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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide
- Thread starter Dept_of_Alchemy
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spiderking31
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I have the Excalibur ones....not the ones with the yellow print, but with the two swords on them
TomNC
100+ Head-Fier
Hello. First time posting in this thread. Are there tube recommendations for LD MKiii that may extend the highs relative to the stock tubes. I have also used CV4010 and GE JAN 5654W (my favorite) tubes for extended periods of time. Common to these tubes, I dislike the clipping and somewhat fatigue highs when the LD drives my HD-650. To my ears, there is a similar tendency for LCD-3 too, though to a lesser extent due to the nature of the LCD-3.
Recently I bought a McIntosh 4100 receiver and have been pleasantly surprised at the much extended ranges of the 4100. It substantially improves both the high and low ends of the HD-650. I no longer experience the clipping or hot highs from the HD-650. Sound stage is also expanded.
Still I wonder I can get some tubes to open up the high frequencies of the LD. Thanks in advance for your input.
Recently I bought a McIntosh 4100 receiver and have been pleasantly surprised at the much extended ranges of the 4100. It substantially improves both the high and low ends of the HD-650. I no longer experience the clipping or hot highs from the HD-650. Sound stage is also expanded.
Still I wonder I can get some tubes to open up the high frequencies of the LD. Thanks in advance for your input.
Quote:
...
Recently I bought a McIntosh 4100 receiver and have been pleasantly surprised at the much extended ranges of the 4100. It substantially improves both the high and low ends of the HD-650. I no longer experience the clipping or hot highs from the HD-650. Sound stage is also expanded.
Still I wonder I can get some tubes to open up the high frequencies of the LD. Thanks in advance for your input.
Hello, sorry I'm just posting here to ask a question: Where does your MK3 come into play in the chain with your McIntosh 4100? Are you using that as a radio tuner then outputting it to your MK3, or using it the other way around as a 2nd amp connected in series after the MK3? I'm sure by sometime tomorrow you'll receive a better answer to your question - there are several experts on here
Also speaking of the experts on this thread; I have just a few more stupid questions for now please.
* I got an email from a seller of the MK3 and he said there are two types of tubes this uses, the EF95 and 6H6PI type (big and small ones I think). So if I were to want to change the sound of the amp, would I need to replace both the big and small sets of tubes, or just one set?
* I checked on page 77 and saw only about the EF95 tubes so I'm not quite sure where the 6H6PI would fit in.
* I have seen the photos from MikeLap, but I still don't have the foggiest clue what a "Jumper" is, or how to use tube mods? (my hunch is this is some sort of an adapter to make other tubes fit but I wouldn't know where to begin on using it or finding tubes that fit the adapter)
Thanks again!
MIKELAP
Headphoneus Supremus
Quote:
...
Recently I bought a McIntosh 4100 receiver and have been pleasantly surprised at the much extended ranges of the 4100. It substantially improves both the high and low ends of the HD-650. I no longer experience the clipping or hot highs from the HD-650. Sound stage is also expanded.
Still I wonder I can get some tubes to open up the high frequencies of the LD. Thanks in advance for your input.
Hello, sorry I'm just posting here to ask a question: Where does your MK3 come into play in the chain with your McIntosh 4100? Are you using that as a radio tuner then outputting it to your MK3, or using it the other way around as a 2nd amp connected in series after the MK3? I'm sure by sometime tomorrow you'll receive a better answer to your question - there are several experts on here
Also speaking of the experts on this thread; I have just a few more stupid questions for now please.
* I got an email from a seller of the MK3 and he said there are two types of tubes this uses, the EF95 and 6H6PI type (big and small ones I think). So if I were to want to change the sound of the amp, would I need to replace both the big and small sets of tubes, or just one set?
* I checked on page 77 and saw only about the EF95 tubes so I'm not quite sure where the 6H6PI would fit in.
* I have seen the photos from MikeLap, but I still don't have the foggiest clue what a "Jumper" is, or how to use tube mods? (my hunch is this is some sort of an adapter to make other tubes fit but I wouldn't know where to begin on using it or finding tubes that fit the adapter)
Thanks again!
To change the sound you can change power tubes and driver tubes but you will have to experiment because what sounds good to me might not sound so good to you depending on the gear you have and all .Thats why search function is very useful and reading the thread will help alot The EF95, EF92 types those are driver tubes (front tubes ) the 6H6P 6H30Pi ects. those are power tubes (back tubes) there's also tubes on page one you could try out but tubes on page 77 were found to be better and most of the time cheaper but ive tried all of these tubes at one point or another its part of the fun of tube amps trying different tubes and also collecting them . Thats why mordy says to start reading from the end if you want to try the best tubes weve found so far and most of the time to get to listen to those you will need atleast adapters that you can buy on ebay but some other tubes are not plugnplay you would need a power supply and other stuff The easiest i find so far to get very good sound is to use 6SN7 tubes as power tubes (back tubes) with (6SN7 to 6CG7 adapters ) and C3G tubes as driver tubes (front tubes) with adapters (C3G TO 6AK5) or you could also try 6HM5 made in yougoslavia tall bottles as driver tubes they are EF95 type tubes and they are plugnplay.these are pretty much the best tubes imo you can use with only adapters . Ok jumpers (picture#1 ) the arrows shows the jumpers those are situated under your amp so the board is downside up(pic#1) Theres one jumper per channel.You move jumpers by pulling on them,(black rectangular part) the jumpers rest usually on 3 pins . Whats written in the circle pic#1) is EF95(5654) OFF AND EF92 ON its the same on otherside or channel. so you would move your jumpers to its designated side .heres a look of those 3 pins (pic below) that the jumpers goes on On my amp if i would be using EF95 type tubes my jumpers would go on the 2 pins on the right side on each channel and for EF92 the 2 pins to left. on each channel Long jumpers are easier to change You can get them at DIGIKEY .Hope this helps.
