[Impulsive]

very nice danska!
 
I just dont know if i can use 6H30Pi because my amp still didnt arrived and it is from 2007 so dont know if it has v1.0 or v2.0 circuit.
Thanks for your impressions
Maybe i will end up with your confing, who knows?
Now i have two sets on the way, i will try them and post here

 

[mordy]

Hi Danska,
 
I was surprised to hear that your Sylvania tubes had a crowded soundstage. Just to make sure, are they the Sylvania JAN 5654 tubes with Black Plate and Halo getter with stock numbers 5960/DSA900?
I am sure that Sylvania made many different tubes over the years. The ones referenced here are military issue and identical to their Gold Series but not with the gold plated pins, and thus much cheaper on the marketplace.
Other Sylvania tubes I have do not sound as good.

 

[hrbballman]

I run mine with the Amperex. They are hard to find but you should consider them....not that i've heard the mullards....just  throwing in one more option for you to have to decide on.

 

[mordy]

Amperex tubes have an excellent reputation. If they are made in Gt. Britain, I believe that they were made by Mullard.
I have two such tubes, and they look the same as the Mullards.

 

[PanamaRed]

Just ordered a MK III. Looking very forward to rolling with this amp. Now to start from page 1 and see what tubes i'm going to buy

 

[Impulsive]

Quote:

Just ordered a MK III. Looking very forward to rolling with this amp. Now to start from page 1 and see what tubes i'm going to buy

You don't have to.
Just check one page back.
mordy posted there basically summary of whole thread.

 

[PanamaRed]

Ohh very nice. Thanks mordy and Impulsive.
 
Quote:

You don't have to.
Just check one page back.
mordy posted there basically summary of whole thread.

 

 

[Impulsive]

Quote:

Ohh very nice. Thanks mordy and Impulsive.
 


 

All credit goes to mordy

 

[danska]

Quote:

Hi Danska,
 
I was surprised to hear that your Sylvania tubes had a crowded soundstage. Just to make sure, are they the Sylvania JAN 5654 tubes with Black Plate and Halo getter with stock numbers 5960/DSA900?
I am sure that Sylvania made many different tubes over the years. The ones referenced here are military issue and identical to their Gold Series but not with the gold plated pins, and thus much cheaper on the marketplace.
Other Sylvania tubes I have do not sound as good.

Mordy,
 
The box reads JAN 5654... DSA 900-67-C-9983. I purchased them here:
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290566098019&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
 
 
The one thing I would say is that mine both have a blue going on from the start. Not sure if that is an issue in this particular case, as I thought that generally indicated a leak? Like I said I'm a noob with tubes and their tech, but I've been a dedicated audiophile for about six years and have owned some speakers that can throw an impressive stage. I'm noticing a bit more height to musicians with the current set-up I'm using. Once I fully know these are broken in and I can break in the other EF92's I'm getting, I'll switch back over and report again.
 
I just visited Zu Audio yesterday. It was fantastic and the guys there were great, I picked up a couple of sets of B-stock Mission RCA's, and I couldn't leave without getting a Zu Mobius out of them!!! So know I have a new cable to break in as well. Apparently the mobius can still be had (which I did not know) but they sell a lot to places like Japan. So I'm groving to a new Senn cable which I thought I wouldn't be doing any time soon! I'll show you guys some pics of that. The machined connectors are pretty awesome!
 

 

[mordy]

Hi Danska!
 
 
Looks like the Sylvania tubes you have are the same type that I have. Since you have been an audiophile for a number of years we have to trust your ears, so the conclusion is that tubes will react differently to different equipment and sound differently.
Personally, I have no idea why some tubes produce a wider sound stage than others, and why some tubes have better sound than others. It is all trial and error, which makes it fun to try out different tubes and combinations of tubes. Nevertheless, I still think that it is possible to reach some kind of consensus on which tubes are among the best ones.
I have a set of two driver tubes that are great, but one is a re-branded tube, and all the markings are completely worn off on the other tube, so I don't even know what they are!  I can guess who the manufacturers are by comparing the look to other known tubes, but it is still only a guess.
BTW, there is nothing wrong in putting in two different driver tubes, as long as the tubes are from the same family. You could A/B the tubes if you have a balance control in the system of L and R. Ideally you would try this with a good mono recording where you can switch each side to get the sound coming from both channels when you are listening.
Cables is a different can of worms, and I just stick to what I have, which are plain and inexpensive cables. Years ago I bought a power management outlet strip with various filters for the electrical noise, and it clearly improved the sound. The sound also can be improved with a dedicated line to your equipment, and by listening late at night, when there is less electrical interference from all kinds of motors and gadgets.

