[morfic]

small:   http://cgi.ebay.com/CV4015-M8161-EF92-9D6-MULLARD-QDD-TUBE-VALVE-NOS-E-PAIR-/390210592827?pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item5ada5d203b
 
large:    http://cgi.ebay.com/Mullard-M8161-EF92-CV4015-Little-Dot-Amplifier-Tube-/160387420527?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2557d5d16f
 
but they both violate the $8/tube max rule we should all adhere to.

 

[AuxIn]

I found these here as the cheapest,
but the guy don´t tell me if he ships  to germany
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390168415751&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

[korpijaakko]

Much obliged, sir. My presumption was correct after all. I'll wait for a NOS matched pair to pop up.
 
Quote:

small:   http://cgi.ebay.com/CV4015-M8161-EF92-9D6-MULLARD-QDD-TUBE-VALVE-NOS-E-PAIR-/390210592827?pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item5ada5d203b
 
large:    http://cgi.ebay.com/Mullard-M8161-EF92-CV4015-Little-Dot-Amplifier-Tube-/160387420527?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2557d5d16f
 
but they both violate the $8/tube max rule we should all adhere to.

 

[morfic]

Matched is code for "you pay me way more money than this old crap is worth, but i take your $$ anyways, thanks bro" for the high $$ you could afford a few fun tubes and realize, while you can hear differences from tube type and brand to the next, you will never notice any imbalance, since they are not there. looked at too many sets w/o an imbalance to go out and pay $40 for 2 when i can buy a whole box full of fun for less.
Not my opinion, a fact. But since expensive == good in all audio questions, this money machine will never dry out for them.
 

 

[korpijaakko]

So what you're saying is that these tubes are sort of "pre-matched" at the factory meaning they were manufactured within close tolerances.
I personally don't mind paying a couple of extra dollars for a service that guarantees their health & good match. I wouldn't call these tubes old crap but you're right about the overpricing, $20/piece is probably too much.

 

[Max F]

Most of my driver tubes are slightly inbalanced for each pair.
 
I don't mind.  I usually pick the one that's slightly stronger for my right ear - since this ear hears slightly less that the left.
 
I mark the tube boxes either R or L.

 

[morfic]

Quote:

So what you're saying is that these tubes are sort of "pre-matched" at the factory meaning they were manufactured within close tolerances.
I personally don't mind paying a couple of extra dollars for a service that guarantees their health & good match. I wouldn't call these tubes old crap but you're right about the overpricing, $20/piece is probably too much.

Pretty much what i meant.
If someone pulled tubes and gave me used ones tested, that'd be nice, to know used but still got life, not if they are  "matched"

 

[mordy]

Found out from David of Little Dot that you can mix two tubes from the same family, i.e. EF92 tubes from different brands. Instead of waiting 10-15 minutes after you shut off the amp so that the capacitors can discharge, I put in two different tubes and play a mono recording. Then I can A/B the tubes just by turning the balance knob right or left. Found this an easy way to hear differences between tubes. Anybody else tried this method?
 
I agree with the posts that the tubes should not cost too much ($8.00 rule), and that there definitively is a myth that more expensive is better. A proof of this myth is that the tubes that are priced higher on E-Bay sell better than the medium priced ones of the same variety. (To check it out, go on E-Bay and look up something you are interested in. Then find on the left a check box for Completed Listings. Click on it, and you can see in green the dollar amounts of the items that sold. This gives you a good idea of the current market price. The numbers in red will show what did not sell - also useful info at times.)

 

[luisev]

Quote:

Found out from David of Little Dot that you can mix two tubes from the same family, i.e. EF92 tubes from different brands. Instead of waiting 10-15 minutes after you shut off the amp so that the capacitors can discharge, I put in two different tubes and play a mono recording. Then I can A/B the tubes just by turning the balance knob right or left. Found this an easy way to hear differences between tubes. Anybody else tried this method?

 
That's an interesting idea... thanks for the info...
 

 

[korpijaakko]

Quote:

 
That's an interesting idea... thanks for the info...
 

I liked this too.

 

[Max F]

Good stuff mordy!  Thanks for sharing.

 

[Sjonnie]

Wow, I replaced my stock driver tubes with the EF95 CV4010.
And I must say, wow, I can hear the difference already. Better mids, the overall sound is also a bit different, which I like (could use a change after a year with the stock).
 
I was thinking about upgrading my amp, but playing around with tubes is much more satisfying, cheaper and fun! I am now loving the LD MKIII even more.
 
I bet after some more usage (burnin?) the tubes will sound even better, tuberolling opened a whole new world for my amp, it's so damn easy (especially with this great thread). Simply amazing.
 
edit: Ok, I dont like the sound after a few days of use, I guess I was just surprised that I got a difference sound, that's all. Bass not tight enough and the overall sound is too airy. I switched back to the stock tubes.

 

[luisev]

What brand tubes?

 

[mordy]

Just bought the CV4010 tubes which should be made by Mullard. The ones I have come in a plain white box labeled Valve Electronic CV4010 5654/6AK5W/6096 SDA.
The tube itself has the four different model designations as above plus the letters (in white) SD-D-SDA. Underneath it says in grey letters LD4.
Would appreciate it if somebody can decode the letter designations and the date code. (Factory, country of origin, date of manufacture)

 

[Frank I]

I have two Mullard CV 4010 new in box I have no use for as I sold my Little Dot MK11 they are unused and Iw ill sell the pair for 25.00 shipped. Anyone interested PM me