PICTURE #1
6SN7 TO 6CG7 ADAPTERS
C3G TO 6AK5 adapters
6HM5 tall bottle
Shaffer
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Mike, I ordered the Yugo 6HM5 yesterday. Will I need adapters? And if so, which? Thanks again for your time.
MIKELAP
Headphoneus Supremus
Mike, I ordered the Yugo 6HM5 yesterday. Will I need adapters? And if so, which? Thanks again for your time.
No they are plugnplay in the driver position (front) and amp should be on EF95 setting
Shaffer
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No they are plugnplay in the driver position (front) and amp should be on EF95 setting
I genuinely appreciate the clear reply.
MIKELAP
Headphoneus Supremus
No they are plugnplay in the driver position (front) and amp should be on EF95 setting
I genuinely appreciate the clear reply.
Thanks .I just have to remember when i started with tube amps not so long ago that every little detail helped get me started
adtrance
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I've perused more Head Fi threads than I care to admit and the LD threads are consistently the most helpful. Thanks again to you guys for sharing your experience!
I also wanted to comment on the differences to me on the much vaunted 6HM5s and the Voskhods. I prefer the Voskhods over the 6HM5's because my listening tends to favor crispy highs, which the Voskhods have over the Ei tubes. Grado with the 6HM5's are very good while HD600 gives it a bit too much midrange bloom - to my ears. I can see how the Ei tubes are preferable to the Voskhods for a lot of folks because it does have a warmer, fatter sound.
I also wanted to comment on the differences to me on the much vaunted 6HM5s and the Voskhods. I prefer the Voskhods over the 6HM5's because my listening tends to favor crispy highs, which the Voskhods have over the Ei tubes. Grado with the 6HM5's are very good while HD600 gives it a bit too much midrange bloom - to my ears. I can see how the Ei tubes are preferable to the Voskhods for a lot of folks because it does have a warmer, fatter sound.
buldogge
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It appears that rewiring may well be your best option. Again, you want to tie pins 2 (grid 3) and 7 (cathode) of the C3g together and then connect them to pin 2 (cathode) in the 6AK5 socket.
This is the latest thing the German seller has written (Bing translated):
Hi, my offer stands "old design". This means that pins are not the same with the new design. See Internet. Important: pin 2 (anode) and 3 (g3/k) are reversed!
Old design C3G? New design C3G?...News to me!
http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_c3g_newi.html
Just treat 2 and 3 in reverse on the adaptors???
TIA
-Mark in St. Louis
gibosi
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This is the latest thing the German seller has written (Bing translated):
Hi, my offer stands "old design". This means that pins are not the same with the new design. See Internet. Important: pin 2 (anode) and 3 (g3/k) are reversed!
Old design C3G? New design C3G?...News to me!
http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_c3g_newi.html
Just treat 2 and 3 in reverse on the adaptors???
I knew about these "old" and "new" versions of the C3g, but for sure, it never occurred to me that these are what you have. I have never seen either of these versions in person, and always assumed that they were so rare, they would never popup on eBay...
Anyway, grid 3 and the cathode are strapped inside the tube, so you do not have to accomplish this strapping in your adapter. In your adapter, route either pin 3 or 7, but not both, to pin 2 (cathode) in the 6AK5 socket. And strap pin 4 (c3g g2) to pin 2 (c3g plate) and route to pin 5 (plate) in the 6AK5 socket. Grid 1 and the heaters are hooked up as before, and it should work.
buldogge
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I knew about these "old" and "new" versions of the C3g, but for sure, it never occurred to me that these are what you have. I have never seen either of these versions in person, and always assumed that they were so rare, they would never popup on eBay...
Anyway, grid 3 and the cathode are strapped inside the tube, so you do not have to accomplish this strapping in your adapter. In your adapter, route either pin 3 or 7, but not both, to pin 2 (cathode) in the 6AK5 socket. And strap pin 4 (c3g g2) to pin 2 (c3g plate) and route to pin 5 (plate) in the 6AK5 socket. Grid 1 and the heaters are hooked up as before, and it should work.
Thanx Gibosi!...I will test with some flying wires first...
-Mark
buldogge
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I knew about these "old" and "new" versions of the C3g, but for sure, it never occurred to me that these are what you have. I have never seen either of these versions in person, and always assumed that they were so rare, they would never popup on eBay...
Anyway, grid 3 and the cathode are strapped inside the tube, so you do not have to accomplish this strapping in your adapter. In your adapter, route either pin 3 or 7, but not both, to pin 2 (cathode) in the 6AK5 socket. And strap pin 4 (c3g g2) to pin 2 (c3g plate) and route to pin 5 (plate) in the 6AK5 socket. Grid 1 and the heaters are hooked up as before, and it should work.
Hey gibosi...That seems to do it! Thanx for all your help...much appreciated!!
-Mark
gibosi
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Great news!
By the way, do you also have the "newest" version of the C3g, the one the rest of us have? If so, it would be interesting to know how the "new" ones and the "newest" ones compare sonically.
By the way, do you also have the "newest" version of the C3g, the one the rest of us have? If so, it would be interesting to know how the "new" ones and the "newest" ones compare sonically.
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