 

[britt2001b]

Well now that I'm back from taking the kids to Disney World, I hate to say, I have picked up my addiction (tube rolling) where I left off. This has got to end, but it sure is enjoyable! 
 
I purchased the Mullard CV4015's (M8161) and they really kicked in at about 25 hrs. They are performing exactly as David (from Little Dot) described on his forums "very detailed while maintaining warmth." These do provide the best "tube sound" from all that I have sampled. And as David said they are very warm. I experience no ear fatigue after long listening sessions at a higher volume than usual. I find that the center signal (usually the vocals) are really pushed forward with a nice, airy quality. As a matter of fact, I think some would describe this as a "breath of life" type of sound. They don't have quite the sound stage and "crystal, clear highs" as the Sylvania JAN 5654's but they are quite satisfying to listen to. 
 
I'm finding that I could be happy with alternating between the Sylvania's and the 8161 Mullards, but what a hassle it is to change the jumpers. My needle-nose pliers were too large to fit within the openings so I had to use tweezers. I'm sure after changing the jumpers multiple times, odds are, that I will drop a jumper within the unit at some time.
 
So, for now, I think I will enjoy the nice, classic sound of the Mullards. Unless, should I ... (no, no, no, someone stop me!) ...try the Mullard M8161 "large shields" as I see from previous posts that these are a step above the "small shields."
 
 

 

[mordy]

Hi Brit 2001b,
 
I just ordered a pair of the 8161s (EF92). Could you explain to me the difference between small shield and large shield?
 
It is true that tube rolling can make you a little crazy. The best situation is when you find tubes that make you forget about analyzing the highs and the lows and the mid range, and you just enjoy the music. But maybe a different highly recommended set of tubes will make you enjoy the music more.....

 

[KMASCII]

 
Quote:

Does anyone have experience of Western Electric 403Bs (late 60's / early 70's)? Is GBP 10.20 each a fair price?

For the type of sound that I was looking for the WE 403B's have turned out to be my favorite purchase so far. I've used TungSol and GE 5654 & 5654W's, including the 5 stars, Mullard M8161, Sylvania & WE 6AK5 & 6AK5W. The 403B's I bought are from the early eighties though. The type of sound I like is a bit less punchy than what others might like. For my tastes, I've found that other tubes were a bit treble heavy to me. I listen mainly with HD650's. The 403B's are certainly less punchy but not at all muddy or less defined. I find they lose nothing in their detail. In fact, I find that because the treble is less pronounced (more controlled) this helps with imaging. So I like their balance.
 
I probably paid $30-$35 for the unmatched pair, w/o shipping. But, that's my particular threshold for buying tubes... $40ish for a pair. So the 10.20 GBP seems fair to me for an older tube. The one concern I've read in other forums is one about the 403B's reliability. One post I read said it can be prone to failure. But I guess time will tell. However the lower output of the 403B's is suppose to mean they last longer than their sibling 403A's, which have a higher power requirement. I haven't heard the 403A's. But, also from reading the posts, others worry that the increased power requirements could introduce distortion being that these tubes are on the driver (input) side. Never heard the 403A's to compare the two though.
 
Edit: Just another thought. I don't know if there are differences in plate structures and years of production with the 403B's. I'll check mine when I get a chance... away from home right now. Also, compared to the EF91's I've tried, with the 403B's there's a bit more definition in the bass and midrange.
 
Edit: The 403B's I have are from the early 70's actually, not the 80's as I mentioned, sorry. I just noticed that there are differences in the getter shape, round and square. This likely has no bearing on the sound though. But the plates and mica appear to be the same structurally.

 

[mordy]

Just goes to show that YMMV (your mileage may vary). If you think that some tubes produce too much treble, try to change the power tubes to 6N6P. These are cheap, (way below your buying threshold), and could tame the sibilance.
I have WE403 tubes from the early 50's and late 50's, and while they have a very detailed presentation, the Mullards suit me better with more warmth and bass.

 

[Impulsive]

Mine LD MK III back from 2007 came with stock GE5654 and 6N6P-I and it's pretty much good combo.
Just wait that new tubes arrive and i can start comparing and rolling.