[TrollDragon]

The King of the beyer's for sure! I hope to hear a pair one of these days.
 
You didn't chop the end off of them for direct wire into the MK IV did you?

 

[Acapella11]

  Hi guys.
 
Further confirmation that our humble LDs are capable of truly outstanding results, once you get into C3g(S) + 6AS7G/6080 land...viz... my Beyer T1s have finally arrived and I just cannot believe the sound I am getting from these babies (and the LD, of course!!). And this is with them straight out of the box. I really thought my HD650s with pure silver cable were wringing nearly every last drop from my modded MKIV SE...HOW WRONG can one be, lol?! These T1s must be taking the LD up into very serious amp territory indeed...not just one level or two, but many!!
 
What they will bring to the Feliks-Audio 'Elise', which hopefully should be winging its way to me towards the end of next week (

), I can't begin to imagine (unless LD + C3gS is equal to the Elise minus C3gS - in which case I'd be MAKING the C3gS work in her, whatever it takes lol!).
 
I cannot overstate how amazing these T1s are already - they really have blown the 650s RIGHT out of the water...and that's before any burn-in (mind you, they're a darned sight more expensive! But if you can get a decent(?) price on them I think they are worth EVERY penny...no wonder Skylab rates them the King of dynamic HPs. (If you don't believe me, just ask my MKIV SE lol!!

).

 
I have heard them too, on an Audio-GD Master 9 and they are amazing headphones.

 

[Acapella11]

Here are impressions of (only) two 6SN7 tubes, used as power tubes and compared to Reflektor 6N30P-DR (1983) power tubes after the 6SN7 tubes had their burn in time of certainly over 30 h each. It is a humble selection, I admit
 
1. Raytheon JAN-CRP 6SN7WGT, brown base

 
 
2. Sylvania JAN-CHS 6SN7WGT, brown base

 
 
3. Reflector 6N30P-DR, 1983

 
 
Headphones: Sennheiser HD800 /w Draugh v2
DAC: MDAC, Minumum Phase, connected to LD MKIII via Charleston Cable Company UPOCC cable
Power: PowerInspired AG500
 
6N30P-DR: Sound signature is on the brighter side, energetic, very good imaging, very controlled and articulated bass, “good sized” stage, very good detail retrieval, highest tendency to cause sibilance from these tubes
Raytheon: Darker sounding tube, very good imaging and more bass bias than the DR, more controlled bass than the Sylvania, largest and deepest stage, wettest tube, most details, least sibilance, sweet mids, refined, natural, blacker background than Sylvania. Works well once you got used to it, kind of like a LCD 2 lol.
Sylvania: Brightness of signature is between Raytheon and DR, “only” good imaging on a high level though, because it doesn’t sound as “clean” as the Raytheon, bass more bloated than the other two tubes, not as deep stage, warmer than the 6N30P-DR and more bass bias, more dynamic sounding than the Raytheon. On first impression more balanced than Raytheon because more treble is presented but the Raytheons sound fine in their own way and not rolled off. Transparent mids, not as “clean” as DRs.
Conclusion: Now, would I just give up the DRs for one of these 6SN7 power tubes, totally ignoring the price ofc . No. The DR produces a very energetic quality sound, different but very nice in its own rights. Listening to a pair of headphones on the brighter side (HD800) means the Raytheon tubes match very well. For now, I would keep the DRs as a reference.
 
Remark: As the sound may still change, or my perception of it, I may need to revise these impressions later
 
Edit: I recommend the combination HD800/C3GS/Raytheon JAN CRP 6SN7WGT, brown base: holographic, silky, smooth and revealing. No fatigue whatsoever and lots of details.

 

[hypnos1]

  The King of the beyer's for sure! I hope to hear a pair one of these days.
 
You didn't chop the end off of them for direct wire into the MK IV did you?

 
Don't tempt me now, TD! 

....but have no fear, I need them to go in the Feliks Elise lol! (And I have NO intention of possibly spoiling these wonderful babies - even though it brought DEFINITE improvement to the 650s in the LD!!).
 
Sleep sound, my friend...

 

[i luvmusic 2]

  Hi guys.
 
Further confirmation that our humble LDs are capable of truly outstanding results, once you get into C3g(S) + 6AS7G/6080 land...viz... my Beyer T1s have finally arrived and I just cannot believe the sound I am getting from these babies (and the LD, of course!!). And this is with them straight out of the box. I really thought my HD650s with pure silver cable were wringing nearly every last drop from my modded MKIV SE...HOW WRONG can one be, lol?! These T1s must be taking the LD up into very serious amp territory indeed...not just one level or two, but many!!
 
What they will bring to the Feliks-Audio 'Elise', which hopefully should be winging its way to me towards the end of next week (

), I can't begin to imagine (unless LD + C3gS is equal to the Elise minus C3gS - in which case I'd be MAKING the C3gS work in her, whatever it takes lol!).
 
