.

Which would be, like...everyone?

15 yard penalty for piling on!

 

[ProfFalkin]

 

[441879]

Today is a great day! 5 weeks ago my Lyr 3 died in a puff of smoke. Today it came back and is once again whispering sweet, sweet sounds in my ears!

Magni 3- back to the office with ya!

 

[Currawong]

So, a basic question:
How long warm-up time (from cold) does the Lyr3 and tube need for best sound?

Follow-up question:
And, how long does the tube itself need to warm-up before sounding its best (like after changing tube)?

Half an hour and five minutes respectively seems to do it for me, but I was wondering how long you guys here usually let it sit before listening?

Tubes should be about 10 minutes. Transformers seem to take the longest, so I tend to say an hour. There may be better sound after a few more than that, at least there has been with larger gear than the Lyr 3.

Anybody using the Modi Multibit with there LYR 3?

Yes. It's a nice combo -- very enjoyable, if you don't get much fine detail, but most music doesn't have much to begin with. I find the combo good for listening while working.

I have a suggestion for Jason and the team. I just purchased a new Lyr 3 as a straight amp since I already have a separate phono stage and a Modi 3. Therefore, I had no use for the currently available add-in cards.

Why not develop a simple "second RCA input" add-on card? I would have purchased that for my Lyr 3. This way, I would have been able to eliminate the need for a separate switcher (SYS), and simply used the Lyr to switch between the Modi 3 and my standalone phono preamp. Are there any technical limitations to adding a second set of unbalanced RCA inputs using an add-in card to the Lyr/Jot?

@Jason Stoddard Ping! I just know you'd love to add yet another SKU to the list.

 

[quimbo]

Looking for recommendations on powered speakers to hook up to the Lyr 3, budget of 400 to 500. Current setup for speakers is a Tweak City Gizmo class D amp. I use a Schiit SYS to switch between the Gizmo and the Lyr 3. Ideally the powered speakers would have Sub Woofer out so I can hook up my Onix Rocket UFW-10 Subwoofer.

Considering the AudioEngine A5+ Classics, I have seen conflicting reviews on these. Also considering KLIPSCH R-15PM

Thank you...q

 

[ProfFalkin]

Perhaps the speaker forum could help you better?

Edit: Looks like HF doesn't have one. I use the JBL 308 out of a Jotunheim, if that helps.

 

[quimbo]

Perhaps the speaker forum could help you better?

Edit: Looks like HF doesn't have one. I use the JBL 308 out of a Jotunheim, if that helps.

How is each connected? For the AudioEngine one speaker is connected to the other. Looking at pictures of the JBL these is not the same setup. Do you connect each speaker directly to the Jot?

 

[ProfFalkin]

Connected via 3 pin XLR cables from my Gumby to the Jot, and the same from the Jot to the JBLs.

 

[quimbo]

Connected via 3 pin XLR cables from my Gumby to the Jot, and the same from the Jot to the JBLs.

Thank you. Found a manual for the older LSR 308. I think I am going with the JBL. interesting that the Lyr 3 does not have XLR

 

[ProfFalkin]

Thank you. Found a manual for the older LSR 308. I think I am going with the JBL. interesting that the Lyr 3 does not have XLR

It's not a balanced amp. It is single ended.

 

[quimbo]

It's not a balanced amp. It is single ended.

Been ill for a few days and not thinking clearly.

 

[ProfFalkin]

Been ill for a few days and not thinking clearly.

No worries. I'm trying to answer while watching football. The length of my replies are usually longer

 

[bboris77]

Hi everyone. I just got my new Lyr 3 with a Tung Sol tube and am very happy to report that I cannot hear any pops when the amp is turned on or off. I hear a very soft relay click 40 seconds after the amp is turned on, and this is only if I put my ear right next to the amp. There is nothing heard through the headphones on any gain level, or volume setting. I even used my high sensitivity low impedance headphones and there was no pop.

I used to own the Vali 2 and there was definitely a semi loud pop on it approximately 15 seconds after turning it on. The Vali also has a low-level heater hum on the high gain with sensitive headphones. I can’t hear any such hum with the Lyr 3.

Another thing to report is how quiet the background is even with the volume turned all the way up on high gain. This is using the Modi 3. Super impressive for a high power tube amp. My area is close to an airport so quite often tube amps pick up the local radar interference which manifests itself as faint periodic clicking. I had to return the Mani because of it and sold my Bottlehead Crack because of the same issue as well. The Lyr 3 is dead silent. Perhaps it’s the fact that the tube sits so deep and is protected from RFI.

I did have to use the EB Tech HumX to isolate the amp from the ground that is being polluted by my Nvidia GPU that is connected to the same circuit. It was only audible on higher volumes than one would ever use, but just wanted to state it to help anyone that may have the same issue. I have had the same issue with any amp that uses a theee prong power cord. There are a few ways to solve this type of coil whine pollution to the ground:

1. Use the optical out on your PC.
2. Get a Gen 5 USB DAC which isolates the USB connection from the noisy ground.
3. Get an amp that has a 2 prong power bar, like the Magni 3 or Vali 2.
4. Get a HumX.
5. Get a new GPU, but that is a crapshoot because so many of them emit coil whine and pollute the shared ground.

Hope this helps anyone that is having similar issues.

 

[bcowen]

Hi everyone. I just got my new Lyr 3 with a Tung Sol tube and am very happy to report that I cannot hear any pops when the amp is turned on or off. I hear a very soft relay click 40 seconds after the amp is turned on, and this is only if I put my ear right next to the amp. There is nothing heard through the headphones on any gain level, or volume setting. I even used my high sensitivity low impedance headphones and there was no pop.

I used to own the Vali 2 and there was definitely a semi loud pop on it approximately 15 seconds after turning it on. The Vali also has a low-level heater hum on the high gain with sensitive headphones. I can’t hear any such hum with the Lyr 3.

Another thing to report is how quiet the background is even with the volume turned all the way up on high gain. This is using the Modi 3. Super impressive for a high power tube amp. My area is close to an airport so quite often tube amps pick up the local radar interference which manifests itself as faint periodic clicking. I had to return the Mani because of it and sold my Bottlehead Crack because of the same issue as well. The Lyr 3 is dead silent. Perhaps it’s the fact that the tube sits so deep and is protected from RFI.

I did have to use the EB Tech HumX to isolate the amp from the ground that is being polluted by my Nvidia GPU that is connected to the same circuit. It was only audible on higher volumes than one would ever use, but just wanted to state it to help anyone that may have the same issue. I have had the same issue with any amp that uses a theee prong power cord. There are a few ways to solve this type of coil whine pollution to the ground:

1. Use the optical out on your PC.
2. Get a Gen 5 USB DAC which isolates the USB connection from the noisy ground.
3. Get an amp that has a 2 prong power bar, like the Magni 3 or Vali 2.
4. Get a HumX.
5. Get a new GPU, but that is a crapshoot because so many of them emit coil whine and pollute the shared ground.

Hope this helps anyone that is having similar issues.

Good info, and thanks for sharing! A couple additional solutions below. Note that the Hydra is currently on sale.

 

[ProfFalkin]

The Hydra is a steal at that price!

I already have two, and don't need a third, unfortunately.