I cannot overstate how amazing these T1s are already - they really have blown the 650s RIGHT out of the water...and that's before any burn-in (mind you, they're a darned sight more expensive! But if you can get a decent(?) price on them I think they are worth EVERY penny...no wonder Skylab rates them the King of dynamic HPs. (If you don't believe me, just ask my MKIV SE lol!!

).

Congrats!

 

[i luvmusic 2]

 

  The King of the beyer's for sure! I hope to hear a pair one of these days.
 
You didn't chop the end off of them for direct wire into the MK IV did you?

 
Don't tempt me now, TD! 

....but have no fear, I need them to go in the Feliks Elise lol! (And I have NO intention of possibly spoiling these wonderful babies - even though it brought DEFINITE improvement to the 650s in the LD!!).
 
Sleep sound, my friend...

If i were you i would chopped it..........

 

 

[hypnos1]

  If i were you i would chopped it..........

 

Luv you too, baby!! 

 

[i luvmusic 2]

I can't remember which one of you guys removed the metal shield on C3g.What is  the metal shield for?without the metal shield is it sensitive to noise? 

 

[mordy]

Here is a picture of a C3g with the shield taken off. My assumption is that the shield helps for RF noise. Since this tube does not have much of a glow, taking off the shield does not add much in aesthetics.
 
The loctal base is crimped to the shield and not attached to the tube. Using the tube without the shield necessitates gluing the base to the glass envelope. Given the very fragile nature of this tube it is best to avoid tinkering too much with it.
 
 

 
The above tube cracked from normal tube rolling. In order to avoid the tube from breaking, it is necessary to loosen up the tube socket pins and only insert or remove the tube straight down or up, without any side to side movement.

 

[sgbwill2]

  Here is a picture of a C3g with the shield taken off. My assumption is that the shield helps for RF noise. Since this tube does not have much of a glow, taking off the shield does not add much in aesthetics.
 
The loctal base is crimped to the shield and not attached to the tube. Using the tube without the shield necessitates gluing the base to the glass envelope. Given the very fragile nature of this tube it is best to avoid tinkering too much with it.
 
 

 
The above tube cracked from normal tube rolling. In order to avoid the tube from breaking, it is necessary to loosen up the tube socket pins and only insert or remove the tube straight down or up, without any side to side movement.

I believe c3g's were meant to be used in very noisy environments and to reduce noise distortion/microphonics the shields were added. As we arent using them in a noisy environments its fine to use them without the shields. Just remember to keep using the metal base. Personally I didn't glue the base to the tubes and just slotted them into the adapters together and I have had no problems. I would rather look at the tube glow than the ugly metal sheaths though so I am happy .

 

[i luvmusic 2]

  Here is a picture of a C3g with the shield taken off. My assumption is that the shield helps for RF noise. Since this tube does not have much of a glow, taking off the shield does not add much in aesthetics.
 
The loctal base is crimped to the shield and not attached to the tube. Using the tube without the shield necessitates gluing the base to the glass envelope. Given the very fragile nature of this tube it is best to avoid tinkering too much with it.
 
 

 
The above tube cracked from normal tube rolling. In order to avoid the tube from breaking, it is necessary to loosen up the tube socket pins and only insert or remove the tube straight down or up, without any side to side movement.

THANKS! for the Info.
I will install a loctal socket on a plate/box instead of adapter this way i don't need to removed the tube once inserted to the  socket.The box will be beside the MK III similar to the one in this picture.Incase i want to used the tube for something else at least i can unplug the cables and it's just a matter of re-routing the cable the tube always stays inplace i don't want to remove them once inserted to avoid damage,They are not that cheap.

 

[ToTje]

I'm thinking about trying the Voshkod 6ZH1P tubes out like Dept_of_Alchemy recommended in his 5th post.
 
I guess these must be them: (Click)
 
I have absolutely no experience with tubes, but I see some vague similarities with the one I just ordered: (Click)
 
Have I been lucky and did I accidentally buy really good tubes for a really low price, or are neither of these 2 the real deal and shouldn't I be so greedy and just spend a little more for for instance these?

 

[i luvmusic 2]

So it doesn't hurt to ground the shield?

 

[i luvmusic 2]

I will skipped those i will get a 6HM5 Yugo instead.

 

[gibosi]

  I'm thinking about trying the Voshkod 6ZH1P tubes out like Dept_of_Alchemy recommended in his 5th post.
 
I guess these must be them: (Click)
 
I have absolutely no experience with tubes, but I see some vague similarities with the one I just ordered: (Click)
 
Have I been lucky and did I accidentally buy really good tubes for a really low price, or are neither of these 2 the real deal and shouldn't I be so greedy and just spend a little more for for instance these?

 
They look the same to me. And while I don't remember where I bought mine, but I paid only $15 for a pair, $3 for the tubes and $12 for shipping to the US. $23 for a pair plus $12 for shipping is way too much. You did good.